Villie-Morgon, France and environs
Tasted Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - Friday, April 1, 2011 by drwine2001 with 874 views
We were shown the range of 2009s by Agnes Foillard and tracked down the 2007 Cuvee 3.14 at a local restaurant that evening.
Charly himself kindly walked us through both his biodynamic vineyards and 3 of the first 4 vintages he has produced. At the age of 29, he has also taken over the winemaking for his father's property.
We really enjoyed the uncompromisingly lean, stony character of the top Crus here.
Their 2009 Cote de Py was not available, but based upon these 3 wines, the daughter and son team of Claude and Louis are making some exciting wines. The Impenitents was a one off micro-cuvee that is not commercially available, but it may have been the single best wine we had on the swing through this region, and as you can see, there was some pretty stiff competition.
This was one of the most enlightening tastings I have ever been privileged to participate in. After we had a chance to sample 5 different components of the 2010 assemblage out of barrel, Mathieu Lapierre (yet another 29 year old-the fashionable age in Beaujolais, it seems) led us through a six year vertical tasting of this reference Morgon in both its sulfured and natural bottlings. Pretty eye opening with regard to the early deleterious and later beneficial effects of this treatment. Tasting the 2 recent Cuvee Marcel bottlings was also a treat. The spirit of the departed elder Lapierre is still palpable in this cellar in the way Mathieu spoke reverently about his father's efforts on behalf of the domain and for Beaujolais in general.
Michel Tete was incredibly generous with us in opening a full range of wines that included some cellar treasures.
This was not a visit but just an attempt to try as many wines as possible from this producer who is very hard to find in the US.
There is a lot of great stuff happening in Beaujolais winemaking these days. Picturesque villages and great dining also contribute to the pleasure of visitng this region. As far as the new vintage goes, it seems from this limited range of tasting that 2010 will mark a return to a lighter, more delicate, perfumed style of wine after the mammoth 2009s. The ones we tasted were fresh and tended to remind you of 2007s, although I'd guess that they will be more variable and across the board have a litlle less material than the best wines from that year.