Chidaine, a Cuvee Buster, '86 Vega Sicilia and '76 Tondonia Chez Brad.

So, fairly last minute I decided I was in the mood to cook something on Friday night. Turns out Joe Dougherty, Sasha Katsman and Greg dal Piaz were around, so over to Chez Brad they came.

• 2001 Thomas-Labaille Sancerre Chavignol Cuvee Buster Les Monts Damnés

  France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

  For those that don't know, whenever one of Joe Dressner's growers has a barrel Joe finds particularly noteworthy, he'll designate bottles from that one barrel with the highly sought after Cuvée Buster label, which bears the image of his dog. At seven years of age, I think this Sauvignon Blanc is getting a little long in the tooth. Dougherty finds more to enjoy intellectually than I do and we also discuss the possibility that this may be the first Buster wine from the new barrel the estate got around that time as there was a perceptible oak component that one doesn't notice in subsequent vintages. B.

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• NV François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Méthode Traditionelle Brut

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire

  Sparkling Montluis from Montluis's master. Overall quite pleasant with nice minerality and Chenin flavors, but with slightly more aggressive mousse than I prefer. Still, an excellent value in sparkling wine. B+.

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• 2005 Havens Wine Cellars Albariño

  USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros

  Loved this wine on release as it's so different and completely unexpected from California, let alone Napa Valley. On release this wine had pretty shrill acid levels, but lovely fruit to go along with it. The wine goes through no malolactic fermentation, nor does it see any oak. Time has mellowed some of the acidity, but also has taken away some of the fruit and as Greg mentioned, left it a bit devoid of character in the middle. Drink these young, but it made some excellent steamed mussels last night. B/B-.

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• 1976 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Just gorgeous aromatically. To start there's sweet red cherry aromas with baked clay, a touch of cocoanut and sweet spices before moving more into a leather and earthy character. On the palate it's like slipping into a worn leather easy chair that knows you well. It's soft and warm with an easy going character. Surprisingly supple upfront, though with air the wine picked up an orange citrus acidic character on the finish. Much more of a leather and earth persona than the nose indicated with just hints of cherry fruit. Much more intellectual than the Vega that followed, though not a better wine. Solid A-.

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• 1986 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  Clearly a two faced wine. There are times this wine shows a straight forward, intense fruit forward aspect and there are times it shows much more of a wild animal character with less fruit and more gaminess with a more persnickety structure. Tonight we had the less intellectual, but more hedonistically appealing personality. There's a rush of sweet dark cherry and strawberry fruit with a touch of beef blood, baker's spices with a touch of vanilla. Still has some tannins to shed, but I was a little surprised with how easy drinking this was. Solid A-.

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