Catching Up: 4 Bubblies

You know those wines that accumulate because so many people bring them as hostess gifts when you entertain? Well, I've got a big stockpile of Veuve NV. Time to lower the count by one.

• NV Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Imperial Rosé

  France, Champagne

  (4/6/2006)

  Very pretty deepish copper color with a nicely refined mousse. Nose shows a sweet burst of strawberry fruit, enlivened by a hint of citrus and mineral. Palate shows just a hint of steel in attack and texture, but is really about strawberry and cherry flavors. Not overly sweet, but finishes with a bit of berry sweetness. Simple and direct but actually quite delicious. Lacks the structural elements I love in good rosé Champagne, but a fun bit to sip with my wife on our anniversary evening while we put flowers into vases and helped James with homework. Not everything has to be complex or even in my generally preferred lean style. Another bottle that was a gift from someone else. A nice surprise showing, but not something I’m ever going to buy given the alternatives at the price.

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Sucks when the anniversary falls on a worknight and we can't get out until the weekend. At least we can drink a bit of Chanmpagne.

• NV Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut

  France, Champagne

  (4/12/2006)

  Medium-sized mousse in a strawish-colored wine. Nose of green apple and white plum with a hint of leesiness, but not much else. Palate is very much in balance and shows none of the odd sweetness that has shown in some bottles over recent years. However, it shows a bit of dilution in the middle and nothing of extraordinary interest. Competent, balanced, perhaps better than expected – just nothing to get excited about. Received as a gift, this does better than most such gifts. Pulled from the gift corner, this fills the bill perfectly when one is called upon to serve Champagne to houseguests who don’t give a flip about wine.

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I've tried St. Peray, but never any from Voge. This is the basic bottling. I'm looking forward to trying one of the higher end versions.

• NV Alain Voge St. Péray

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Péray

  (4/14/2006)

  There’s a depth to the yellow that is hinting at gold and at sunny ripeness. Mousse is perhaps a little large, but is nicely persistent. On the nose, honeysuckle flower combines with Champagne-like leesiness to form a rich backdrop for the ripe peach and apricot fruit. On the palate, there is a nice mineral element that props up the very rich Marsanne/Roussane fruit. Finish is rich and not quite cloying, but this would benefit from a touch more acid and a finer mousse. Drank this as an aperitif. I’ll be eager to try with dinner, where I think it will fare better.

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This was the basic free pour at brunch at the club.

• NV Laurent-Perrier Champagne Brut L.P.

  France, Champagne

  (4/16/2006)

  Bright light yellow. Crisp bit of bread with bright white fruit on nose. Palate is crisp and light with a little citrus and light ripe apple. Style is clean and proper blanc de blancs, though there are also pinots noir and muenier in here. Mousse is fine and persistent. In fact everything is here – except any sense of excitement or flavor impact. Good for the situation, as I could absent-mindedly drink three glasses without having to pay attention to it. Yet another wine that is better than most buffet fare, but not something I have any interest in buying.

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