Burgs at APFW Relocation Sale

Elsa and I went to APFW to pick up some wines and did a quick taste through the Burgs on show. Most were not bad, but I did not like them all that much save for the 2003 Humbert Freres Estournel St Jacques, which was a surprise with its quality and balance.

• 2003 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Lovely on the nose, not so lovely on the palate. All in all a fairly decent wine, but not up to Roulot's normally high standards. Started out very promisingly, with subtle, classy accents of white fruit, floral tones, gentle minerality and creme fraiche on the nose. Attack was decent too, with lots of nice minerality, white fruit and plenty of freshness for a 2003. Past the mid-palate, the wine went just a bit disjointed though, with acid, mineral and fruit all in different places, along with a slight bitterness running through the finish.

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• 2003 Verget Meursault Les Tillets Caniculus 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Strange wine this - lots of quality, but slightly marred by certain 2003 vintage characteristics. Nice enough nose - very ripe grapefruit, peaches, nice earthy mineral, some flowers and plenty of buttery, nutty Meursault tones. Attack on the palate was nice and clean, with a bit of acid adding relief to rather ripe yellow fruit, but it all got a little foggy once the wine hit the palate in earnest, with slightly cooked notes and a bit of heat on the otherwise minerally finish. Overall, a decent wine, but not great.

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• 2004 Frédéric Magnien Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Perrière 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  I'm not usually a big fan of F. Magnien, but this was rather decent in a straightforward, modern, easy drinking way. Plenty of sappy cherries on the nose, along with a touch of earthiness and a whiff of flowers, all seasoned with very 2004 ginseng herbs and wild thyme notes. I liked the clean, pure dark cherry expressions on the palate, as well as the nice, fresh balance. What was not that pleasing was the dried herb backbone lingering in the background, especially towards the finished, where they showed rather bittersweet. All in all though, a pleasant enough wine, and one that should give some pleasure with a simple meal.

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• 2003 Domaine Humbert Frères Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles-St.-Jacques 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Who would have thought? The 2003 turned out to be the best Burg on show. Nice nose, rather new worldly, with lots of ripe red fruits in the shape of cherries and red-currants, along with earth and peppery spice and a rather rubbery hints. Palate had nice, sweet cherry tone, earth, a little meatiness and just a touch of herbs. Very nice lines on this wine, and pretty impressive balance, especially for a 2003. Finish was decent too, with earthy mineral and another seasoning of herbs.

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• 2001 Domaine Humbert Frères Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Petite Chapelle 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Surprisingly mediocre for a 2001 1er Cru. Far from undrinkable, but not one I would consider buying. Nose was nice enough, with sweet cherries, earthy spice, herbs and meaty inflections. Very attractive, but it really flattered to deceive. The palate was far simpler, with sweet cherries mixed with thyme-like herbs about the only things showing along with a touch of alcohol, which I thought was even more obvious than on a 2003 1er Cru tasted alongside. Finish was fairly decent, but had a heightened herbalness to it, almost bittersweet in its aspect. Not all that pleasant. Overall, a fair wine for drinking, but not exactly what I expected.

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