| | Sebastien Papin of Champagne house Billecart-Salmon is the Asia Pacific representative, based in Tokyo. He was in Wellington for the day.
Brandon Nash of Dhall and Nash (http://www.dnfinewine.com), Billecart-Salmon's New Zealand distribution company, organised a tasting for the gang at the Museum Hotel and very generously shouted us to a degustation meal at Laurent Loudeac's exquisite Hippopotamus Restaurant, that is part of the Hotel. The Head Sommelier of the Hippopotomus, Maciej Zimny joined us for the tasting and meal. The attendees raided their cellars for suitable wines to bring along to accompany the meal.
Thanks very much to Sebastien, Brandon and Maciej (and to all of the attendees) for a memorable evening!
We began in the Hotel's Billiards Room with a tasting of Billecart-Salmon's Champagnes (non-blind) ... Billecart-Salmon Champagnes - N.V. Billecart-Salmon Champagne Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
This is Sebastien's favourite, but, as a Blanc de Blancs, is not the most popular in the range. The NV we tried is from three vintages, with 2009 the base. Eight grams of sugar of dosage per litre. Very pale lemon colour with subdued bead. Bouquet pure with green apple, some stone fruit and cherries. Some wet stone and minerality, with light autolysis notes. On palate, quite ripe but with racy acids. Well balanced with good weight and structure. Pure, clean flavours: citric, malic, pear and a subtle leesy, autolysis element. Rich and open with some evolution suggested. Quite long, finished nutty, dry and crisp. Would be great with seafood and could be cellared. 91. (91 pts.)
- N.V. Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Sous Bois - France, Champagne
Sebastien reminds us that Billecart-Salmon loves Pinot Meunier. Sous Bois is Pinot Meunier 40%, Pinot Noir 30% and Chardonnay 30%, the same components as the NV Brut but with oak treatment. It was released for the first time 5 years ago. Two batches of 20,000 bottles were produced. Colour much deeper gold, bigger bead. Very different, quite complex, bouquet of nectarines, clotted cream, vanilla ice cream, toffee with citric, toasty, leesy elements. Quite restrained nose but lifted, with some florals. Also more complex on the palate with flavours tending mandarin, apricots, yellow plums, with some minerality. Entry is quite fruit driven and bright and the mid palate shows the creamy texture component of the oak. Long finish, complex mealy character. Good acids and intensity and dry enough. Seemed higher dosage but still the same 8 grams. The Champagne started toasty and leesy but with time in the glass the fruit and dosage came through. Would be a good food Champagne. 92. (92 pts.)
- 2004 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Millésimé - France, Champagne
The Brut sometimes has a dash of sugar but the 2004 is zero dosage. Pinot Noir 60%, Chardonnay 40%. Thirty percent barrel fermented, no new oak. Colour deeper lemon again. Lovely nose, aromas of lemon, pineapple and red fruit. Also intense flinty minerality, almost Chablis-like marine elements and chalk. Real tension and elegance on palate. Chalky, citric and nutty flavours, very racy, with high acids and real intensity. Complex palate but very primary. Fresh, succulent and tart. Well balanced with good fruit weight. Taut and rich at the same time. Quite long. Would accompany most seafood well, particularly scallops. Good Champagne to cellar. 93. (93 pts.)
- 2004 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésimé - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
A 5-6 grams dosage. The Champagne poured from decanter into white wine glasses, not flutes. As Sebestien says, this is wine, not Champagne. Light gold in colour. Fresh, expressive and complex nose. Not much fruit, notes of white florals, almonds, mealy autolysis. Some aromas similar to other Blanc de Blancs, chalky minerality, also some spice. In the mouth, very tight and primary. Fresh with richness, complexity, real concentration and power. A refined, elegant wine. Flavours chalky, yellow orchard fruit, mineral, almost Chablis-like, with minimal bead. Very long. The big brother of the other Blanc de Blancs. Excellent QPR. Years ahead of it. 93. (93 pts.)
- 2002 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas François - France, Champagne
Again in the decanter (which Sebastien particularly recommends for this Champagne). Pinot Noir 50%, Chardonnay 50%. A small production Champagne, with 5-6 grams dosage. Colour the darkest gold. Nose a little closed but intriguing and lifted. Aromas of honey, tropical fruit, creme brûlée, lemon, blanched almonds and wet stone, a little leesy and oxidative. Bouquet a little like a good white Burgundy, with some age. Initially, tight and primary on palate. After the bubbles subside, this is again more of a wine than a Champagne to drink. Real depth, concentration and power, with elegance and a complex flavour profile. Rich flavours of clotted cream, nuts, butterscotch, vanilla bean, autolysis and minerals. Beautiful acid structure. Great length. This feels a little like it's still sleeping but it's got all the stuffing needed for longer term cellaring. (94 pts.)
- N.V. Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
For Billecart-Salmon, the Rosé is the brand within the brand. That can be a handicap for it, said Sebastein. It has the highest dosage of 9 grams. Chardonnay 40%, Pinot Noir 30% (7% aged in barrel), Pinot Meunier 30%. Light salmon in colour. Bouquet of fragrant strawberries, raspberries, peaches and cream. Also, some lemon peel, minerals, savoury notes and a suggestion of salinity. On palate, lovely creamy texture with flavours of strawberries, raspberries, citrus fruit and some nice minerality. Good structure and length, finishing on its minerality. Bright acidity and fresh, with the sweetness increasing its attractiveness. (92 pts.)
Wines with Dinner at the Hippopotamus Restaurant - 2003 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Colour deep gold. Wow, the bouquet on this! I could happily sit with a glass of this in the corner on my own and sniff it all night. Notes of butterscotch, honey, burnt toffee, crème brulee, blanched nuts, glycerol, candied orange peel, with a touch of gasoline. And the palate delivers on the promise of the bouquet. The amazing texture hits you first: waxy, honeyed, tactile, oily and viscous. The flavours are multidimensional, in layers, including butterscotch, marmalade, candied fruit peel, Asian spices, honey, yellow orchard and tropical fruit, again with that touch of gasoline. There are even limestone and mineral flavours, with the palate finishing on an attractive bitterness, not on acids. The palate is primary, not oxidative, with the oak (apparently 10 -20 percent new oak) still visible, yet to fully integrate. High alcohol obviously but not obtrusive. Huge structure and very long. Easily 10+ more years in it. WoTN in a quality field, 97. (97 pts.)
- 2009 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Tough for anything to follow the Chave, but this is a classy Chardonnay. Colour fairly bright gold. Expressive, lifted nose of ripe fruit, with notes of citrus, cream, peaches and pears, and some spice, also showing some toasty vanilla oak. In the mouth, a nice silky texture. Very ripe fruit, but good acid balance with some acid intensity on the back palate (not stereotypical 2009 white Burgundy, overripe, lacking sufficient acids). Citric, stone fruit flavours with some minerality. Paired well with the salmon. Cellar 6-10 years, at present, 92. (92 pts.)
- 2006 Gros Frère et Sœur Clos Vougeot Musigni - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Deep red colour. A gorgeous, exotic nose of damp earth, dark cherries and plums, spices and funk (some brett?, that could be interpreted as savoury complexity). On the palate, very good on entry then seems to shut down somewhere in the mid palate. Very primary with amazing, silky, fine grained tannins. The flavour spectrum is largely red fruit with that bit of funk and an interesting iodine character. True Grand Cru structure and length and serious, dense dry extract. Real power, but not without elegance. Showing typical 2006 vintage character. I'm not typically a fan of this house's style, but I'm very impressed by this. Very young, needs at least 10+ years. 94. (94 pts.)
- 2009 Gros Frère et Sœur Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Colour primary red, tending purple. A high toned nose, more pure than the Musigni. Bouquet largely red fruited - cherries, raspberries and red currants - with some Chinese spices. Very primary in the mouth, with a lovely crystalline quality, and more open textured than the Musigni. Lovely purity on palate with huge, Grand Cru structure and generous mid palate fruit weight. Also fairly shut down, with flavours of black cherries, spices, soil and some chocolate with an oak artefact. Oxidative however not overdone or over oaked. Very powerful and long. A classy wine to hold for 10+ years. 93, at the moment. (93 pts.)
- 2007 Domaine Denis Bachelet Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Decanted four hours. Nice ruby colour. Lovely expressive nose of red cherries, red currants, raspberries, some tobacco and spices, some warm earth, typical Gevrey. Some tasters thought the bouquet New Worldish pinot. Sweetish, velvety entry to the palate then the prominent acidity hits. This wine is closed in a different way than the Gros Frère, on its acids. Superb acid structure. But serious structure, dense fruit weight and good length. Surprisingly primary for a 2007, which are typically more accessible. Reasonably approachable now but optimally don't open for 5+ years, 94. (94 pts.)
- 2001 Bernard Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Colour primary, bright red. Fragrant, perfumed bouquet of florals (violets?), primary black fruit - blackberries and blackcurrants - espresso, liquorice and a little spice. Lovely savoury entry to the palate. Brooding with palate staining depth, huge structure and power. Not without elegance. Silky with gorgeous, suave tannins. Earthy, mushroom flavours with black cherries, iron, liquorice and espresso. Drinking well now, but, with this huge dry extract, many years ahead of it. Paired beautifully with the tapenade. 95. (95 pts.)
- 1996 Domaine Bruno Clair Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Ruby colour starting to brown. Beautiful, exotic, lifted nose with floral and savoury notes. A palate of real elegance and finesse. Taut and focused with a creamy texture. Beautifully made, refined and restrained, with resolved tannins. Poised and light on its feet, to me, the best and most complex tannin structure of the red Burgundies. In '96 style. As Nick said, if there's a criticism of the Clair it's that it could have been broader with more extraction and fruit. Delicate, showing its age beautifully, right at its peak now, 96. (96 pts.)
- 2006 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Côte-Rôtie Terres Sombres - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Deep purple colour. A primary nose of ripe red fruits showing (what I assumed was) new French oak. Prominent notes of vanilla and cassis. On palate very youthful and primary. Somewhat reserved with great purity. Flavours heavy with crème de cassis. All it needs for long term cellaring. 92. (92 pts.)
- 1995 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
The last time I bumped into Sebastien at a restaurant in Wellington he said that he was drinking Jamet Côte-Rôtie and he said that he "loved Jamet". I brought this bottle for him, but as a conversation bottle, worrying that it might be brett affected ... I needn't have worried ... Decanted for four hours, slow-o. Colour still fairly bright red. Bouquet a little toffee, savoury aromas, a little animale, earthiness, underbrush and funk. I detected a little bretty savoury complexity but others disputed the presence of any brett. On palate, evolved flavours but lively acidity and purity of fruit. Excellent structure, fruit weight and tannins, nicely resolved and mellow. Good length, not at all clipped on the back palate. Finishing on lovely savoury flavours. If you are lucky enough to have this in your cellar, you can drink it now or cellar for many years. 95. (95 pts.)
- 2007 Tertre Rôteboeuf - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Colour bright, primary purple. A primary bouquet of cassis, tobacco, dark flowers, black coffee, pencil shavings, cedar and a little plum. In the mouth, sweet, silky fruit, very ripe. Lovely texture, caresses the palate. Opulent. Flavours of blackberries, blackcurrants, liquorice, smoke and a touch of mocha. Great depth, serious power and concentration. Very focussed, precise and elegant with lovely, fine grained tannins. Really needs serious cellar time (30 + years). 94. On the reveal, St-Emilion is no surprise, but 2007 is. This has remarkable depth for a 2007. This label is a favourite of Sebastien's, and flies under the radar, worth seeking out. (94 pts.)
- 1997 Château Bahans Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Colour deep red. Nose shows clear bell pepper aroma. Clearly Cabernet Sauvignon signature, with some age showing aromas of tobacco, cigar box, herbs and dried leaves. On palate, a classic claret, English-style Bordeaux, not from a blockbuster year. Succulent, mellowing with beautiful acid balance. Flavours of tobacco, dark cherries, dried herbs, leather and brushwood. Suave, fine grained tannins, fully resolved. Well proportioned and long, finishes on a beautifully savoury note. On the reveal, the vintage and the fact this is First Growth quality is no surprise. More time to go in the cellar or drink now, 95. (95 pts.)
- 2006 Dominus Estate - USA, California, Napa Valley
Colour primary red purple. On bouquet, very primary nose of Cabernet Sauvignon aromas: crème de cassis, graphite, spice and liquorice. Also, toasty, vanilla oak. On palate, rich, sweet entry and dense mid palate. Serious structure and velvety, sweet tannins. Flavours of dark berries, liquorice and a touch of dark chocolate. Appropriate levels of acidity, with back palate intensity and good length, finishing with some minerality. Oak present on palate but not, for me, overdone. 93. Everyone but Brandon picks this as Old World (Bordeaux, Spain, Madiran etc), who has it as US and does a victory dance on the reveal! (93 pts.)
A great evening was enjoyed by all. Thanks again guys! |
