Bryan's Dinner Party Offline

The Ledbury, London
Tasted Wednesday, July 7, 2010 by SimonG with 775 views

Introduction

As others have commented the perfect setting for enjoying fine wine. It felt a little rushed at the start with the fizz flight only just being started when the first course and the Chablis arrived, but after that it settled to a very comfortable pace allowing us to enjoy some lovely bottles in their proper context - at the table with fine food and knowledgable fellow diners.

Flight 1 - Aperitif (2 Notes)

A fishy puree on a crispy tuille base

Flight 2 - Paupiette of Turbot with almond praline and crab (2 Notes)

Stunning nutty texture and flavour here - very much like a slightly sweet satay.

  • 1999 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Deepish gold but slightly lighter than the 96 Rav Clos alongside. Leaner nose, though this is starting to open up just as I've finished my glass. Mineral, slightly saline. Rounder, more generous on the attack, fruit properly ripe. Shows a more classic mineral middle and finish with decent grip. Lacks a little weight and intensity of minerality cf previous bottles, possibly because not decanter or given the chance to open up as previous bottles have. Good though. ***1/2

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  • 1996 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Slightly fuller yellow than the Fevre 99 Preuses. A slightly honied nose with richness and depth behind it. More body here. Rich, mineral and saline palate. Good grip and length. Proper. Just getting there. First time a Raveneau had really wowed me. ****

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Flight 3 - Fillet of sea trout with hispi cabbage and smoked bone marrow (2 Notes)

Flight 4 - Breast of guinea fowl with aubergine glazed in black sugar and garlic (2 Notes)

  • 1983 Marc Sorrel Hermitage Le Gréal

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Full ruby to deep garnet. Slightly bloody, meaty, sweet-fruited nose. Lots of fine sediment. Sweet old syrah fruit, crying out for game. Old fashioned, uncompromising, slightly rustic and very lovely. ****

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  • 1990 Marc Sorrel Hermitage Le Gréal

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Almost purple on the rim, this looks far younger than it should. Quite a subdued nose. Very very young. Quite a tannic grip. Needs
    years on this showing ***(*?)

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Flight 5 - Suckling pig with grilled onions, girolles and truffle (2 Notes)

Flight 6 - Sauternes custard with apricot, passion fruit and dried orange (2 Notes)

Couldn't have had a better match for the 89 Climens

  • 1989 Château Climens

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Riper nose, slightly volatile. Gorgeous palate though. Sweet, ripe, long, luscious, lovely. Stunning match with the pudding. ****1/2

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  • 1996 Château Climens

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Quite a full colour, barley sugar nose, just a little heavy and simplistic on the nose really. Bette ron the palate. More linear, sweet, decent line. Good ***1/2

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Flight 7 - Quick Sips from the other table's wines (9 Notes)

Closing

My WOTN from Table 1 was a close run thing but I think the 91 Suchots very closely followed by the 78 Leoville B. But then there was the Raveneau, and the Rose de Jeanne, and the Bolly and the 83 Sorrel. Invidious really to pick one out. Suffice to say it was a very very good selection of wines served in a hard to better setting. Bravo Bryan. I'll hope for another one.

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