The French Laundry...21 Courses, 11 Wines, Infinite Memories
The French Laundry (Yountville, Napa Valley, California)
Tasted Saturday, July 21, 2007 - Sunday, July 22, 2007 by La Cave d'Argent with 1,883 views
Introduction
My wife, Cathleen, and I were able to partake in a memorable wine and food extravaganza with some dear friends in 2007. This event was originally posted in the Squires forum of eRobertParker, and is now being re-published here. Fellow board member, Ken Emery, and his lovely wife, Amy, were kind enough to invite us to their home for a weekend to celebrate Amy's very special "milestone" birthday. Also present were Ken Johnson and his daughter Kate. Kate had recently had her own "milestone birthday" (the "big" 21).
Flight 1 - Day 1 (Act I) (1 Note)
After some shopping in San Francisco and a great lunch at the Slanted Door, the festivities truly began when Ken Emery opened a large can of fresh Tsar Nicolai Osetra caviar, accompanied by a magnum of Louis Roederer Cristal 1985. Medium yellow-gold in color, the Cristal sported a brisk tiny bead and an explosively intense nose of toasted bread, nutmeg, orange zest and hazelnuts. Medium-bodied on the palate and with crisp acidity, the wine appeared to be very youthful. The flavors were comparable to the nose, the texture creamy and the finish extremely long. At this point, this wine from magnum scores an unblinded 99 and should drink well for at least another 10 or even 15 years.
Flight 2 - Day 1 (Act II) (1 Note)
The decadence of fresh caviar and Cristal could only be followed by seared foie gras in conjunction with Château d’Yquem 1986. Showing a deep gold/rust robe, the Yquem had a moderately intense nose which was dominated by peach, pear and honey aromas. Full-bodied/syrupy on the palate and with nice acidity, the flavors mirrored the nose and proceeded to a long, smooth finish. My unblinded score was 94, with the comment that the wine should drink nicely for the next 15-20 years. The Yquem/foie gras match was magical!
Flight 3 - Day 1 (Act III) (3 Notes)
The next wines were served as a trio in conjunction with grilled ribeye steaks (from Flannery's) and pom frites (prepared at the Emery home in duck fat and served with truffle salt). They included Château Lynch Bages 1985, which had been decanted approximately one hour prior to serving. Showing a deep garnet robe and a garnet-brick rim, the nose on this wine was explosive, with a bouquet of saddle leather, black cherry, anise and tar. Medium-to-full-bodied on the palate and with low acidity, the tannins had all but melted away and the flavors were similar to the nose. The finish was long and smooth. Having purchased a generous amount of this wine upon release (my wedding anniversary year), I have consumed it periodically over many years. I still maintain that this is the most hedonistic Lynch Bages ever produced. It is currently on plateau or in slow decline. My unblinded score was 94. It should continue to drink nicely (assuming pristine cellaring) for another 5-7 years. Comparable in enjoyment to the Lynch Bages was the Château Pichon-Lalande 1985. The color on this wine was similar to the Lynch Bages but slightly less deep. The nose showed a very intense, complex bouquet of bing cherries, leather, savory and (yes) bacon fat. Medium-bodied on the palate and with low-to-medium acidity, the tannins in this wine had likewise all but melted away. The complex flavors were presented with a silky texture which carried through the middle palate and led to a long, smooth finish. This wine is still delicious at this point and merited an unblinded score of 93, but would best be drunk over the next five years. While the preceding two wines were outstanding, the star of the trio was clearly the Château Margaux 1986. Decanted 3-4 hours in advance, this wine showed a youthful opaque red/garnet robe with a garnet rim. At the table, the nose opened over a an additional 60 minutes and I strongly suspect that we consumed the wine prior to when it would have peaked during the evening. The nose was very intense, revealing somewhat primary flavors of black currents, mint, chocolate and coriander. The wine was full-bodied on the palate and showed medium acidity. Big coarse tannins were still in control but the underlying fruit was plentiful. Only time is needed for this gem to fully strut its stuff. My unblinded score was 95+ , with an anticipated drinking window of 2012 to 2030.
Flight 4 - Day 1 (Act IV) (1 Note)
There was a lull in the action between the Flannery prime ribeyes and our dessert course. Feeling a deep sense of deprivation with respect to Bordeaux, Ken Johnson opened another 1986 (in selfless tribute to Kate). The bottle which he chose was the Château Pape Clement 1986. This beauty was consumed on its own, without any food accompaniment to bale it out. Fortunately, it sang like a canary and did not need any food’s help. Deep red/garnet in color, the wine showed perhaps the most amazing bouquet of the evening…assorted black fruits, smoked meat and earth aromas were not subtle! Full-bodied and with medium acidity on the palate, this Pape Clement showed more tamed tannins than the Margaux. The flavors were luscious and were dominated by smoked meats, black cherries, sage and anise. The finish was long and smooth. My only criticism of this wine is that it was slightly thin in the middle, and therefore only warranted a meager score of 93. This ‘86 is drinkable now and should perform nicely for the next 8-10 years.
The gluttony concluded with homemade (freshly-picked) lavender ice cream as well as homemade (San Francisco Ferry Building Farmers’ Market) strawberry ice cream. The strawberry ice cream was laced with Scharffen Berger bittersweet chocolate chips. We resurrected the Yquem for this course, which had not been fully consumed with the foie gras. Another great match!
Flight 5 - Day 2 (Act I) (1 Note)
Day two began in the early evening with a limousine ride from the Emery's beautiful home in Piedmont to the Napa Valley. Our journey in a limousine was made extra special with the Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 1996. As was the case with all wines served on the previous evening, this was consumed from elegant Riedel Sommelier series stemware. Medium yellow-gold and with a lively tiny bead, this was a vibrant, youthful Champagne which showed an amazing bouquet of figs, toasted bread, cardamom and lemons. Medium-to-full-bodied on the palate and with refreshing acidity, the flavors mirrored the nose. The finish on this beauty went on and on. Unblinded, I gave the wine 97 points and I anticipate that this is a Champagne which should drink nicely through the next decade.
Arriving in the Napa Valley a bit in advance of our reservation at the French Laundry, our driver headed north for a quick look at Darryl Sattui’s Castello di Amorosa. Although the moat had not yet been filled, the structure is certainly something to behold. Given the fact that we were there in the early evening, coupled with our time constraints, we did not view the interior. I can only imagine what this castle must be like on the inside! Maybe next trip.
Flight 6 - Day 2 (Act II) (1 Note)
At the French Laundry, we were immediately welcomed and seated at a round table for six on the first floor of the restaurant. Ken and Amy Emery selected a bottle of Jacques Selose V.O. Extra Brut from the restaurant wine list. The selection was aided by "Michael", our sommelier. Executive Sommelier Greg Castells also visited our table and provided additional information about this small-production Champagne which is made in solera-style. The wine was served with gourges with Gruyère cheese and carried on into the ensuing courses of salmon cornets and chilled cucumber soup. Medium-yellow and with a moderately-active small bead, the moderately-intense nose showed notes of citrus, beeswax and marzipan. Full-bodied on the palate and with good crisp acidity, the flavors were similar to the nose and led to a medium-length finish. While a nice accompaniment to the various dishes, this wine was (perhaps unfairly) sandwiched between two sparkling gems and warranted a (relatively) low but respectable unblinded score of 90. It should drink well for at least another 8-10 years.
Flight 7 - Day 2 (Act III) (1 Note)
The next two courses were sublime and could only be accompanied by a sparkling wine as elegant as the Moet Chandon Dom Perignon Rose 1986. "Oysters and Pearls" is a signature dish of the French Laundry, consisting of pearl tapioca with beau soleil oysters and white sturgeon caviar. This dish was absolutely delicious and would be worth the trip even if nothing else had been served! The subsequent course was a generous piece of grilled Thai red snapper served with marinated baby mizuno and soybeans (from Jacobsen Farms) and Rangpur lime. The Dom Rose showed a beautiful medium salmon-colored robe and a very active bead for a mature Champagne. The bubbles could only be described as micro in size. The dominant aromas on the nose were those of strawberries, nutmeg, bread dough and coriander. Medium-bodied on the palate and with a full creamy-textured middle, the flavors were comparable to the nose and the finish was very long. The crisp acidity yet creamy nature of this Champagne made for a nearly perfect match with both courses. I scored this wine a conservative (unblinded) 95. It should remain delicious for at least 5-8 more years.
Flight 8 - Day 2 (Act IV) (1 Note)
Little did I know that this ethereal evening was only in its infancy. The next course was braised escargot from Mary's Garden. This was served in Bordelaise, garlic (poached five times in milk) and baby romano beans from Jacobsen Farms. Following the escargot was a course of white truffle-infused custard with black truffle ragu and chive potato chip. This was beautifully served in a hollowed out egg shell, where the upper portion of the shell (which had been removed) was just slightly larger than the diameter of the spoon. Amazing! Both dishes screamed for white Burgundy, and the Etienne Sauzet Batard-Montrachet 1992 did not disappoint. Medium yellow-gold in color and showing an explosive, perfumey bouquet of white flowers, wet stones, pine nuts and orange zest, this wine just kept getting better with every sip. Showing medium body, medium acidity and an unctuous texture, the flavors likewise exploded on the attack and middle palate. The finish was long and extremely smooth. A conservative unblinded score of 97 was assigned to this wine, which we all referred to as the "bad boy". Anyone lucky enough to have a bottle in his or her cellar will not be disappointed if they open it during the next 6-8 years.
Flight 9 - Day 2 (Act V) (1 Note)
The next course was a refreshing salad of toybox heirloom tomatoes, served with burrata, garlic melbas, Greek basil and aged balsamic vinegar. This was followed by a course of moulard duck foie gras en terrine, with Mariposa plums, shaved young ginger, Tokyo turnips and watercress leaves. The foie gras cried out for aged Sauternes, and this cry was adeptly answered by the Château Suduiraut 1967. Showing an attractive medium deep copper color and a very intense bouquet of caramelized white peaches, apricots and honey, this full-bodied, syrupy "sticky" had great acidity, a full middle and a finish which lingered on and on. It merited an unblinded score of 94 and should continue to drink nicely through the next decade. This wine was an excellent match with the foie gras and would be resurrected later in evening to accompany one of the desert courses (as noted below).
Flight 10 - Day 2 (Act VI) (1 Note)
At this point in evening, going from one ethereal wine to another was becoming routine but not unappreciated. The next wine, again kindly provided by Ken and Amy Emery, was the Etienne Sauzet Montrachet 2002. Light-to-medium yellow in color and showing a somewhat muted nose initially, the wine opened beautifully over the next two courses, showing floral and mineral aromas in conjunction with pears and cardamom. Full-bodied on the palate and showing the same unctuous texture as its older “bad boy” sibling, the wine showed nice crisp acidity, a full middle and long finish. I scored the wine an unblinded 93+, noting that it clearly needed time to adequately strut its stuff. In my opinion, it would be best to wait at least five more years before revisiting this wine. Thereafter, it should carry at least through the next decade. Despite its immaturity, it was a pleasant match with the lovage shaved fresh black truffle (farm raised in Australia) risotto, served with summer corn. The wine was probably even a better match with the sautéed fillet of Atlantic hake, which was served with green cabbage, clam pudding and pimenton. It even carried well into the subsequent course of grilled Mediterranean octopus with Brentwood corn, green almonds, piquillo peppers and Haas avocado coulis.
Flight 11 - Day 2 (Act VII) (1 Note)
Our next course was an exquisite New Bedford sea scallop, served with black truffle puree, summer squash and Nage de Coquilles St. Jacques. An exquisite dish such as this could only be served with an exquisite wine, which indeed would be the description of the Domaine de la Romanee Conti Romanee St. Vivant 1985. Showing a medium red-garnet robe with garnet rim, the nose on the wine was 4+ intense (a code in my notes to which I equate with “explosive”) from the get-go. Cherry, mocha, damp earth, strawberry, black tea and mint aromas were easily dissected from the ultra-complex bouquet. Medium-body, medium acidity and melted tannins characterized the palate. The flavor profile was as complex and pleasurable as the nose, and the finish seemed to last forever. Again erring on the conservative side, the wine garnered an unblinded 96 in my book, with a drinking window between now and 2012. And to think that the two previous times that Amy had tried this wine she had been greeted with TCA!!! Our birthday diva was pleasantly surprised.
Flight 12 - Day 2 (Act VIII) (1 Note)
It was finally time for me to make one of my (minimal) contributions to this wine and food orgy. Reflecting the main focus of my cellar, the next wine to be served was the Château Lafite-Rothschild 1989. Showing a youthful deep ruby robe with red rim, the nose on this wine, while quite intense, remained somewhat immature, with currants, plum, cedar and mint aromas. Full-bodied on the palate, with low-medium acidity and big ripe tannins, the flavors followed the nose. The finish was long and fairly smooth. This Lafite is still quite young. I scored it 94+, with a recommended drinking window between 2015 and 2030. Despite its immaturity, it was an excellent match with the Elysiran Fields (Pennsylvania) saddle of lamb (with Yukon gold potatoes in duck confite), followed by "chateaubriand" of Marcho Farm nature-fed veal, bluefoot mushrooms, globe artichokes, sweet coriander carrots, wilted Swiss chard and barigoule emulsion.
Flight 13 - Day 2 (Act IX) (1 Note)
Our always-generous friend, Ken Johnson, provided the wine for the next course, which was a tomme brulee’ with pistachio and bing cherry pureed parsley. What better than the Château Angelus 1990 as an accompaniment? This wine, deep garnet in color, showed an intense bouquet of creme de cassis, smoke and exotic spices. Full-bodied on the palate and still quite youthful, this Angelus showed low acidity, big sweet tannins and a voluptuous texture. The finish was long but still a bit coarse. My unblinded score was 91+, feeling that the wine still needs more time. I would not re-visit this wine until 2010, anticipating that it should drink well at least until 2025.
Flight 14 - Day 2 (Act X) (1 Note)
Remaining in Bordeaux-phase, our next wine was the fabled RMP 100-pointer, Château Beausejour (Duffau Lagarrosse) 1990. Another gem provided by Ken Johnson, this wine was the accompaniment to Wagyu sirloin, Nameko mushrooms, short-grain rice in rendered foie gras fat and pea tendrel. Amazingly youthful in appearance (deep ruby with red rim) and youthful on the nose (black currants, plums, cocoa, minerals and roasted meats), this was a monster of a wine, not even remotely close to its peak. Taking the term "full-body" to a new definition, this low-acidity, hugely tannic beauty showed similar primary flavors, a full middle and a long finish. This is an absolute blockbuster but is infantile and needs and minimum of five more years before a re-visit. Thereafter, it should drink well into my personal geriatric period (2030+). My final score was a "tentative" 95+, almost assuredly to increase with time.
Flight 15 - Day 2 (Act XI) (1 Note)
How can any of this get better? Well it does...how about rouelle of Four Story Hills Farm poularde, wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon, royal Blenheim apricots, cipollini onions, tarragon and Dijon mustard? Follow that with tete de cochon, with melted Swiss chard, potato puree and bliss maple syrup. What would you serve this with? The perfect match, of course…the Chave Hermitage 1989. Deep red in color with a garnet rim, this spectacular wine showed my "4+" bouquet of chocolate, black and red fruits, pomegranate, underbrush and a touch of menthol. Full-bodied on the palate, with medium acidity, big ripe tannins and a long, smooth finish. This wine warrants a very conservative 95+, as it is still clearly on the upswing. For anyone lucky enough to have this in his or her cellar, my personal recommendation would be to not open it before 2010. It should drink beautifully until 2025 or beyond. Amy had a big smile on her face at this point.
Flight 16 - Day 2 (Act XII)
As we all "nursed" our favorite wines (of those mentioned above), each diner had his or her favorites in front of the plate when the next courses were served. This was an amazingly educational experience, as we mixed and matched various wines with brin d’amour, sunchokes, toasted pine nuts, arugula and picholine olive vinaigrette, followed by Silverado Trail strawberry sorbet ("au granite de tomates"), Amedei bitter chocolate pave (with big chocolate truffle and Terzi coffee bavarois) and peach melba with raspberry mousse, peach sorbet, raspberry sable and coulis de Framboises. OK…No big discussion required here. It was the Château Suduiraut 1967 (described above) that stole the show. Absolutely (to use RMP’s terminology) liquefied Viagra with the peach melba.
Closing
I cannot say enough about the food and service at the French Laundry. The evening described above was, without question, the most memorable wine and food experience in my life. I must express my extreme gratitude to our host and hostess, Ken and Amy Emery. Comparable gratitude goes to Ken Johnson, who never fails to provide amazing wine and culinary contributions to any event. Beyond our personal group, I must express my utmost appreciation to Thomas Keller and Corey Lee (for such unsurpassed creativity and attention to detail). Our sommeliers (Michael and Gregory) were amazing. Last, but certainly not least, are the "10+" kudos to our "Captain" of the evening, Milton Higgins. Amazingly knowledgeable, professional, hospitable and humble (as well as every other positive adjective you could use), Milton made our evening soar to 110 on a scale of 100.
1985 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut 99 Points
France, Champagne
(7/21/2007)
After some shopping in San Francisco and a great lunch at the Slanted Door, Amy Emery's 40th birthday festivities truly began when Ken Emery opened a large can of fresh Tsar Nicolai Osetra caviar, accompanied by a magnum of Louis Roederer Cristal 1985. Medium yellow/gold in color, the Cristal sports a brisk tiny bead and an explosively intense nose of toasted bread, nutmeg, orange zest and hazelnuts. Medium-bodied on the palate and with crisp acidity, the wine appears to be very youthful. The flavors are comparable to the nose, the texture creamy and the finish extremely long. At this point, this wine from magnum scores an unblinded 99 and should drink well for at least another 10 or even 15 years.
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