Turckheim, Alsace, France
Tasted Friday, May 12, 2006 by JeffGMorris with 2,799 views
This day was highly anticipated as the highlight of our trip to Alsace, along with our decadent cheese tasting at Bernard Antony that was to be the following day. Spending time with Olivier Humbrecht is always a treat and despite his clearly busy schedule ( noted by his staff in the office who would have rathered Olivier was working and helping them with several issues that arose during the day ), Olivier had set aside the entire day to spend with the 4 of us. We were treated to his nearly undivided attention for 7 wonderful hours.
If there's a more intelligent, well spoken, articulate, knowledgeable and friendly winemaker, I've yet to meet him or her. We had the pleasure of discussing winemaking, wine distribution, biodynamics, green harvesting and other techniques Olivier does or does not employ in the vineyards, single malt scotch ( very much a passion for Olivier ), family, history and life in general. And of course we tasted and drank a lot of great wine! Thanks Olivier for yet another day I'll not soon forget!
The 2004 vintage
Yields were higher than normal in 2004. Olivier attributes this to the drought conditions in 2003 and the vines natural tendency to produce a larger crop the following year as a means of survival. Acidity levels were very strong and there was good ripeness. The grapes were set for producing legendary VTs and SGNs before mid October weather predictions caused the waiting game to end and picking to procede with no SGN quality grapes and only a few (3) VTs. 2004 represents the first time since 1992 that the warm and botrytis-forming Clos Jebsal failed to produce a SGN. Many of the wines fermented to near dryness and the hallmark seems to be wines of good richness and high but balanced acidity. A very good to excellent vintage, but not on par across the board with the best ( such as 2002, a vintage both Olivier and I consider to be the best across the board in some time. This may soon change - see below ). Of course, this is a relative statement and must be taken in context. When one tastes through 25-30 wines at this quality level it is choosing between very good, excellent, great and profound. There are no clunkers here and all would make worthy additions to anyone's cellar. Rieslings seem to be
uniformly wonderful and I was pleasantly surprised that the dry Gewurztraminers were showing nice richness and none of the bitterness that can sometimes plague dry versions of this varietal.
All in all I think I found Clos Windsbuhl to be the most consistent vineyard across the varietals including one big surprise for me ( Zind ).
An early look at 2005
Inevitably the discussion turned to the vintage currently in cask, 2005. Like in most regions across France, Olivier feels his 2005s hold the
potential to become a profound set of wines. Time will tell but his opinion is that these wines will be fabulous at all levels - dry, VT and
what looks to be an amazing collection of 5 SGNs, one at the Trie Speciale level ( and it's not Clos Jebsal! ). Sounds like another fantastic
tasting when we visit next year followed by an expensive buying campaign!
The state of wine reviews in Alsace
The Wine Advocate last printed reviews of the 2001 vintage and International Wine Cellar last published reviews of wines from 2002. I was glad to hear that Pierre Rovani, always a friend to the wines of Alsace, has tasted through the ZH lineups from 2002, 2003 and 2004, but when, if ever, we'll see said reviews is a mystery. Those of us who love the wines of this beautiful region need to make our voices heard to the powers that be that we want to see this great region represented in the pages of the most prestigious US-based wine publications.
Now on to the wines
After about 3 1/2 hours tasting in the cellar overlooking the barrel room, we were given an extra special treat when Olivier led us down to the barrel room to taste one of the 2005 SGNs out of cask!
From here we rushed off to lunch, hoping to make it to the restaurant before the chef left at 2:00. We arrived around 1:50 and once the chef and staff saw who was dining here today ( Olivier, not us! ) we were treated to a wonderful 2 hour meal. A meal with Olivier is always a special treat as he likes to pull out older or unusual bottles. Today was no different!
WOW!!!!! Thanks Olivier for another great day.
2004 Zind-Humbrecht Zind 90 Points
France, Alsace
This wine blew me away. Not usually a big fan of this bottling I was prepared to move through this quickly to get to the main event, but I was quite surprised by what I found in my glass. This green tinged glass of wine presented terrific minerality and smoke along with peach and melon notes in a creamy and acidic medium bodied package. The acidity was obvious but ripe and should integrate beautifully in the next year or two. Medium to long on the finish, this wine was a revelation. So what's different this year? All Windsbuhl fruit! Chardonnay and Pinot Auxerrois. The vineyard placed such a clear imprint on this wine that I couldn't help but be seduced. 50+12+12+8+8 = 90+
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2004 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot d'Alsace 86 Points
France, Alsace
So where did the rest of the grapes usually put in the Zind bottling go? Here. Pale gold in the glass, this combination of Herrenweg and Rotenberg fruit was more what I expected from the Zind. Much rounder, softer and simpler, all I could do when this was presented was still marvel at the Zind. 50+11+11+7+7 = 86
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