Glorious Rhône lunch at 28-50

London
Tasted Tuesday, January 11, 2011 by Eric with 971 views

Introduction

Richard Katz kindly organized a dozen folks for a simply glorious tasting of Rhône wines over an all day lunch at the very enjoyable 28-50 Wine Workshop and Kitchen.

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

As we sat down we warmed up with some bubbles.

Flight 2 (2 Notes)

The first course was a FANTASTIC Foie gras and chicken liver parfait with peach chutney and cornichons. This was largely about the really sweet chicken livers with the foie used as an emulsifier instead of butter. Really fantastic and homey dish but with an edge of sophistication.

  • 1989 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Réserve

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    A rather rare and intellectual treat. 50% Grenache Blanc and 50% Clairette apparently. Exceedingly dry, mineral, maybe a touch of smoke. The wine is very memorable, but I am struggling to find descriptors. It definitely struck me more as a wine to consider across many hours.

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  • 1992 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante-Alouette

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Compared to the adjacently tasted 89 Rayas Blanc, this was much more oily yet very dry. A touch of marzipan. Incredible persistence. I had a bit of a preference for the Rayas, but this was a fascinating wine as well.

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Flight 3 (4 Notes)

We started by savoring the 1978 La Chapelle on its own and then the flight of Chave with a main course of either Partridge or a delicious but non-traditional Shepherd's pie (lamb, tomato, aubergine, corgette). Smoky and delicious, I was happy as a pig in muck with this food and flight.

  • 1978 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Wow, wow, wow, this gets an OMFG! Unreal nose, smoked meat and blood and pepper with the volume blaring at 11. This was a mind blowing nose that brought a huge smile to my face with every single sniff. I cannot imagine a better example of a nose on a Hermitage quite frankly. The palate is surprisingly firm, drying slightly. The palate never does quite catch up with the nose, and there was some debate whether more fruit would come out in time. Nonetheless, this is a very special wine an an utter treat to have from such a pristine bottle!

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  • 1982 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    From magnum. Wow, black, stern, lots of iron, yet richly fruited on an amazingly silky and approachable palate. Killer wine delivering so much pleasure. It is hard for me to imagine Hermitage much more satisfying than this. Of all the wines at the tasting, I thought this was at the best spot to drink.

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  • 1983 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Cherry and pepper and funk. This is bright and high-pitched, a soprano to the 1982 that just preceded it. Very feminine and more Burgundian.

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  • 1989 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Very much more ripe with a sweet and primary core. Smoldering intensity. A baby in comparison to the 1982 and 1983.

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Flight 4 (4 Notes)

Beau is one of my favorite producers. This next flight was originally just intended to be 1989, 1990 and 1989 Hommage. However the 1989 regular was corked and replaced by a 1981, and then Richard wandered off and reappeared with the 1983 at some point. He is very useful to have around! The food meanwhile was a perfectly rare Onglet of beef, (thrice fried) chips, and sauce choron. Yummy!

  • 1981 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Lots of the usual black, brooding personality on the nose but followed by a shockingly pure and sweet core. There was an interesting point made that this seemed to share a lot in common with the 1989 Hommage we had later, especially in the ripeness of the Mourvedre. Lovely bottle.

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  • 1983 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    A late entrant to the flight, this was a glorious bottle of the 1983 (probably the best example I have ever tasted). Licorice and white pepper dancing with cherry and garrigue. A much more feminine wine than the 1981, it reminded me quite a bit of good bottles of the 1979 Beaucastel.

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  • 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    This was a murky, cloudy bottle of the 1990 which seemed to bother some people, and I have clearly had better examples of the 1990. Nonetheless, this wine is always a pleasure, and this was its usual garrulous self. Loaded with garrigue and bramble, it has a lovely, exotic ripe and roasted character to it yet finishes with a pleasing dry and herbal edge. This is always such a wine of pleasure.

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  • 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    This is a shocking wine. When I have had it before the nose has been more expressive. This one seemed pretty shut in aromatically. The palate however is insanely concentrated. It is so sweet and easy yet finishes with almost formidable structure that still wraps your palate a minute after you have swallowed. My notes finish with "almost criminally concentrated." This seems to have two decades before it starts to really unwind.

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Flight 5 (2 Notes)

Finally with some cheese a final pair of great contrast.

  • 1990 Domaine des Rémizières Hermitage

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    From magnum. This had a surprising nose of baked apple. Ripe, easy, sweet and approachable with that baked character continuing. There is a very nice vein of fresh acidity than underlies this and makes it quite easy to sip.

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  • 1990 Noël Verset Cornas

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

    A massive contrast to the prior wine and a textbook old-school Cornas. Incredibly savory, animal and dark with an insane nose of black olive tapenade. Really lovely wine.

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Closing

Great fun, thanks for all the terrific wines! Fantastic tasting!

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