Old Nebbiolo at Tolani

Thanks to Eric Guido for putting together this great dinner of aged Nebbiolo at Tolani. Most of the bottles arrived having been decanted several hours earlier, with the exceptions of the two whites and the Ratti, which were opened at the table. The food was very good, a several course tasting menu featuring cauliflower creme with crab and truffle, pappardelle with pulled pork, and caramelized scallops with corn and sliced jalapeño, along with a delicious South African muffin for dessert. (I've probably missed a dish or two in there). The wines as well were very good, no clunkers.

The tasting was arranged in five flights of two wines each, which made it easier for everyone to manage with the two glasses we had before us.

The Contrà Soarda came before the meal. The Riesling was presented with the cauliflower creme.

• 2007 Vignaioli Contrà Soarda Vespaiolo Breganze Vigna Silan 89 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Breganze

  Light lemon color. Pretty nose of green apple and stone with some tart licorice and dry orange notes. Medium bodied on the palate and quite dry with good acidity.

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• 1985 Klein aux Vieux Remparts Riesling Schlossreben 89 Points

  France, Alsace

  Light gold color. Once again, this wine has a great nose, this time with a lot of whipped cream along with dry leaves and hints of caraway and diesel. Bone dry on the palate and a touch short, medium bodied.

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• 1974 Francesco Rinaldi e Figli Barolo 88 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Medium garnet color, cloudy. Savory nose, lots of beef broth and soy, a touch sherried. Medium bodied and racy on the palate with residual, grippy tannins. I think this may have been somewhat over the hill.

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• 1971 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Cavalieri del Tartufo Ovello 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Medium garnet color, cloudy. Nose of sweet tobacco and spice with some orange peel. Full on the palate, high acidity, a bit clipped on the finish. Probably seen better days but very pleasant.

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• 1974 Cantina Mascarello Barolo 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Medium ruby color. Very pretty on the nose with elements of wild strawberry, tobacco and tar. With time more of a rhubarb/rose element came out as well. Racy on the palate with flavors of pine and lavender, medium bodied. 93+ pts.

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• 1974 Vietti Barolo Rocche 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Medium ruby color. Bigger and tarrier than the Mascarello, this had menthol on the nose, lots of dry, pungent herbs and mountain fruit. Grippy on the palate, but a bit thinned out for my taste. I'm wondering how this would have shown ten years ago.

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• 1978 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbaresco Sorì Paitin 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Deep ruby color, cloudy. Relatively youthful nose of spicebox, black cherries and sweet herbs. Lean on the palate with a hint of red fruit.

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• 1978 Oddero Barolo 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  This was one of my WOTN. Deep ruby color, cloudy. Complex nose of walnuts, sweet soy and rose petal, with some café au lait coming out later on. Full bodied on the palate but with great freshness.

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• 1985 Renato Ratti Barbaresco 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Deep ruby color. Complex, changing nose. Opened quite vegetal, with elements of bell pepper and onion, but within fifteen minutes or so changed to red fruit, rose petal and savory spice. Medium bodied and flavorful on the palate.

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• 1969 Antonio Vallana e Figlio Spanna Montalbano 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Colline Novaresi

  One of my WOTN. Deep ruby/garnet color. Opened very funky, earthy, musty, almost seeming corked; damp turned earth with tobacco notes. But then changed over to more lively aromas of flowers and green leaves like mint. Long and silky on the palate with nice acidity. It's not what I'd call racy, but instead harmonious.

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