Saxum vs. the field

Palate in Glendale, CA
Tasted Monday, October 4, 2010 by grafstrb with 1,093 views

Introduction

This event came about from me positing that there's a lot of great Central Coast CA Rhone wines out there that don't have "Saxum" on the label, and that I would "relish" the opportunity to pit a couple of my "field" selections against some Saxums in a BLIND tasting. Both of my offerings (Denner and Loring) did, indeed, beat all the Saxums on our table (although I technically did cheat by including the Loring, which isn't a Rhone-style wine).

This tasting was conducted in a blind format, in flights of 2.

Flight 1 - Introductory White (1 Note)

  • 2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    – popped and poured –
    – tasted non-blind over 45 minutes –

    NOSE: pear; white orchard fruits; floral; hint of petrol; unusually intense and complex.

    BODY: medium bodied.

    TASTE: wonderful flavors - underripe pluot, a bit white sugary, but not as much as I would have expected from a Spat. of such tender age; a hint of background diesel; very nicely balanced; this young WS has incredible focus, and drives forward with an intense purposeful determination. Probably the best WS Spat. I’ve yet to taste — give this some time in the cellar and the sky is its limit.

    Gut impression score: 95 - 97

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Flight 2 - Blind Flight 1 (2 Notes)

My winner of this flight was the Ojai.

  • 2007 Saxum Heart Stone Vineyard

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    -- tasted a single glass blind --
    -- decanted for 4 hours before pouring back into bottle 3 hours prior to the tasting --
    -- 65% Syrah, 21% Grenache, 14% Mourvedre --

    Magenta-red color. Medium-full bodied. Red fruits on the NOSE. Initially nothing but sawdust oakiness on the palate, but it did open in the glass to reveal a nice spiciness (which is still probably derived from the oak); soft tannins with no noticeable acidity; alcohol was a little noticeable; I question this wine’s ability to age. 15.3% alc.

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  • 2003 Ojai Syrah White Hawk Vineyard

    USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

    – tasted a single glass blind over approx. 15 minutes –

    Strawberry red color of great depth. Complex NOSE: flowers, earthy, crayola crayon, a bit alcoholic. On the palate: very oaky, and a bit funky like some Spanish wines, alcoholic; coarse tannins are a bit drying, but the juicy acidity gives this wine nice balance. 14.5% alc.

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Flight 3 - Blind Flight 2 (2 Notes)

My winner of this flight was the Alban.

  • 2005 Alban Vineyards Syrah Reva Alban Estate Vineyard

    USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley

    – tasted a single glass blind over a couple hours –
    -- wine was decanted for 2 hours before being returned to bottle 10 hours before the tasting --

    Very nice NOSE: expressive and spicy; dark fruits; cigar wrapper; slight green/vegetal aspect that I actually enjoyed quite a lot. On the palate: spicy oak with intense loganberry and blackberry fruits; a bit of funk had me thinking perhaps a touch of Mourvedre made its way into this wine – was surprised when it was revealed to be a straight Syrah; well-balanced with drying tannins and juicy acidity; this still needs time, but is shockingly delicious right now; alcohol barely noticeable at all. For me, this wine really stood-out stylistically and qualitatively from all the other wines on the table. Easily my WOTN. Easily in my all-time top 10 CA Rhones. 15.7% alc.

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  • 2008 Loring Wine Company Divergence

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    – tasted a single glass blind over approx. 15 minutes –
    -- wine was double-decanted approx. 11 hours before the tasting --
    -- 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Mourvedre --

    Candied fruits and butterscotchy oak on the NOSE. On the palate: purple fruits; oaky; raisined/pruney – I wrote that I thought this was from a hot vintage. Grippy tannins and juicy acidity make this a well-balanced wine; alcohol only a little noticeable. My 5th favorite wine of the tasting, but it was in tight competition with the 2003 Ojai - White Hawk Syrah and the 2007 Denner - Ditchdigger. 15.3% alc.

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Flight 4 - Blind Flight 3 (2 Notes)

My winner of this flight was the James Berry

  • 2005 Saxum James Berry Vineyard

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    – tasted a single glass blind over approx. 15 minutes –
    -- 71% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache –

    Complex NOSE started-off tight with scents of red fruits (mostly strawberries) and a hint of spice; with some time in the glass, it changed considerably: it became much more expressive, and became more earthy than fruity –– it reminded me a lot of the 2006 Denner - Dirt Worshipper, which is a Cote Rotie - styled Syrah. On the palate: intriguing red fruit/earthy balance with hints of cedar; grippy tannins with noticeable acid –– a little lacking in acid for me, but this is a minor quibble; alcohol not noticeable at all; medium-full bodied. A very nice wine. I strongly prefer this over the 2007 bottling of the same. This was my clear #2 wine of the tasting. 15.5% alc.

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  • 2005 Saxum Cuvée Rocket Block James Berry Vineyard

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Willow Creek District

    – tasted a single glass blind over approx. 15 minutes –
    – wine was decanted for 2 hours before going back into bottle 3 hours before the tasting --
    – 93% Grenache, 7% Syrah --

    This didn’t give much on the NOSE: it was very tight, with a hint of orange oil –– NOSE reminded me of the 2008 Loring - Divergence, but not nearly as expressive. On the palate: creamy; sweet red fruits; oak; hint of spice; full bodied, with soft, round tannins; alcohol is very noticeable –– I recall referring to this as “vodka wine” –– it was pretty bad. 16.4% alc.

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Flight 5 - Blind Flight 4 (1 Note)

The other wine in this flight was the 2007 White Dog - Larner Grenache. It was my least favorite of this tasting. It's not entered into CT, and I didn't feel like "creating" an entry for it just so I could write a bad note for it, hence its absence from this "event" write-up.

My winner of this flight was the Saxum.

  • 2006 Saxum James Berry Vineyard

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    – tasted a single glass blind over approx. 15 minutes –
    – 45% Syrah, 38% Grenache, 17% Mourvedre --

    Very ripe dark fruits (blueberry) on the NOSE, with a speck of citrus oil adding a little something in the way of complexity. On the palate: more of the same –– ripe red fruits; slightly grippy tannins with juicy acidity; nice acid-tannin balance; nice overall structural balance, but nothing to write home about, either. 16.6% alc.

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Flight 6 - Blind Flight 5 (2 Notes)

My winner of this flight was the Denner.

  • 2006 Saxum Bone Rock James Berry Vineyard

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    – tasted a single glass blind over approx. 15 minutes –
    – 76% Syrah, 18% Mourvedre, 6% Grenache –

    NOSE seemed very similar to many of the wines that came before it in this tasting –– nothing really that interesting. On the palate: spicy; oaky; red fruits; not complex; drying tannins, but enough acidity for me to call this well-balanced. Tastes like a typical Central Coast CA Rhone. 16.7% alc.

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  • 2007 Denner The Ditch Digger

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    – tasted a single glass blind over approx. 15 minutes –
    – decanted in-bottle for approximately 5 hours before the tasting –
    – 37% Grenache, 29% Syrah, 26% Mourvedre, 5% Counoise, and 3% Cinsault –

    The distinctive NOSE on this wine made me take notice. Complex red-fruity/earthy/spicy NOSE. On the palate: oaky, and not quite as complex as the NOSE had suggested, but it had a nice fruit/earthy balance with barely noticeable alcohol; this wine positively distinguished itself from the others on the table -- I could tell this was something different, and was ultimately very surprised to discover that I failed to identify blind the wine of which I had sampled a small taste a mere 5 hours before. 15.6% alc.

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Flight 7 - A couple post-event non-blind wines. (2 Notes)

  • 2003 Alban Vineyards Syrah Lorraine

    USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley

    Purple fruits with hints of barely-grilled meat, spices, and v/a on the nose. Monolithic on the palate - dark purple fruit flavors; a bit hot, as well. Didn’t really distinguish itself from the other big-bruiser CA Rhones we had this evening.

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  • 1992 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    A bit tawny on the NOSE, with wafts of alcohol poking through candied red fruits. A tad alcoholic on the palate, with a pleasing pecan-like note providing a nice counterpoint to the inherent sweetness; a touch of funkiness added complexity. This seems as if it’s just starting to show hints of age – I can only guess that this will be stunning in 20 years, as this is the oldest vintage port I’ve tried, and it’s the first I’ve actually enjoyed. Thanks to jdietz for popping this!

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Closing

My overall rankings, from favorite to least favorite
1. 2005 Alaban - Reva Syrah (easily my favorite of the tasting)
2. 2005 Saxum - James Berry (so much better than the ‘06 and ‘07 bottlings of the same, imo)
3. 2003 Ojai - White Hawk Syrah
4. 2007 Denner - Ditchdigger
5. 2008 Loring - Divergence
6. 2006 Saxum - James Berry
7. 2007 Saxum - Heartstone
8. 2006 Saxum - Bone Rock
9. 2005 Saxum - Rocket Block
10. 2007 White Dog - Larner Grenache

For me the Alban was the clear winner of the evening, and the ‘05 James Berry was the clear #2. The wines I ranked 3 through 5 were all very closely clumped together, and were all a clear step or two above the next tier. That “next tier” is comprised of the wines I ranked 6 through 8, which were all Saxums; these all came across as “ho hum CA Rhone wines” to me, and are great examples of my general feeling that “if you like Saxum, then there’s plenty of other similar CA Rhones out there, too.” The ‘05 Rocket Block was a clear step down from the aforementioned “next tier,” and the ‘07 White Dog was a clear last place for me.

Group's voting:
Vote weights were: 5pts for 1st, 3 for 2nd and 1 for 3rd.

1. 2005 Alban Reva .......................5,3,5,5,3,5,5,5 ----- 36
2. 2007 Denner The Ditch Digger ....1,1,3,5,3 -------- 13
3. 2008 Loring Divergence .............5,3,3 ------------ 11
4. 2005 Saxum James Berry .........3,1,3,1 ----------- 8
5. 2007 Saxum Heart Stone ..........1 ------------------ 1
5. 2003 Ojai White Hawk ...............1 ------------------ 1
5. 2006 Saxum James Berry .........1 ------------------ 1
5. 2006 Saxum Bone Rock ............1 ----------------- 1
9. 2005 Saxum Rocket Block .........- ------------------ 0
9. 2007 White Dog Grenache ........- ------------------ 0

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