Gevreys with friends

A dinner party with friends with only a modest interest in wine. I'd thought that there was sufficient variety in Gevrey not to need to go further afield, but actually the three mature reds were pretty close in style. And on this occasion the differences clashed rather than complemented I felt, with the freshness and fruitiness of the youngsters making the more mature wines taste tired. The whites were all stunning.

• 1999 Pol Roger Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
  Gorgeous, gorgeous, rich and grand - to the manner born (92 pts.)

• 2010 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
  Intense, powdery, fine essence of chardonnay fruit, mouthwateringly sharp - for all its youth highly enjoyable (92 pts.)
• 2008 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
  Finely oaked, deep, spicy, but focused, gorgeous (92 pts.)

• 1999 Domaine Maume Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
  Grippy, earthy, fresh, a touch of animal, bracing (89 pts.)
• 1999 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
  Warmer than the Maume, riper, perhaps a hint of oxidation, rich and gamey - more rustic than I remembered (89 pts.)
• 2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echezeaux Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
  After the two 1999 villages, this was not just fruitier and fresher, it had so much more dimension, thrilling in its breadth (92 pts.)

• 2005 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Poissenot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
  Not closed, but much more sedate than the preceding wines - smooth, ripe, quite oaky - classy could do with more bite. Obviously it's young, but hard to see into its future (90 pts.)
• 1997 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
  Perhaps my expectations undermined this. I was very conscious of some green in this. Gamey and animal, and not as sweet or pretty as past bottles. But round the table, this proved a favourite. [just seen my preceding note from July and am struck by how similar this one is] (89 pts.)

• 2010 Mark Haisma Gevrey-Chambertin La Croix des Champs - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
  A bit of a waste. It seemed too small after the other wines, for all its attractiveness
• 2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
  Uttterly wonderful. Similar taste profile to the Aux Echezeaux, but a fuller and smoother. (94 pts.)

• 1989 Château Coutet Barsac - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
  Deep gold, thick, sumptuous, with plenty of botrytis, fresh, lovely