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Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Vertical |  (829 page views) | | 12/4/2008 (Trestle on Tenth) |
| | - 2007 Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Nahe
A pungent kerosene/floral nose with corresponding beeswaxy flavors combined with a generous richness of fruit that feels plump and dark at first, then turns brighter, unraveling sumptuous orange/tangerine flavors on the lengthy back end. There's a grinding traction to this wine that gives it a dynamic mouthfeel and an austere solidity. A real beauty that, with the 2006, shows the tröcken expressions are unjustly ignored at this address. (94 pts.)
- 2006 Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Nahe
Relatively mute on the nose in comparison to the 2007, and much deeper and darker in complexion. But it feels fleshier and less acute in texture, eventually turning more pear-like in flavor, then so creamy that it eventually starts reminding me of bananas foster, not just the fruit but also the flambé. The finish is an incredibly lengthy unraveling of white cherries. A beauty and maybe even more fascinating once it warms up when it tastes like it physically turns your mouth into slate. (95 pts.)
- 2007 Weingut Jakob Schneider Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe
A fascinating contrast with the Dönnhoff, it's easy to give this one short shrift since side-by-side it seems the less serious of the two, mostly because it's sweeter and more tropical with a ripe peachy-pear nose. But in fact it's extremely deep-complexioned on the palate with flavors of red cherries and its luscious sweetness in perfect balance. (93 pts.)
- 2007 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe
A sharp and gritty nose; somehow you can tell this will feel angular and crystallized just from sniffing it. Indeed, it's much drier than the Schneider and just as angular and screechy as you expect. The structure is in the foreground with the fruit only barely there until the finish where the cherries poke through. (94 pts.)
- 2002 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe
Very pretty -- has a very light touch today, its roundness a real contrast after the more structured and sharp younger wines. It gets sweeter with time though more as a result of the temperature change than the air, I think. (90 pts.)
- 1998 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe
Nasty cork and just as nasty in the glass. Not even just the usual wet cardboard TCA, this is far skankier. (FLAWED)
- 1990 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe
Sadly over the hill despite some initial promise. Dark golden Sauternes-like in color, it starts out with an expressive scent like a basket of red fruits with a strong cherry flavor; this could almost pass for a rosé! Unfortunately, within a half hour it muddles itself into that generic over-the-hill riesling profile of Mott's apple juice. R.I.P. (79 pts.)
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