| | The Noble Rotters gather for dinner in June 2003, the theme being 1996 vintage wines. Of course, a few bottles just missed the cut-off… - 1996 Yalumba Shiraz D Black - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
A fine bead emphasis the sweetness of the mulberry fruit, and although the palate coverage is impressive, this slightly simple wine finishes a bit short. Quite pleasant, but not a profound wine.
- 1996 Peter Lehmann Sémillon Barossa - Australia, South Australia, Barossa
Labelled 'Museum Release' so I'll hope this is the right wine. Yellow verging on gold. A touch of sweet wood, with marmalade & honey fruit, and almost a wisp of botrytis appears on the nose. The palate is all mouthfeel, with the acid very soft, and no trace of primary fruit remaining. Finishes very dry and perhaps a little hollow – the signs of oxidation beginning to become apparent. Still pleasant, although a glass or two is enough. No improvement left here – drink up!
- 1996 Dulong - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion
Oh dear. If I was familiar with the minutiae of Bordeaux negotiants I could probably tell you something about Dulong. On the evidence of this wine my time would have been wasted. A pale brick red. Thin watery nose of rotten, unripe vegetables overlaid with a touch of VA. On the palate….you’re joking, right? No one would put this in their mouth!
- 1995 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
Lugged back as hand luggage from the US several years ago, this appears as a deep red black colour, with aromas of strong ripe blackberry fruits. Powerful if a little rustic – despite the strong initial impact on the palate it finishes a little short – although it’s a very good wine. Possibly suffered alongside the 96 Ridge...
- 1996 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Estate - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
A deep red, this has a rich toasty nose of still-fresh cabernet fruit. Tannins have softened a little, the oak is not dominant on the palate. Has come together nicely, but still appears to have life left to develop some more complexity. Lovely wine. Wouldn’t have been at all out-of-place in a line up of top Oz cabernets – which is not a comment on the relative merits of either, rather a reflection on the similarity of styles.
- 1996 Mitchelton Shiraz Print - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria
Strong aromas of spearmint, with slightly stalky overtones on the nose. On the palate, the fruit is subdued, but overwhelmed by a rush of astringent tannins that camp with a swirl of coconut and refuse to leave centre stage. Its already 7 years old – will the balance improve…? Hmmm.
- 1996 Normans Old Vine Shiraz - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
The label is noticeably coy about the exact origin of the grapes making up this wine. It has peppermint & menthol aromas, with some nebulous red berry flavours, and moderately fine tannins on the palate. It’s clean and well made, perhaps not hugely exciting. Not as polished as the Mitchelton, by a more satisfying wine, by virtue of its better balance & integration.
- 1996 Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
A lovely nose of ripe cherries & strawberries, with a veiled earthy overlay. Nicely weighted wine, with a delicate balance of fruit & structural components. Very good. Pinot can be satisfying for a semi-sensible price!
- 1995 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
A hefty mouthful of ripe alcoholic wine. Strong stewed berry aromas & flavours, boosted by high alcohol. The raisined quality carries through on the palate, which shows a long, savoury rather than sweet, powerful finish. Within balance, however, and very palateable.
- 1996 Lindeman's Cabernet Sauvignon St. George - Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra
I really can’t get past a hugely US-oaked nose on this wine. There is a hint of buried blackberry fruit, but really the palate’s all tannin. And yet it finishes rather short, despite the astringency. I tasted this exactly 5 years ago at the Hunter Valley CD, and the tannins appear to have receded not one jot. Not drinkable yet! May one day come together, but I wouldn’t like to put the house on it…
- 1996 Château Chasse-Spleen - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc
After the preceding wines, this just screams Bordeaux. A restrained cedary nose leads to medium weight flavours of faintly leafy, not unripe fruit. The tannins are still a little dominant, but not to the extent of the St George. Surprisingly persistent length. Very good wine.
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