Weingut Huber Spatburgunder with Joel Payne + Surprise Dinner

Taberna
Tasted Thursday, April 21, 2011 by ikileo with 1,101 views

Introduction

I attended this guided tasting of German Pinot Noirs at Taberna hosted by the proprietor Ying Hsien and our guest, Head Writer for Gault Millau Guide to German Wines, Joel Payne. His extensive knowledge and experience brought much added value to this tasting. The owner of the importers of Weingut Huber in Singapore, Boon, from Wein & Vin was there as well.

Following the tasting Boon had invited me to join them for a casual dinner at Taberna itself. Other than Joel, Boon and Ying Hsien, there were 3 other guests that joined us for dinner: 2 people from another local wine importer and Andrea Sottimano from Azienda Agricola Sottimano, one of the top Barbaresco producers. He had lots of knowledge to share as well from his extensive wine experiences from around the world and not just Piedmonte.

During the dinner Ying had served us 4 wines blind: a sparkler and 3 reds. Confusion and surprises ensued.

Flight 1 - Tutored Tasting of Weingut Spatburgunder with Gault Millau head writer Joel Payne (6 Notes)

I had had Huber's wine back in 2008 while living in Germany. I didn't know then about the caliber of his wines but I thorough enjoyed his wines then and now. The soils in the Großes Gewächs have the same limestone quality in Burgundy and the Schlossberg plot apparently overlooks across the river to where Timbach grows their grapes for their Cuvee Frederich Emile. Quality soil indeed.

  • 2008 Bernhard Huber Spätburgunder Junge Reben

    Germany, Baden

    Had been opened for over an hour before tasting

    Nose: Light cranberry nose with a dash of dark cocoa. A bit of brown butter and ginseng notes

    Taste: High acid, spicy mid-palate with red fruit all over. Quite clean tasting but could have been a little tart for me.

    Overall this was ok for me but I wasn't crazy about it, primarily due to the tartness of the wine.

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  • 2008 Bernhard Huber Malterdinger Spätburgunder

    Germany, Baden

    Opened for at least an hour before tasting

    Nose: Compared to the Junge Reben of the same vintage this had a touch more vanilla notes along with a hint of ribena and earth notes.

    Taste: A little riper and weightier than the Junge Reben but still balanced out by high acid.

    Overall tasted a little better than the Junge Reben but these two wines are very close in terms of taste profile.

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  • 2004 Bernhard Huber Spätburgunder Alte Reben

    Germany, Baden

    Opened for 1+ hour

    Nose: This one was nice. More animal, blue cheese and Chinese medical hall notes. Nice and mature.

    Taste: Classy and elegant. Smokey with lovely weight and balance. Some chalky elements and bright cherry fruit intermingled with the mature notes. Long finish.

    Overall: This one tastes good. Says a lot about German pinot when done right. Nuff said.

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  • 2007 Bernhard Huber Malterdinger Bienenberg Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs

    Germany, Baden

    Nose: More meaty notes with riper fruits than than the previous 3 in the flight. Notes of olives also appeared on the nose.

    Taste: The quality and purity of the fruit is starting to stand out here. Ripe mid-palate, sweet and savoury notes at the side of my tongue. A lovely fruit and floral aspect on the palate as well.

    Overall, as we are starting to hit the Großes Gewächs level, the quality of fruit and balance really stands out.

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  • 2007 Bernhard Huber Hecklinger Schlossberg Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs

    Germany, Baden

    Nose: Interesting notes of anchovies, red bell peppers and light hints of coffee. They played a background role supporting the lovely pinot red fruit nose.

    Taste: Still relatively primary but showing great finesse and cool climate fruit. Clean, balanced between the fruit and acid. A touch cooler compared to the '05 Schlossberg

    Not showing too much just a high quality of fruit and level of winemaking. Really shows the quality of the Schlossberg.

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  • 2005 Bernhard Huber Hecklinger Schlossberg Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs

    Germany, Baden

    Nose: Loved the hay, mushrooms and minerals along with the amazing fruit in this wine.

    Taste: The ripest of the flight but not over the top. Very masculine but clean cut and very balanced. Supple and powerful for old world Pinot standards.

    Easily the crowd favourite and many have commented this as a dead ringer for one of the better grand cru burgs regions (of which I am not familiar with).

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Flight 2 - Pre-Dinner Tipple (2 Notes)

Ordered a glass of the Vouvray as I love sparkling Vouvray from Domaine Huet. Spoke to a couple about traveling in Tuscany as I will be there next week and they have a vineyard and are neighbours with Fontodi in Chianti. They offered me a glass of a mature Rioja they had just ordered, what a treat!

  • 2005 Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Cuvée Huet Brut

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray Pétillant

    Poured by the glass

    Nose: Nice clean malty and barley nose, green apples, ginger and crushed rocks. Very refreshing and bright nose.

    Taste: Very clean and refreshing again on the palate. Hint of honeysuckle sweetness but attractive flintly quality and a long finish.

    My second sparkling Vouvray from Huet and I am still impressed.

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  • 1995 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 890

    Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

    A couple I was talking to was nice enough to let me have a glass of the wine they were sharing after talking about Spanish wines. My oldest Spanish wine yet!

    Nose: Nice rose and tempranillo red currant notes. But not over the top but rather mature nose with some dried herbs. This has developed rather nicely.

    Taste: Smooth and rather integrated tannins. Sufficient acid for a nice balance of the oak elements and mature fruit. Rustic flavours including leather and brambly quality.

    I believe this bottle was just opened and would have benefited from more breathing to show its full potential but still a delicious and lovely Spanish wine.

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Flight 3 - Blind Dinner (4 Notes)

This was the big surprise of the night. Boon had invited me to join them for dinner at Taberna. With a delicious spread of local Cze Char (mixed Chinese dishes) we were graced by Joel as well as Andrea Sottimano. All served blind and was interesting to see how such experienced wine lovers tried to place each wine. The double whammy of Coteaux Champenois pinot noir was too much for our brains to guess and to handle. Wonderful stuff.

  • NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Les Crayères

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Presented to us as a blind sparkling

    Colour was an exciting amber and orange hue.

    Nose: So many aspects of this nose were amazing. A touch of toffee, beer-like malt, manuka honey and a delicious cider element to this nose as well. Very enchanting.

    Taste: Very elegant, feminine and well restraint. Persistent and fine beads. An interesting mix of white and light red fruit with some toasted barley notes. Very balanced and refreshing. An amazing experience overall.

    Most of the people thought it was a vintage champage from 1996. Apparently this was disgorged in '08 and had been resting on lees for 54 months, so that would put it around 2002.

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  • 2007 Domaine Ostertag Pinot Noir Fronholz

    France, Alsace

    Nose: A wildly interesting note of dill, pickles, citric acid and strawberries

    Taste: Bright red fruit, well rounded with some light secondary flavours but still had a very clean and refined structure. Overall rather delicious and ready to drink.

    The initial nose threw some people off as whether this was a new world wine but the texture and body of the wine drew them back to France.

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  • 2002 Egly-Ouriet Coteaux Champenois Cuvée des Grands Côtés Vieilles Vignes Rouge Ambonnay

    France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois

    Nose: Very pure pure with excellent depth. Very clean with a touch of savoury herbaceousness

    Taste: Not too sure how to describe this but I was wowed by the masculine and restraint of this pinot noir. Sheer elegance and class.

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  • 2002 Larmandier-Bernier Coteaux Champenois Vertus Rouge Premier Cru

    France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois

    This one was the most confusing. From nose the possible contenders could be an old rioja or nebbiolo or pinot. But from the colour and taste it was eliminated to a Pinot. But where? We went all over Burgundy and comparing perhaps a Volnay or a Givry or somewhere else...we ended up back in Champagnois. Considering this was the same vintage as the previous dry red pinot from Champagne in this flight, this one was much more warmer climate.

    Nose: Slight soap quality, rich and complex nose.

    Taste: A well integrated complex and rich pinot noir with hints of licorice. The ripeness made those on the table suggest it was a very modern Burgundy.

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Closing

An amazing evening that I would never have expected. Joining the table and sharing in their knowledge was incredible. Though I was clearly the youngest and least experienced by a mile, they were warm and readily shared their experience and joy of wine. The wines served during the tasting and subsequent dinner were a real treat as well.

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