| | A sensational dinner with some friends from Knightsbridge and LVMH and our new friend, Olivier Krug. One of the most educational wine dinners I have attended in a long time, while also great fun with a wonderful group of diners. Young Grande Cuvée to Start - N.V. Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée - France, Champagne
Spring 2013 disgorgement, with 2006 vintage as its base. Big and robust as always, with really great freshness and energy. Lots of intense apple, hints of toasted brioche. Wonderful as always. (92 pts.)
Young Clos du Mesnil - 2003 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil - France, Champagne
Served in flight of Krug Mesnil 2003, 2000, 1996. Comes across as more floral and riper vs the 2000 and 1996, but also great spice to complement the fruit intensity. Good length and balance, I never would have guessed this from 2003 if served blind with its great textures and elegance. (93 pts.)
- 2000 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil - France, Champagne
In flight of Krug 2003, 2000, 1996 Mesnil. The more energetic and linear of the flight, this also showed lots of apple, lemon and lemon peel, but to me came across as the most powerful and persistent of the flight. I slightly preferred this vs the more fruit-driven 1996, while I think most others disagreed. This was clearly better when finished several hours after it was poured into my glass. Very cellar worthy. (95 pts.)
- 1996 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil - France, Champagne
In flight of Krug Mesnil 2003, 2000, 1996. Charming floral start with lots of citrus and orchard fruit, showing lots of power and concentration, while every element in complete harmony. Very long and unfolding in glass. As good (or better) when finished several hours after poured vs when first poured. (95 pts.)
Mid Aged Clos du Mesnil - 1995 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil - France, Champagne
In flight of Krug Mesnil 1995, 1992, 1990. To an extent I found this the most "Krug-like" with lots of concentration and a powerful character of rich, flavorful sourdough with yeasty elements. Very dense. (93 pts.)
- 1992 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil - France, Champagne
In flight of Krug Mesnil 1995, 1992, 1990. The least dense of tonight's 6 vintages of Krug Mesnil, but perhaps the most refined and elegant. Lots of apple, lemon and lemon peel with great freshness and textures. Quintessential Chardonnay character at its best and most refined. (94 pts.)
- 1990 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil - France, Champagne
In flight of Krug Mesnil 1995, 1992, 1990. A bottle I had purchased 3-4 years ago. Very ripe and intense yellow and green apple with lots of Meyer lemon aromas and flavors. Ripeness is balanced with lots of concentration and structure, providing a long, powerful seamless character. Sensational. My WOTN in a night of great bottles of Krug. (96 pts.)
Complete Vertical of Clos d'Ambonnay - 1995 Krug Champagne Clos d'Ambonnay - France, Champagne
Served in a complete historical vertical of Krug d'Ambonnay 1995, 1996, 1998. Like all three, I would have thought this red Pinot Noir if served blindfolded. Strawberry and raspberry throughout with some subtle spice. (92 pts.)
- 1996 Krug Champagne Clos d'Ambonnay - France, Champagne
Served in a complete historical vertical of Krug d'Ambonnay 1995, 1996, 1998. Seemingly ripe strawberry and raspberry with some background apple hints. Incredibly long with massive bursts of energy. Like all three in the flight, i would have thought this certainly red Pinot Noir if served blindfolded. A serious WOTN contender for me in a night of great bottles of Krug. (96 pts.)
- 1998 Krug Champagne Clos d'Ambonnay - France, Champagne
Served in a complete historical vertical of Krug d'Ambonnay 1995, 1996, 1998. Very ripe, dense and chewy. Large scaled and powerful. Like all three in the flight I would certainly have thought this red Pinot Noir if served blindfolded. (94 pts.)
Vintage Vintage Brut - 2003 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
Both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir come through loud and clear here with plenty of ripe apple and red berries. Rich, lush and forward to start, followed by some good energy middle-to-finish. Moderate length. (91 pts.)
- 2000 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
Lemon, lemon curd, some apple aromas and flavors with good spice support. Energetic, long, every vibrant. (93 pts.)
- 1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
Lots of intense cross-section of yellow and green orchard fruit on nose. Powerful flavors without any sense of being very ripe. Very long. (93 pts.)
1975 Vintage Brut on its Own - 1975 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
Powerful start with shocking freshness. Clearly mature but still showing fresh fruit, with apple, lemon custard and some grapefruit peel and hints of red cherry. Moderate effervescence was consistent with the wine's age, but the freshness would have made me think this 10+ years younger if served blind. No signs of oxidation. Very enjoyable, thank you David! This was the last year Krug was bottled in a "regular" Champagne bottle; in '76 they switched to the current more stylish bottle. (92 pts.)
Odds and Ends - 1998 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
Maturing apple with an elegant, leaner style. Plenty of bready, toasty character throughout. (92 pts.)
- 1988 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
Incredibly powerful with lots of apple and lemon and coiled energy getting ready to explode. Very long, keeps expanding. This is a vintage I have always really liked from Krug, and this excellent bottle was far better than another slightly disappointing bottle from last year. (94 pts.)
- N.V. Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée - France, Champagne
This was a 2007 disgorgement but we don't know if the base was 1999, 2000 or 2001. Clearly mature orchard fruit start-to-finish, but also nicely powerful and balanced. I preferred the younger, fresher 2013 disgorgement that was served at the start of the evening.
But Wait...There is More...and it's not Krug - 1966 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Mature black fruit with lots of cigar box and cooked mushroom hints. We didn't have time to give this much air or time so have no insight into how it would evolve with more time in glass. Moderate length or power, but almost perfect balance. Very nice of Ken to open to honor Olivier Krug being a "1966." (92 pts.)
- 1990 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Apricot, some candied citrus peel and lots of botrytis coming through. Moderate length. Lots of pleasure, perhaps not quite as complete as another bottle from a few months ago. (93 pts.)
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