Chablis Grand Cru chez Daniel Boulud

at the restaurant
Tasted Wednesday, June 16, 2010 by Erik12903 with 509 views

Introduction

Food by Daniel Boulud, composed to match the chablis flights, handpicked by Daniel Johnnes. All of the vignerons were present as we tasted through Chablis' grand crus terroirs. The wines served from Magnums, except for the surprise wine at the end.

Flight 1 - Aperitifs (5 Notes)

Aperitif wines that would be serious contenders in the company of many other chardonnay wines

Flight 2 - Madai ceviche, watercress bavarois, shaved radishes (2 Notes)

This was the most fun tasting flight in that the Vaudesir and the Valmur were very different in style: finesse versus power; elegance versus richness

  • 2005 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    This has a superbly elegant and interesting nose: grass, wet stone, exciting things happen to the aromas during the whole evening, including as the wine warms up to room temperature.
    In the mouth this is the most light of all the grand crus tonight; like an arrow, that's how structured and tight this is on the palate. Lovely.

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  • 2005 Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Fantastic: this is a round and fat grand cru with a whole host of expressive flavors on the palate: including trending towards some more tropical fruit to complement classic chablis. This is soft and fine, I wrote, but deceptfully so, as I think there is a lot of structure here and this could last a long time compared to the Vaudesir by Christian Moreau tasted side by side. The wine that was closest in style to the two examples of Les Clos that we had later on.

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Flight 3 - Dover sole stuffed with morels: fiddleheads and lovage emulsion (2 Notes)

This was the best match between food and wine. Incredible. I must admit that the matchmaking may have introduced a slight bias in favor of these wines. I also seem to prefer 2006 ahead of 2007 as a general experience.

Flight 4 - Duo of rabbit: foie gras stuffed saddle, young spring vegetables, braised leg fleischnecke, sage jus (2 Notes)

Just very impressed that these wines stood up to such rich food. Les Clos - my favourite grand cru (I understand that there may be more who have similar inclinations).

Flight 5 - Cheeses: Selles sur cher, tomme de la chataigneraie, comte aged 18 months (5 Notes)

The wines were fine, but not all could take on the cheese. Perhaps a younger vintage of the first two wines would have done the trick.
The last wine was a surprise and it was served from a "Gargante" (never heard of it, but it looked like it was in the Jeroboam-Rehoboam span)

Closing

What a treat. I can heartily recommend it :)

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