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 3/21/2013 (Roberson Wine, South Ken, London)
 

 

Mark Andrew of the Roberson team presented a full flight of the Selosse wines along with a great introduction into the man himshelf and his style of wine making.

We have to say (barring the Rose) we were truly amazed by the champagnes or we should say wines of Selosse. Worthy on the reputation although the prices of most compete with behemoths of champagne like Krug 88 & 90 and to be honest its difficult to justify it. Granted a whole different style of wines and very unique.

The Selosse signature for us is Spice, Ripeness and a richness like no other. Once would struggle to pick these as almost zero dosage wines (barring the VO). Very vinous champagnes, closer to burgundy wines . Finally what we could only describe as a light popping candy attack when the wine hits the palate. Like a nucleation reaction.

A great tasting!

 

The Entry Range

Blends from 3 concsecutive vintages and assembled from vines in 3 of the 4 villages on the slopes of the cotes des blancs - cramant, Avize and Oger. Initial 2700 cases, Exquise 100 cases and V.O 300 cases.

  • N.V. Jacques Selosse Champagne Brut Initiale - France, Champagne
    Disgorged 13May11. 100% Chardonnay, &lt;5g/l dosage 12% Alc.
    Light in colour, pale straw. Toasty nose probably as toasty as Selosse champagnes get. Ripe apple light spice on the nose too. A lot of activity on the palate , a touch of a faint popping candy feel if we try to place this. Full of life, rich, round and intense. Very long finish. Very vinous champagne . Superb and of great value. Only criticism we would add especially vs the rest of the Selosse champagnes is that it lost its energy after 30mins while the rest sort of continued to evolve non stop. Still a very good 94-95 (95 pts.)
  • N.V. Jacques Selosse Champagne Cuvée Exquise - France, Champagne
    Disgorged 20Jan2012. 100% Chardonnay, 12% Alc, ~24 g/l dosage.
    Light, pale straw colour. Light nose, however the palate it is full on. The dosage here makes an impact too and the wine is riper, lush, fat champagne with a sweetish/ripe fruit core. Spicy notes. Round champagne but also less tidy. Lacks the definition and complexity of the lower dosage Selosse wines. Maybe time can help. 91-92 at the moment for us (91 pts.)
  • N.V. Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut V.O. - France, Champagne
    Disgorged 20Apr2012. 100% Chardonnay, 12% Alc, &lt;5g/l dosage.
    Light in colour, pale straw. Light toasty on the nose . On the palate though this is sharp, powerful hits you like a whip (add the sound effects here pls). The sharpest and focussed of Selosse wines. Lovely salinity, minerality. Less of a rounder style of champagne and more of the gout Anglais ie aperitif style. High Acidity Feels like its not yet integrated and could use some more time in bottle. Different style to the usual fatty, spicy signature of Selosse. 92-93 (92 pts.)

The Specials

Substance is from 2 parcels in Avize and is made in 275 cases a year. Rose is 500 cases a year and the still Pinot Noil is sourced from Francis Egly in Ambonnay and blended with 2 vintages of chardonnay from Avize.

  • N.V. Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Substance - France, Champagne, Avize, Champagne
    Disgorged 21Oct2010. 100% Chardonnay, 12.5% Alc, &lt;5g/l dosage. Solera since 1987
    Decent colour, glossy honey. Rich on the nose, spice, cinnamon & floral notes intermix with ripe apple. Selosse palate too, that fine mousse that engulfs with light popping candy feel. Powerful and oxidative on the finish and reminded us of a Tondonia Blanco GR finish. Very elegant and with a gigantic finish. 94-95 (95 pts.)
  • N.V. Jacques Selosse Champagne Rosé - France, Champagne
    Disgorged 20Sep2011. 90% Chardonnay / 10% Pinot still wine added
    Light nose, surprisingly austere. Probably the most austere, mineral rose champagne we have come across, acidic, very dry and sharp. This will last for many years to come, although not sure how it evolves from here. Not our style and not sure it justifies the ~£170 price tag though. 90-91 from us (91 pts.)

The Lieux Dits

From 2010 we see the dream come true, Single vineyard, solera wines from his favorite terroirs. We tased 4 of the 6 , missing below are the Chemin de Chalons and Le Chantereines.

  • N.V. Jacques Selosse Champagne Blanc de Blancs Les Carelles - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne
    Disgorged 13Apr2011. 100% Chardonnay, &lt;5 g/l dosage. 2003 dominant vintage in what will eventually become a solera champagne.
    A truly amazing champagne. Light spice, rich nose. Would struggle to pick it as a champagne from the nose. Rich on the palate, ripe, spicy, lots of presence and round. Well balanced, elegant, vibrant. We can go on for ever here but this is truly mesmerising. 96-97 WOTN by a huge mile. (97 pts.)
  • N.V. Jacques Selosse Champagne Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut Sous le Mont - France, Champagne, Ambonnay, Champagne
    Disgorged 25Jan2012. 100% Pinot Noir, &lt;5 g/l dosage. 2005 mostly in what will eventually become a solera champagne.
    Good colour. Spicy nose, rose, cinnamon, apple. A touch too rich on the spice side in a way unbalanced, like a young cote rotie. Not integrated yet and we would suggest one waits a few more years and given the price tag.. pray! 92-93 for now at most (92 pts.)
  • N.V. Jacques Selosse Champagne Lieux Dits Le Bout du Clos - France, Champagne, Ambonnay, Champagne
    Disgorged 31Mar2011. 80% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay, &lt;5 g/l dosage. Solera champagne.
    Very elegant, vinous, closer to a wine than a champagne (barring the mouse of course). Round, ripe fruit, light spice, rich wine. We would have loved to see some more vitality here. Other than that it is a very elegant wine with good depth. 94 (94 pts.)
  • N.V. Jacques Selosse Champagne Blanc de Noirs La Côte Faron - France, Champagne, Aÿ, Champagne
    Disgorged 23Jan2011. 100% Pinot Noir, &lt;5 g/l dosage. Solera champagne since 94 and what used to go into cuvee Contrast.
    Good colour, looks and is a rich wine. Less of the Selosse spicy character here. Ripe rich fruit, apple notes, full bodied champagne probably as full bodied as champagne gets. Lacks the vitality of the Carelles but a superb wine nonetheless. 95+ easy (95 pts.)

 


 
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