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 1/24/2013 (Harwood Arms, London)
 

 

A lovely evening. Good and interesting wines, the usual top company and a splendid, and accommodating venue, with large portions of splendid meatiness. Must return.

 

Aperitif

  • 2010 Louis Jadot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
    Quite nicely open on the nose with some creamy lime fruit and a touch of vanilla. Quite fat and rounded. Creamy through the md-palate, some minerality and persistence, but also a roundness and openness. That said, there is a nicely tart bite through the finish if you suck and look for it. As it opens up it starts to show this more with a nicely chalky minerality and more bite. Lovely. **** (91 pts.)

Pheasant several ways

Fascinating flight, even with one wine seemingly off. All with their own personality. The Guettes straight laced but with a coy smile; the Ursules quite flirty and a little unkempt, the Greves sulking and the Couchereaux we dressed and mannered but with a slight cheekiness showing through.

A multitude of muntjac

  • 1990 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
    Meaty, sweet fruited, nicely decaying. Rich and ripe on the attack. Sweet, richa and lovely on the palate. 90 richness without the pruney over ripeness. Focuses up nicely with air. ****1/2 (94 pts.)
  • 2003 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
    Hmm, general view is that this is corked. Not sure initially. Quite flabby 03 nose. Custard apple. Possibly slightly musty. It is a little corky but there's almost enought 03 flab to cover it if thirsty. Then the VA storms through... (FLAWED)
  • 1999 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
    Dark and brooding. Licorish nose. Sauvage. Bright dark fruit. intense and brooding. Dark fruited. Lovely. Interesting. Lots of potential. **** (91 pts.)
  • 2000 Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
    Quite tight and focused. And a little musty. It's corked but somehow it's in keeping with the style. (FLAWED)
  • 1997 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
    On first pour, spicy washing powder nose. Opens up to a lovely sweet fruited meatiness. A bit of smoke, a touch of polish. A nice mix of lush, animals, polish and focus. Drier than the 90 CSJ. Top **** (93 pts.)
  • 1988 Château Rabaud-Promis - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Interesting nose. Not too medicinal. Subdued butterscotch nose with a crime brûlée edge. Sett but linear attack and a freshness with good acidity and nice line through the finish. Really very good. **** (91 pts.)
  • 1955 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Decanted just before serving. Almost a full tawny in colour. Fight, nutty fruit on the nose but a bit spirity. Quite mellow and rounded. Sweet. Opens up to quite a caramel nose. Spiritiness blows off quite quickly. **** (91 pts.)

 


 
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