In which Sharon Bowman cooks dinner for me: Huet, Palmer, Montevertine & more.

My place.
Tasted Friday, April 24, 2009 by BradKNYC with 754 views

Introduction

Wine board vixen, Sharon Bowman, had a plan. "I want to cook for you, Brad." "Sounds great," I replied. "When should I come over?" "Well, no," she responded. "My place is really too small for a jeebus." "Alright. How about we have it at my place and you do all the cooking?" "Perfect!" "Shall I ask the usual suspects," I inquired? "Yes, indeed."

With plans set, out went the call to Joe Dougherty and the Coads who arrived Saturday night, bottles in hands, to enjoy the feast of braised leeks, stewed pork with apricots and prunes and a fine selection of cheeses.

Flight 1 (9 Notes)

  • 2002 Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Brut Flawed

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray Pétillant

    What the? Supposed Chenin Blanc hater Sharon brought this? I guess her reasoning was it's dry and has bubbles, something Ms. Bowman is particularly keen on. Yet, the wine Gods are keenly aware of her deepest feelings about Chenin and sent the dark angel of cork to lay waste to the bottle. NR.

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  • NV Philipponnat Champagne Royale Réserve Brut

    France, Champagne

    Sharon had to have her bubbles, so we opened this. Fresh and round with a delicate mousse. The citrus fruit and apple are ripe and ebullient and there's just a touch of yeastiness. Lovely. Solid B+.

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  • 2005 Domaine de Bellivière Coteaux du Loir Vieilles Vignes Eparses

    France, Loire Valley, Coteaux du Loir

    Sharon had put this in my fridge at an earlier dinner in February and it somehow went unopened. I always find this wine oddly intriguing. Made from 50-80 year old Chenin vines, for some reason the minerality of this wine always manifests itself to me in a bizarre moldy cheese rind-like way. I find it oddly attractive, but with certain fish/shellfish dishes, I find it repulsive. Since there is no fish tonight, I'm enjoying it. Quite rich and maybe a touch hot on the finish, with quince and stone fruit flavors, I guess the sweetness level is in the upper range of demi-sec to moelleux, which kicks off a bet between Sharon and Joe about rs level. Sharon guesses 17 and Joe 12. Turns out it's 20. A-/B+.

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  • 1946 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

    When Dougherty e-mails me that he's bringing this, my initial reaction is ha ha, he's being a jokester again. Having once said to him that I hadn't had a Huet older than '47, knowing full well I don't really like Secs, he bought a '46 sec to a dinner. Well, the word demi makes a big difference and while from a poor vintage, this wine is beautiful. Aromatically it starts with an orange creamsicle character that I know Coad and I usually get in the Mark Angeli- La Lune. There are some earl grey notes, tuffeaux and quince, with the quince getting more pronounced with air. Really vivid and fresh and shows none of the peaty/malty character the '46 sec shows. It just kept getting brighter with air. In fact, despite being 43 years older than the '89 that followed, the fruit was yellower. Mostly dry at this stage, and maybe showing its age a little on the back end, where it's not as complete as upfront. Just beautiful. A-.

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  • 1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

    Dougherty has never had this bottling before and my first attempt to rectify that was foiled by tca a couple of months ago. This bottle was as it should be. I just love this wine and consider it one of the best demi-secs the estate has made. Quite ripe with more of everything than the '46, though, amazingly, the colors were identical. Certainly sweeter than the older wine, with much more of an apricot character. Youthful, and still fairly unevolved, though just starting to take on earl grey notes. Joe finds it fairly atypical for a demi given its sweetness and what he describes as a "furry" character. There's a huge frame to this wine that should see it last longer than most of us here. Sharon prefers the drier '46 to this given the additional complexity and drier character, but she can no longer say with a straight face that she doesn't like Chenin Blanc. Solid A.

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  • 1970 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Reserva Flawed

    Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

    I noticed this bottle leaking in my wine cellar the other day and, upon closer inspection, I discovered the cork had actually fallen into the bottle. Decided to give it a try, but no luck. Shot. NR.

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  • 1971 Château Palmer

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    One of the best wines I've ever had is the '61 Palmer, but too often I find this estate underperforms. It takes a stellar vintage for them to really shine and in my mind, that's not the mark of greatness. There's not a lot to like in this wine, unless you're a fan of green vegetables, death and structure. It's extremely lean and devoid of fruit, just offering up sage, earth and green pepper flavors and aromas. Tannins have softened, but the acidity has a mean streak. Sell 'em if you got 'em. C+.

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  • 1998 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Riserva Toscana IGT

    Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

    Love the nose. Very pretty with black cherry, bark/underbrush and light tobacco aromas. It unfortunately shows the leanness of the vintage on the palate. Similar flavors as aromas, the wine really could use more stuffing to help round out the structure as it's a bit chunky and hard. B.

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  • 1997 Domaine du Closel-Château des Vaults Savennières Cuvée Isa Moelleux

    France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières

    Nice to catch up with this again as it's been a few years. Really pillowy and charming on opening. Lots of botrytis, honey, quince and fragrant yellow flowers, with just a hint of an oxidative note. Like many Loire '97's these days, it's shed the layer of baby fat that kept the structure hidden from view on release. That said, we seem to be catching it at an awkward phase as it's a bit like Swiss cheese with noticeable holes here and there and with air the wine took on a very strong bitter almond note that was actually a little too bitter for me. I'd keep this in the cellar some more as it seems a little cranky. Solid B+ with potential.

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