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This is always a fun and very well produced event, even if Wine & Spirits Magazine isn’t exactly transparent as to how they arrive at their annual list of “100 best wineries.” No Bordeaux makes the cut, so Petrus and Lafite aren’t among the top 100. There’s some Burgundy represented, but no DRC or Leroy in the “top 100.” Also no Gaja or Giacosa, no Vega Sicilia or Vogüé, and definitely no d’Yquem. That’s not to say there aren’t a lot of top producers represented each year, like Beaucastel, Chapoutier, Ridge and Shafer this year, and Krug and Antinori in prior years. But the “top 100″ also includes a lot of just very good producers who wouldn’t likely fall on most wine lovers’ top 100 lists.
Officially, Wine & Spirits claims that, to arrive at their annual top 100 wineries, they first “start with all the wineries that earned at least three strong recommendations” from their stable of critics who attend their blindtastings during the year. Then they “look at a series of stats: percentage of wines recommended, top score, number of high scores, all compared to others in their competitive set.” It’s the last phrase that makes W&S’s standards particularly opaque–how do they divide up wineries into “competitive sets”? From the fact that all 100 top wineries are represented at this thing each year, willingness to send wine and pour at this event is obviously part of the criteria, and lack of such willingness must tend to eliminate a lot of potential top wineries. Like many of the lesser entertainment industry award shows, it appears that you must be on hand to “win.” At any rate, I’d say 50 to 60% of the wineries at these annual events are excellent to very good producers, while at least 10 to 20% just seem like filler. These are minor quibbles though, given that the tasting itself is an excellent event, and one can easily spend the event’s two hours tasting fabulous wines from great and very good producers, including many that aren’t usually represented in tastings in these parts. And I like the fact that Greece and Portugal are well represented at these events, and that favorites of mine like Chateau Musar and Royal Tokaji were on hand this year. So cheers to Wine & Spirits for again assembling a terrific event. I highly recommend it as one of the best wine events of the year. I only wish it lasted a little longer (or, at least, that I’d been able to attend the earlier, trade portion this year as I did last year, when my schedule permitted me to get away for it, unlike this year). The event also features terrific food from a number of San Francisco area restaurants and food purveyors, which this year included Hog Island Oysters, Heirloom Cafe, Barbacco, Hog & Rocks, Saison, Hibiscus and Socola Chocolatier. The great food, together with some musical entertainment during the evening, contributes to making this a festive and fun event.
In the little over two hours I had this year, I strategically went after, first, all the French producers (except for most of the Champagne producers, whose wines I get to taste at other events this time of year), then most of the Spanish, Italian and Portuguese producers, as well as Aussies and Northwest U.S. producers I don’t often get a chance to taste. Given my limited time, I didn’t make it to the Greek producers I already know well, or most of the California producers I get other chances to taste. I also passed by the German and New York State producers, as I had tasted most of them at this event the prior year. Each producer typically pours two wines (sometimes two of their wines that received top scores from Wine & Spirits that year, but often something completely different). Several producers were pouring a third wine this year, and a few were only pouring one (or were down to one wine by the time I got to them).
Moving at top speed, for me, and on a mission to get through my “must taste” list, I managed to sample 84 wines from 42 of the 100 producers. The standout producers of that group for me, based on whether I scored any of the wines they poured 92+ pts. or more, were Burgundy producers Antonin Guyon, Bouchard, Faiveley and Fèvre; producers from other parts of France–Dagueneau, Chidaine and Ogier; Italian producers Ceretto, Massolino and Vietti; and the following single producers from the following five countries: Chateau Musar (Lebanon), Niepoort (Portugal), Bodegas Roda (Spain), Royal Tokaji (Hungary) and Shafer (the U.S.). It was a particular treat for me to meet Dirk Niepoort’s sister, who was pouring for Niepoort at this event, Verena. I tasted some good wines from Australia and South America, but nothing that merited more than 92 points. The only new producer to me in the foregoing list was Bodegas Roda. This producer was founded by Mario Rotllant and his wife, Carmen Daurella, in 1987, when they arrived in Rioja. Their aim was to search out old vineyards, particularly in Rioja Alta, and to introduce some more refined winemaking techniques to the area, such as Rioja’s first sorting tables. They produce two primary wines–Roda and Roda I Reservas–which are blends of what they initially vinify in separate lots from the 150 acres they own, and the 100 acres they source from under contract. I rated the ’04 Roda I 93 points, and thought it was easily the best wine from any of the Spanish producers at this event.
My top three wines of the evening, with ratings up to 95 points, were the gorgeous ’99 Royal Toakji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Mézes Maly, Bouchard’s ’08 Chevalier-Montrachet, and Domaine William Fèvre’s ’08 Chablis Les Clos. These latter two white Burgs, along with other ’08 white Burgs I’ve tasted so far, are pointing to an excellent vintage for white Burgundy (I’ve been much less impressed by ’08 for red Burgs so far). For more details on what I tasted, see the complete tasting notes below.
Achával-Ferrer Andrew Will - 2007 Andrew Will Champoux Vineyard - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills
Berry, black fruit, plum, herbal nose; berry, black fruit, plum, herbal palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
- 2007 Andrew Will Two Blondes Vineyard - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
Oak, berry, black fruit nose; oak, berry, black fruit palate; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
Antonin Guyon - 2008 Antonin Guyon Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Lovely lemon, floral, vanilla nose; tasty, rich, tight, lemon, pear, floral palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
- 2008 Antonin Guyon Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Oak, raspberry, cherry nose; ripe red fruit, cherry, oak palate; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
- 2008 Antonin Guyon Savigny-lès-Beaune - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
Lovely sous bois, roses nose; balanced, tasty, tart cherry, roses palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
Balbas - 2003 Bodegas Balbas Ribera del Duero Alitus Reserva - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
Oak, dill nose; tart cherry, maturing, dill palate; medium-plus finish (75% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot) (90 pts.)
- 2005 Bodegas Balbas Ribera del Duero Reserva - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
Baked berry, maturing nose; tart berry, dried berry palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (90% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) (91 pts.)
Bond - 2006 BOND Quella - USA, California, Napa Valley
Berry, vanilla nose; rich berry, plum, vanilla palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
- 2006 BOND Pluribus - USA, California, Napa Valley
Rich berry, cassis nose; plush cassis, berry palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
Bouchard - 2008 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Clos St. Landry Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Vanilla, citrus, apple nose; tart apple, ripe apple, lemon, mineral palate; medium finish (90 pts.)
- 2008 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Domaine - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Poised, cream, lemon cream nose; delicious, lemon, cream, vanilla palate; medium-plus finish (94 pts.)
Cadence - 2007 Cadence Bel Canto Cara Mia Vineyard - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Red Mountain
Red plum, berry nose; plush red plum, berry palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (62% Cab Franc, 31% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot) (90 pts.)
- 2007 Cadence Camerata Cara Mia Vineyard - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Red Mountain
Cassis nose; rich cassis palate with depth; medium-plus finish (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% each Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot) (92 pts.)
- 2007 Cadence Tapteil - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Red Mountain
Olive, herbal, red fruit nose; cassis, plum, herbal palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot) (90 pts.)
Ceretto - 2004 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Bricco Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Oak, tart cherry nose; tart cherry, tart berry, spice palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
- 2005 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Brunate - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Nice tart cherry, spice, dried cherry nose; tart cherry, spice, dried cherry palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
Chehalem - 2007 Chehalem Chardonnay Ian's Reserve Stoller Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
Apple nose; simple, apple, pear palate; medium finish 86+ pts. (86 pts.)
- 2007 Chehalem Pinot Noir Reserve - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
Nice tart cherry, herbal nose; tart cherry, herbal, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
Chidaine - 2007 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Bournais - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
Apple, oats, baked apple nose; tasty, tart apple, lime cream palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
- 2008 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos Habert - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
Nice lime cream, green apple nose; lime cream, green apple palate with depth; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
Dagueneau - 2008 Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé
Tart grapefruit, green pea nose; tart grapefruit, lemon grass palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
- 2007 Didier Dagueneau Pur Sang - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé
Tart orange, green orange nose; tasty, tart lime, green orange palate; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
d'Arenberg - 2008 d'Arenberg The Wild Pixie - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
Black fruit, berry nose; black fruit, berry, simple palate; medium finish (88 pts.)
- 2007 d'Arenberg Shiraz The Dead Arm - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
Big black fruit, berry nose; concentrated, black fruit, berry, tar palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
Drew - 2007 Drew Family Cellars Syrah Potato Patch Perli Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino Ridge
Deep black fruit, berry, herbal nose; deep black fruit, berry, herbal palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
- 2008 Drew Family Cellars Syrah Valenti Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
Big black fruit, dried berry nose; big black fruit, dried berry, garrigue palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
Drouhin 
Faiveley - 2008 Faiveley Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Tart citrus, tart apple nose; tasty, tart lemon, cream, apple palate; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
- 2008 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Strawberry, red fruit, mineral nose; tasty, tart red fruit, floral palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
Fèvre - 2008 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Rich lemon, white flower nose; oak, lemon, citrus, mineral palate; medium finish (91 pts.)
- 2008 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Tight lemon, acacia nose; tight, poised, tart citrus, lemon, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts. (93 pts.)
Fidelitas - 2007 Fidelitas Red Mountain - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Red Mountain
Poised, cassis nose; cassis, red berry palate with depth; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc) (91 pts.)
- 2007 Fidelitas Boushey Vineyard - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
Nice herbal, plum nose; herbal, plum, sage palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (53% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc) (90 pts.)
Henschke - 2007 Henschke Riesling Julius - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
Apple, nectarine nose; odd tart apple, citrus palate; medium finish 85+ pts. (85 pts.)
- 2006 Henschke Euphonium Keyneton Estate - Australia, South Australia, Barossa
Oak, berry, cassis nose; tasty, cassis, red berry, berry palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
Jaboulet - 2007 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage Blanc Chevalier de Sterimberg - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Apple, baked apple, spice nose; tight, tart apple, spice palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
- 2007 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
Ripe cherry, oak, berry nose; ripe cherry, oak, berry palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
Jadot King Estate L'Ecole No. 41 - 2007 L'Ecole No. 41 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
Berry, black fruit nose; berry, black fruit palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (90 pts.)
- 2007 L'Ecole No. 41 Perigee Estate Seven Hills Vineyard - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
Redolent berry, plum, cedar nose; berry, plum, cedar palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
Leflaive 
- 2007 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Reticent apple, citrus nose; tight apple, citrus, pear, oak palate with a green note; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
- 2007 Domaine Leflaive Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Âne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Oak, apple, cream nose; oak, apple, cream palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (90 pts.)
Leonetti - 2007 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
Plum, chocolate nose; plum, chocolate palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
- 2007 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
Chocolate, black bean nose; chocolate, black bean palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
López de Heredia - 1987 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Oxidized, almond, nutty nose; oxidized, almond, citrus, nutty palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (90% Viura,10% Malvasía) (91 pts.)
- 2000 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Rich red fruit, dried berry nose; rich red fruit, dried berry palate with depth; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
- 1991 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Dried berry, sandalwood nose; dried berry, sandalwood, pomegranate palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
Massolino - 2006 Massolino Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Big black fruit, blackberry, floral nose; black fruit, blackberry palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
- 2005 Massolino Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Berry, dried berry nose; rich, dried berry, charcoal palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
Movia - 2002 Movia Puro Rose - Slovenia, Primorska, Goriška Brda
Light tangerine color; big, baked orange nose; tart orange, lemon palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (50% Pinot Noir, 30% Rebula, 20% Chardonnay) (90 pts.)
Musar - 2001 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
Nice baked berry, red fruit, red bean, licorice nose; baked berry, red fruit, red bean, licorice palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
Nickel & Nickel - 2006 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Martin Stelling Vineyard Oakville - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
Cassis, berry nose; rich, cassis, berry, plum palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
- 2006 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Vogt Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
Plum, black fruit, charcoal nose; plum, black fruit, charcoal palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
Niepoort Verena Niepoort, Dirk's sister
 - 2008 Niepoort Douro Redoma Branco Reserva - Portugal, Douro
Floral, peach nose; tart peach, citrus, floral palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
- 2007 Niepoort Douro Charme - Portugal, Douro
Tart red fruit, red berry, red bean nose; red bean, ripe red fruit palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
- 1995 Niepoort Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Coffee, maple syrup nose; rich coffee, maple syrup, walnut palate with depth; long finish (93 pts.)
Ogier 
- 2005 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Cuvée la Belle Hélène - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Big berry, herbal nose; tart black fruit, tart plum, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
- 2007 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Rich, bacon fat nose; tasty, bacon fat, tart red fruit, pepper palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
Querceto - 2004 Castello di Querceto / Querceto Il Querciolaia Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
Dried plum, black fruit nose; rich, dried plum, black fruit palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
- 2005 Castello di Querceto / Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
Rich plum, berry nose; rich plum, berry palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
Raul Pérez Roda - 2004 Bodegas Roda Rioja Roda Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Red berry, baked berry nose; plush, berry, baked berry palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
- 2004 Bodegas Roda Rioja Roda I Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
Black fruit, berry, licorice nose; black fruit, berry, licorice palate; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
Royal Tokaji - 2008 Royal Tokaji Wine Co. Tokaji Mád Cuvée - Hungary, Tokaji
Oak, apple, honeyed nose; honeyed, apricot, tart apricot palate with good acidity; long finish (70% Furmint, 25% Muscat de Lunel, 5% Harslevelu; good value for $21) (92 pts.)
- 1999 Royal Tokaji Wine Co. Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Mézes Maly - Hungary, Tokaji
Tart orange, floral nose; tasty, rich, creamy textured, tart apricot, orange palate with depth; long finish (Furmint, Hárslevelú, Yellow Muscat; aged for 5 and a half years in used Hungarian oak barrels) (95 pts.)
Saint-Chamant - N.V. Saint-Chamant Champagne Brut - France, Champagne
Deep apple nose; apple, mineral palate with medium acidity; medium finish (89 pts.)
- 2000 Saint-Chamant Champagne Brut Cuvee de Chardonnay - France, Champagne
Creamy, yeasty, apple nose; creamy, yeasty, apple, mineral palate; medium finish (91 pts.)
- 1999 Saint-Chamant Champagne Brut Cuvee de Chardonnay - France, Champagne
Apple, baked apple, yeasty nose; apple, baked apple, yeasty, maturing palate; medium-plus finish 89+ pts. (89 pts.)
Sette Ponti Shafer - 2006 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
Rich cassis, red berry nose; rich cassis, oak, cherry palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
- 2007 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
Aromatic, berry nose; berry, baked berry, red bean palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
Tardieu-Laurent - 2007 Tardieu-Laurent Hermitage Blanc - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Apple, baked peach, brown sugar nose; apple, baked peach, brown sugar palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (85% Marsanne, 15% Roussanne) (91 pts.)
- 2007 Tardieu-Laurent Vacqueyras - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vacqueyras
Baked berry, vanilla, oak nose; baked berry, vanilla, oak palate; medium-plus finish (89 pts.)
Vietti - 2005 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Rich berry, blackberry nose; tasty berry, blackberry, rich palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
- 2007 Vietti Barbera d'Alba Scarrone - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba
Big black fruit, dried berry nose; rich, black fruit, tar, licorice palate; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
Wind Gap - 2007 Wind Gap Wines Syrah Griffin's Lair - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Black fruit, tart plum nose; tart black fruit, charcoal palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
- 2007 Wind Gap Wines Syrah Castelli-Knight Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Tart black fruit, charcoal nose; tart black fruit, charcoal palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
Yarra Yering - 2005 Yarra Yering Dry Red N°1 - Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
Cassis, red berry nose; cassis, red berry palate; medium finish (89 pts.)
- 2002 Yarra Yering Shiraz Underhill - Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
Mulberry, red berry nose; ripe, red berry, cinnamon, candied, red fruit palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (90 pts.)
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