| | Mr. Bernard Burtschy, the wine writer for Le Figaro and a fellow Grand Jury Europeen member and Mr. Pierre Lurton of Cheval Blanc and D’Yquem were in town for the Heart's Delight. Bijan organized a dinner in their honor. Twelve of us got together at Taberna del Alabardero to drink what else, but Cheval Blanc and D’Yquem. I was extremely happy and felt very privileged to attend the dinner since Cheval Blanc and Vieux Chateau Certan are my two favorite right bank properties. Also I have always considered D'Yquem to be a unique terroir and step above almost all Sauterns/Barsac, perhaps Climen being the only exception in certain vintages. This event strongly reaffirmed my love for Cheval Blanc and D’Yquem. Champagne I was busy opening the bottles and thought this was the 96 Churchill. Was it the power of suggestion? I thought the 96 Pol Roger showed exceptionally well and others agreed, though might not have rated as high as 97 pts. I discussed the greatness and the remarkable consistency of the luxury cuvee champagnes in general and Dom in particular. We also agreed that some folks misjudge young Dom and don’t recognize the importance of aging them. - 2000 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
As Bernard Burtschy pointed out, this was pretty tight. Fresh white fruits, citrus, granny smith, white pepper and mineral. Medium concentration, fine mousse, good acidity and clean medium finish. It is interesting that the 02 has opened up beautifully all of sudden in the last few months where the 00 remains youthful. Also this is more linear/cooler but less concentrated than the 02. For my palate the 02 is superior, about three points higher in general. Still very nice way to start. (92 pts.)
- 1996 Pol Roger Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
It was a big crowd for a sommelier so I helped open the bottles and I just assumed that this was the 96 Churchill but turned out that it was the regular vintage. Having said that this was my note.
“This was absolutely seeing from the get go. Fully matured and its peak, displaying beautiful sweet yellow fruits, apple tart, apple peel, ginger, spicy spices and mineral. Exceptional concentration, fine mousse, intensely sweet yellow fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and lovely seamless finish. This is a great example of the 96 luxury cuvee champagne, ie very hedonistic with generous concentrated sweet fruits yet also very precise due to the bright acidity. I highly recommend.”
This showed exceptional well but thinking this was the Churchill influenced my score? I still highly recommend. (97 pts.)
White Burgundy My 04 sensitivity and love bias for Raveneau kicked in. - 2004 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Domaine - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Very steely and mineral nose with shy white fruits, also a hint of caramel showing the maturity, mint and a hint of the 04 taint that shows as green/pyrazine note that is not terribly bothersome. Good concentration, nice mineral notes, shy white fruit driven palate impression, good acidity and medium finish. Pretty good CC that is enjoyable now but slightly lacking the vibrant energy for my palate. (92 pts.)
- 2008 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Pop and pour, starts pretty tight and unyielding but incredibly mineral and dense impression hint that we are in for a treat and it doesn’t disappoint. With air, dense ripe fruits, lemon curd, incredibly mineral like wet limestone in hot summer day, mint, spicy spices, white flowers and saline as usual. Quite dense yet very precise with sweet ripe yellow fruits, piercing acidity and strong presence of mineral. Beautiful acidity and mineral driven finish that linger. Highly recommend. Just checked my last TN and I rated the same. (96 pts.)
Ygrec Pierre explained the methodology of picking the grapes for Ygrec. He mentioned that with age, perhaps the great Alsatian Riesling may be stylistically similar to Ygrec. We also discussed the lack of demand for Sauterns and the need for the properties to re-invent themselves. - 2010 Y de Yquem - France, Bordeaux
As usual so unique and interesting. Nose displaying very sweet yet fresh white and yellow fruits, perfectly ripe white peach, pineapple, acacia, a hint of coconut, lanoline and limestone. Excellent concentration, beautiful sweet and dense yet fresh white fruit driven palate impression, unctuous, piercing acidity and lovely long clean finish. Despite having residual sugar, the overall expression is very precise and deceptively dry due to the piercing acidity and strong presence of mineral. Very primary but incredibly hedonistic. Really fascinating wine. (96 pts.)
- 2009 Y de Yquem - France, Bordeaux
It is interesting to compare with the 10 as they mimic the vintage characters of the red. The 10 is quite precise and structured where the 09 is rounder. Plain cotton candy, banana, pear, bubble gum, a hint of lanoline and mineral. Excellent concentration, sweet yellow and white fruit driven palate impression, medium to slightly low acidity, strong presence of mineral and clean cool and sweet finish. Quite fresh and cool despite the residual sugar and slightly lacking acidity. (94 pts.)
Cheval Blanc - 37 & 79 The 37 from the same source as the last showed a lot better. I really wish I was little more careful extracting the cork. A few thought the 79 was corked but I took it as musty/dirty cellar smell. - 1937 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Significantly better than the last bottle but a hint of oxidative note. According to Pierre only 15hl per hectare and it showed. Incredibly concentrated dense nose displaying sweet dry red fruits, dry cherry, dry fig, plum, soy, meat, tar, chestnut and cedar. Incredible concentration, intensely sweet dry red fruit driven palate impression, dense and unctuous and still noticeable structure. I was planning to slow ox/adouze the night before but opted not to which was turned out to be not a bad thing. I thought I am an expert in opening old bottles and it back fired. I was a bit careless and put too much pressure on ah so and the cork slid and eventually fell into the bottle. I was forced to quickly decant. I believe the wine would have shown better if it was handled more gently. Most folks including myself enjoyed the wine quite a bit despite the wine being slightly madeirized. (93 pts.)
- 1979 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Some thought it was corked but musty/dirty cellar was my take. Fully mature medium nose of delicate yet sweet red fruits, very pretty, raspberry and strawberry, shy flower, a hint of cedar and leather, steel and mineral. Very silky, round and warm, delicate sweet red fruit driven palate impression and no noticeable tannins. Apparently the 79 was a high yield vintage but I can’t complain. (93 pts.)
Cheval Blanc - 82, 85 & 90 The 82 was singing and some picked as their WOTN. It was an exceptinal showing and I rated 95 pts, not quite perfect but certainly not in the low 90s. The 90 was my WOTF, really hedonistic. - 1982 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
As more of you know this was initially rated 100pts and downgraded to 92pts by Bob. Medium nose displaying concentrated sweet red fruits, raspberry jelly, nutmeg, tree bark, black truffle and cedar. Exceptional concentration yet not necessarily dense, wonderfully layered and silky, decadent red fruit driven palate impression, soft and round yet quit precise, nicely integrated tannins and lovely long sweet finish. At the peak of the first stage of full maturity showing exceptional harmony and balance. It becomes very Burgundian. (96 pts.)
- 1985 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Warm and round nose displaying sweet red fruits, mint and mineral. Unfortunately it smelled a bit musty. Very warm, round and mineral driven Cheval Blanc. (FLAWED)
- 1990 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
The nose was very 90 in that it displayed mostly ripe slightly dry black fruits like the 90 Margaux or the 90 Leoville Poyferre. It was also very Cheval Blanc with noticeable Cab Franc impression, ash and strong presence of mineral. Expressive hedonistic dark fruit driven nose, dry blackberry, cassis, lavender, lead pencil, exotic spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, unctuous, hedonistic sweet black fruit driven palate impression, noticeable structure with bright acidity and noticeable sweet tannins and lovely long incredibly sweet finish. Really enjoyable wine with very promising future. FWIW, it is very 90 so if very ripe fruit bothers you and you don’t care for the 90 Bordeaux, stay away. I imagine this would be a legend that closely resembling the 47 Cheval Blanc in another twenty years. (99 pts.)
Cheval Blanc - 94, 95 & 97 This is the weakest flight yet they all were quite enjoyable, especially the nose. - 1994 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
It was really interesting and educational that this was served after the 90. This feels very 94, soft, warm, subtle and slightly unripe which brings out Cab Franc red fruits and steely mineral. Shy fresh delicate red fruits, raspberry and strawberry, lead pencil, mineral and earth. Medium to light concentration, warm, soft and round, mineral, no noticeable tannins and medium finish. Quite enjoyable like the 79. Very food friendly claret. (92 pts.)
- 1995 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
The last time I had this wine was during the judgement of Sauternes awhile back. As I recall I rated 93 and 94 pts as there were two entries. Very youthful nose displaying sweet red fruits, plum and strawberry with a hint of cassis, cedar, leather and earth. Very good concentration and density, sweet slightly dry red fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and noticeable tannings. Still need time and for now I would decant for a couple hours. (94 pts.)
- 1997 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Medium/perfumed nose, medium fresh red fruits, raspberry and strawberry, lead pencil, mineral, flower, leather and earth. Medium concentration, mineral and medium finish. There is a hint of bitter note that clips the finish short. Really enjoyable Cheval Blanc nose. (92 pts.)
Cheval Blanc - 98, 00 and 05 These are three monumental wines that will become the legends in a few decades. - 1998 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
It is always a privilege and fascinating to drink this side by side with the 00. Pierre mentioned that this is one of his favorite Cheval Blancs as it is very classic representation. Explosive and incredibly complex nose displaying decadent yet fresh sweet red fruits, rose, caramel, cedar, grilled shitake and truffle. Exceptional concentration without losing the freshness and precision, decadent sweet red fruit driven palate impression, silky and warm, perfect amount of acidity and tannins and love long sweet fresh finish. It is as concentrated as the 00 but more red fruit driven and classic. I however slightly preferred the hedonistic slightly kinky black fruit of the 00 this time. Very youthful yet perfectly hedonistic experience. Considering the price, one of the best values in the top Bordeaux category at auction. (99 pts.)
- 2000 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
What a privilege to compare with the 98 side by side. Unbelievably hedonistic nose with incredibly amount of everything, sweet jammy black fruits as in crème de cassis, smoke, ink, mineral, exotic flowers, sweet spices and truffle. Incredible concentration, unctuous, intense jammie black fruit driven palate impression, strong presence of mineral and acidity, no noticeable tannin as it is masked by intense sweet fruits. The fruit expression, concentration and structure is very similar to the 90, perhaps slightly more fresher. Just perfect! (100 pts.)
- 2005 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
This is actually bigger than the 00 which is incredible. It is hard to believe that this is a ten year old wine. Still completely opaque and almost like a barrel sample. Just perfectly ripe Cab Franc nose, jammy black fruits, crèmes de cassis, exotic incense, ink, lavender, chocolate, mocha and limestone. Unbelievably concentrated, unctuous, intense black fruit driven palate impression, strong presence of mineral, bright acidity, sweet tannins and very long finish. For my palate, stylistically very similar to the 90 and the 00 but even bigger. This will be a 100 year wine. Monumental but extremely primary. It will definitely be a 100 point wine in twenty years. (98 pts.)
Cheval des Andes - 06 & 10 According to Pierre, Mr. Arnault approached him regarding making great wines in Argentina. After traveling to Argentina and tasting the 71 Norton, he was convinced and the rest is history. The fruit expression is quite opulent and generous and hints towards the new world. However the wines are age worthy with bright acidity and strong presence of tannins. - 2006 Cheval des Andes - Argentina, Mendoza, Lujan de Cuyo, Vistalba
Obviously very different than Cheval Blanc. Big scale nose displaying acidic black fruits, pine, tar, bitter chocolate, graphite and scorched earth. Excellent concentration, silky ripe black fruits driven palate impression, mineral, tar and ash, piercing acidity and nicely integrated tannins. It may sound like an oxymoron but it tasted like a nicely aged Malbec. (92 pts.)
- 2010 Cheval des Andes - Argentina, Mendoza, Lujan de Cuyo, Vistalba
Very primary nose displaying opulent blue and black fruits, crèmes des cassis, blueberry jam, dark spices, mint, black pepper and tar. Excellent concentration, jammy yet fresh blue fruit driven palate impression, mineral, piercing acidity, nicely integrated tannins and long sweet and acidic finish. It taste like a very young high end Malbec. If you like opulent fruit, you will enjoy this wine. (94 pts.)
D'Yquem - 90, 86 & 62 This was simply an exclamation point on a memorable evening! - 1990 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Beautiful example displaying intense yellow fruits, apricot, ginger, cremes brules, candied orange peel, sweeten tea and sweet spices. Exceptional concentration yet airy, decadent sweet yellow fruit driven palate impression, perfect amount of acidity and lovely long clean and seamless finish. It has reached the first stage of D’Yquem maturity and it will require another twenty to thirty years to reach the 67 like stage to gain more red fruit, precision and tertiary notes. A great wine that showed exceptional well. (97 pts.)
- 1986 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
It is always compare the 80s D’Yquem. The 90 is bigger and dense where the 86 is more precise and fresher. Very fresh nose of perfectly ripe yellow peach, botrytis, spice spices and honey. Very polished cool palate and lovely precision. Just lovely wine displaying perfect balance. Really enjoyable and ready to go. (97 pts.)
- 1962 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Beautiful light to medium amber. Very harmonious nose of honey, caramel, dry apricot, apricot jam, orange marmalade and spicy spices. Still displaying exceptional concentration, dense yet air, ripe slightly dry yellow fruit driven palate impression, good acidity and lovely seamless finish. All the elements have come together to show the perfect harmony. Really enjoyable. I wish I can observe how it develops with air for a few days. (95 pts.)
This was a great event and my sincere gratitude goes to Bijan for organizing and Bernard and Pierre for their presence and sharing their insights. A great time was had by all! |
