Old Nebbiolo at Tolani

There is one certainty which I came to understand very early in my wine drinking life: I love aged Nebbiolo. I could even say that I love aged wine in general, but Barolo and Barbaresco hold a very special place in my heart, a place that can’t be filled by any other substance on earth. Not everyone enjoys fine aged wine; it’s got to be in you—or maybe you’ve yet to have that one bottle that turns you into a believer. However, I’m convinced that once it happens, there is no going back.

To read about the entire event, go to: http://theviptable.blogspot.com/2011/05/older-nebbiolo-barolo-barbaresco-spanna.html

• 2007 Vignaioli Contrà Soarda Vespaiolo Breganze Vigna Silan 90 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Breganze

  The nose was lively and fresh, showing white flowers, with honey, apple and bacon fat. On the palate, it had a caressing and pleasant weight with good juicy acidity and flavors of white stone fruits and herbs. The finish was fresh and left me wanting another sip. It was a highly enjoyable white that showed great freshness with good concentration and a unique profile on the nose.

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• 1985 Klein aux Vieux Remparts Riesling Schlossreben 88 Points

  France, Alsace

  The nose showed stone, wheat, whiffs of saffron and honey. On the palate, it was remarkably dry with flavors of lemon, flower petals, minerals and herbs. The finish was staying, yet bitter, as the citrus and minerals notes faded.

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• 1974 Francesco Rinaldi e Figli Barolo 87 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  The 1974 Francesco Rinaldi showed its age with notes of beef broth, dried leaves, salinity and earth. On the palate, this wine was lean at first, as the beefy broth continued and was joined by faded red fruits and old barrel’ but with time in the glass, it began to turn sweeter and rounder with notes of brown sugar. The finish was remarkably long with hints of pipe tobacco and earth. This was a wine for a lover of old traditional Barolo, and although it may be a little over the hill, maybe even a little dirty, I still found much enjoyment in the glass.

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• 1971 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Cavalieri del Tartufo Ovello 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  On the nose, gravel and soil notes lead to dried strawberry, tobacco and undergrowth. On the palate, an initial burst of acidity attacked the senses, giving this 40 year old Barbaresco lift and vibrancy as fading dark fruits and minerals caressed the senses. The finish showed eucalyptus and spice. I don’t see this wine getting any better, but it’s still highly enjoyable.

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• 1974 Cantina Mascarello Barolo 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  The 1974 Bartolo Mascarello was classic in every way that an aged Barolo should be. The nose showed dried roses, tar, tobacco and earth with a lively floral perfume. On the palate, it was vibrant with dried cherry, more tobacco and notes of copper. With time in the glass, the wine continued to open and gain in volume and sweetness. The long finish showed faded dry strawberry and a bit of tree bark.

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• 1974 Vietti Barolo Rocche 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  What a pleasure it was to drink the 1974 Vietti Rocche. The nose showed floral undergrowth, fresh-turned soil with strawberry and, as time passed, a sweet, almost caramel note added outstanding complexities to the already beautiful bouquet. On the palate, it was juicy yet balanced and still showed youthful notes of fresh red berries, cinnamon and sweet floral notes. The finish swung toward the savory side as broth and brown sugar lingered for over 30 seconds.

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• 1978 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbaresco Sorì Paitin 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  The earthy nose showed faded cherry fruit with eucalyptus, vine-ripening tomato and hints of sweet peas. On the palate, I found slightly bitter red fruits with plum skins and tobacco. The finish was fresh and still lively.

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• 1978 Oddero Barolo 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  The 1978 Oddero Barolo was simply gorgeous and just entering its full maturity. After four hours opened in bottle, it began to show earthy mushroom, dried cherry, dusty minerals and roses on the nose. On the palate, it was vibrant and dark with lush red fruits, spice, tobacco and an acidic lift that added remarkable freshness that stayed into the long finish with plum and a bit of citrus rind.

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• 1985 Renato Ratti Barbaresco 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  The nose showed floral undergrowth with strawberry and spice. On the palate, it showed dried red berries with a dusting of minerals and earth, along with a fine structure that should keep it fresh for many years to come. The finish was drying with tannins that are still holding on to this wine’s red berry fruit.

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• 1969 Antonio Vallana e Figlio Spanna Montalbano 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Colline Novaresi

  The 1969 Vallana Spanna would be nearly impossible to guess as a wine with 40+ years on it. The nose was dark with moist earth and herbs, yet there was a vibrancy to the plumy fruit and spice that followed. On the palate, it was remarkably fresh as it caressed the senses with strawberry, mulling spice and herbs. The finish carried this wine home as red berries and earth lingered on the palate.

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