Produttori del Barbaresco: What every Nebbiolo lover should know
Braeburn Restaurant
Tasted Monday, August 23, 2010 by Eric Guido with 1,140 views
Introduction
The Produttori del Barbaresco is, without a doubt, the largest producer of quality-to-price ratio wines in Piedmont. With access to nine highly esteemed vineyards and a grower’s cooperative that is focused on quality wine production, the Produttori is able to provide a portfolio of Nebbiolo-based wines that can satisfy any palate and fit into any budget. The declassified Nebbiolo ($15 - $17) is one of the best in the region for the price and the Barbaresco normale ($25 - $35) can stand tall against its higher-priced competition in most vintages. For the serious nebbiolofile, the single cru riservas ($40 - $50) are all beautifully unique examples of Barbaresco and capable of aging for decades.
Our tasting group convened at Braeburn Restaurant in the west village to taste through 11 bottles spanning eight vintages of Produttori del Barbaresco. Initially the idea was for bottles from 1990 or older, but after hearing high praise for the recently released 2006 Barbaresco, it was decided to include a bottle for an early peak into its evolution. I will say early on that I’m glad we did because the 2006 was spectacular.
Flight 1 - Old bones, yet beautifully alive. The 1967 will be a wine I’ll remember for a long time. (2 Notes)
Flight 3 - The structured vintage (1 Note)
I’ll admit that I expected more form this wine, but I suppose that’s the problem with preconceived notions. It’s possible that it couldn’t live up to the hype I had expected on this night; it may bloom in a few years, but only time will time.
Flight 4 - “It was hard to not make good Nebbiolo in 1990” (4 Notes)
“It was hard to not make good Nebbiolo in 1990” were the words from one taster’ lips. 1990 is showing to be a truly great year for Produttori del Barbaresco. The last time I tasted through so many vintages, it was the ’85’s that truly stood out as the drinking vintage; but after last night, I’m willing to put the ’90’s high on my list of priorities. If you want high quality, mature Nebbiolo, 1990 is drinking very well.
Flight 5 - High Praise (but not where you'd expect) (2 Notes)
The 2000 vintage received such high acclaim from critics when the bottles first hit the market, but now we are watching as these wines battle with issues of balance. Unfortunately, I feel that the 2000 Rabaja is suffering the same fate. It is a big and, at times unruly wine that’s not completely unenjoyable but it’s certainly not my style.
Closing
If nothing else, this tasting served to prove, once again I might add, that the Produttori del Barbaresco is a force to be reckoned with in Piedmont. Cooperative wineries are not usually held in such high esteem, but in this case, it’s the exact opposite. The Produttori delivers such fine examples of Barbaresco, and at such fair prices, that a lover of Nebbiolo would have to be a fool to pass them up.
1967 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Cavalieri del Tartufo Pajè 93 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
The 1967 Calvalari de Tartufo Paijé Riserva was everything I wanted from an aged Nebbiolo. In this case, the sediment had been mixed in with the wine, yet it detracted only from its appearance. The aromas coming from the glass were of sweet dried raspberry fruit, a hint of Christmas spice, and tobacco, with a soured cream component and dusty potpourri. On the palate this came across as soft, full-bodied and warming, with tight red fruit verging on cranberry, leather and a hint of mineral-like copper penny. The finish was redolent of sour red fruit. I could drink this wine all night. Another taster, whom I respect highly, noted that it was over the hill. He’s probably right, but I loved it all the same.
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1979 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili Flawed
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
The 1979 Produttori del Barbaresco Asili Riserva, came across as slightly corked, but you could still sense this wine’s dark, earthy qualities through it all. On the nose, there was a burst of old library books, but with a little more exploration I found green peas, with dark, almost black fruits and topsoil. The palate showed tight with faded cherry and tar, but it gave way to a pleasant sour red fruit finish. I’d love to try another bottle of this wine to see it in all its glory.
(Not scoring due to flawed bottle)
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