| | Ron Kramer and Joyce were in town to attend a wedding and what better reason for an off-line the evening before than to just ask? Nine Atlanta locals along with another out of town guest, Robert T., met with our guests at the local warhorse for off-lines, Bones Restaurant, which specializes in a carnivore centric menu and an attentive and impeccable wait staff. However, with prom night in full regalia, resplendent with super-stretched white limos, Cinderella’s in sequined gowns, and raging hormones in rented tuxedos, this evening turned the Bones wait staff into a pumpkin mash. I had the pleasure of having one of these “seniors” back into my car in the parking lot. But the bad service aside, it was a very hospitable group to share good food and fine wine. And let me say that, the moment I walked into the room, I knew who Ron was from his avatar. He has lost but just a little of the baby fat and replaced it with a few wrinkles of wisdom. Champagne and crustacean - N.V. Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Cramant, Champagne
Missed this one as I was in the parking lot dealing with a red-headed penguin on prom night crushing the front right quarter panel of my Jeep GC. But his honesty should lead to a promising finish. ;-) No score.
- 1988 Krug Champagne Brut - France, Champagne
Deep, golden hue with near perfect mousse. Detailed, delicate, yet floral nose of toasty nuts and cream. Yeast, biscuits, hazelnuts and almond flavors yielding to vanilla and oak tightly wrapped in sharp, crisp, spry acidity that just explodes on the palate. A tremendous finish that just never quit. (96 pts.)
California Cabernets Notice the detailed notes as the entrees were still far, far away! - 1990 Ridge Monte Bello - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Decanted. Earthy, floral nose with saddle and red fruits with a little funk that blew off with some time in the glass. Flavors were dense, thick, dark cassis, leather, and drawn blood with gobs of earthy barnyard which also settled down. Has a nice mineral quality and a touch of mocha with all of these flavor components well balanced and with ample depth to dwell on. Red fruits appearing on the thickening mid-palate with dusty, and slightly burly tannins on the reasonable finish. (92 pts.)
- 1990 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
Not decanted. Light delicate nose of red fruits but laced with some volatile band aid that slowly burned off. Open structure that turned more solid with time, along with an abundance of cassis flavors and a core of red fruit, turning to cherry. Very fine and consistent texture with tannins still present and followed by a light, persistent finish. (91 pts.)
- 1992 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
Decanted(?) and screened. Red fruit, cassis and light spice aromas. Graceful, seamless and balanced blend of dark cassis, red fruits and a touch of anise spice flavors with some mineral notes. A plush, soft entry that turned silky smooth and gained a touch more spice on the mid-palate with refined and intriguing depth leading to a lengthy, lingering finish that left me wanting more. This had an incredible amount of sediment that fortunately remained in the bottle thanks to the screened stopper. My WOTN - well, ....... other than the '88 Krug. (95 pts.)
California Cabernets Part II Thought we would have had our entrees by this flight, but most of these glasses were empty by the time they arrived. And then further delays with several wrong orders and plates getting mixed up - uugggggggghhh. - 1992 Ridge Monte Bello - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Not decanted? Rich dark cassis and dark chocolate nose that I couldn’t get enough of. Youthfull, dark cassis flavors with vanilla and deep mocha layered nicely with substantial depth. Supple, full, and round body with slightly chalky and still prominent tannins that expanded nicely on the mid-palate with a vigorous finish. This continued to open up the longer it was in the glass and still has plenty of life ahead. This very rich, fruit forward and oak infused California Cab stands in amazing contrast to the more earthy, dense, mineral driven 1990 Monte Bello. (92 pts.)
- 1997 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
Respectable nose, but this is all about the power and intensity of dark cassis, mocha and anise flavors on a strong attack with finely textured tannins in a solid oak frame. Nicely built and still youthful, this brightens at the midpoint and finishes with abundant strength. (93 pts.)
New World Pinot Noir Don insisted on the Burgundy as the last red, but I have to say it wasn’t fair to these transitional Pinot’s, as it was a tough adjustment for me to down shift my palate. The wonderful nuances of Pinot took a while to come around. Most got new stems for this round, but my new stems almost didn’t arrive before the flight ran out. At this point, we were pouring the wines ourselves. I paired the PN’s with the duck breast, which arrived a lot faster than the first entree. - 1999 Beaux Frères Pinot Noir Beaux Frères Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge
Definite Oregon nose and follows through on the fruit flavors. Slightly corked, I hardly spent any time with this. It was also a bit difficult for me transitioning from the Cabs to the Pinot Noir flight and a corked one really jumbled things up a bit for me. No score. (FLAWED)
- 2002 Hartford Court Pinot Noir Arrendell - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Decanted 2hr’s. Good nose of dark cherry and spice. Deep, rich and extracted flavors of dark cherry with an intriguing mix of herbs, hints of earth and anise which increased on the tongue. This has a superb balance of power and elegance in a tightly wound package with a flourishing finish. (94 pts.)
- 2004 Halleck Pinot Noir Three Sons Cuvée - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
My second take on this wine in recent months and it doesn’t disappoint. Rich, lush, sweet cherry with a bright cranberry streak and some pomegranate flavors. Low acidity and light, fine tannins, with a playful palate and a lightly spiced, delightful finish. Abundant fruit with hard to resist, decadent and youthful charms. Decant for enjoyment now and should do well for the next few years. (92 pts.)
- 1994 David Bruce Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Floral, extracted dark cherry nose. Deep, rich, classic RRV dark cherry and clove flavors with a hint of oak well integrated and still showing ample youth, vigor and structure. Flourishes on the mid-palate with a medium finish. (90 pts.)
Old World Pinot Noir These were a real treat to have near the end. I wish that I had more time with these but the evening was running late, and the wait staff was finally servicing us, albeit a bit rushed at this point. - 1995 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
Aromas of rich, dried cherry and minerals. Well integrated and polished flavors of fine cherry deftly balanced against soft, dried rose pedals with just a touch of spice and acidity remaining fine and supple yet with power throughout. Light and lingering finish lives up to the promise. Alluring and stunning – I was left yearning for more of this beauty. (94 pts.)
- 1998 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Cinnamon spice nose. Bing cherry flavors followed with some cinnamon spice and mineral notes. Polished, nicely textured tannins that lighten on the fine finish. (90 pts.)
- 1993 Domaine des Chezeaux Griottes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Bright, wild cherry nose. A beaming, rich core of sweet, almost candied dark cherry, blended effortlessly with some plum, a hint of earthy herbs and a touch of spicy oak. Deep, intense flavor for its age with a medium finish. This could still use some more cellar time. (89 pts.)
Northern Rhone - for those who had to have the lamb chops in lieu of the duck breast - 1983 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Good nose of blue fruits. Soft, yielding, texture along with bushells of blue fruit flavors with vanilla, smoke and white pepper increasing on the short finish. (88 pts.)
Dessert - 1984 Château Rieussec - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Wonderful amber, almost caramel color with exuberant, floral, white raisins on the nose. Rich, succulent honey, white raisins, and dried apricot flavors with a nice toasted, caramel, creme brulee like edge. Nice depth and good acidity, this sweetens and expands towards the long, lingering finish. Wasn’t this an off-vintage for Brdx? (92 pts.)
A rough night for service, but still a great night of wines and good folk. For Bones, this night stands in sharp contrast to the off-line we had there, the “Atlanta Vielles Vignes – Bones and Cabs” off-line, just a few weeks before when they were waiting on us hand and foot. It was however, a true pleasure meeting the gregarious Ron and Joyce, as well as Robert T. And thanks to Don C. for a great job organizing the event. |
