2008 J.L. Chave and Allemand Northern Rhones
Vin Vino Wine, Palo Alto, California
Tasted Friday, June 10, 2011 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 1,440 views
Introduction
I wasn’t expecting much from 2008 Northern Rhones after reading about the heavy rains that fell there, especially in early September, and the predominantly cool and overcast weather that hung over most of the growing season. The Northern Rhone experienced its highest rainfall in 30 years in 2008. I’ve tasted enough 2008 Châteauneuf-du-Papes to know that the heavy rains led to a weaker than usual vintage there, and the advance word on Northern Rhones was that many of them were muted and showing the dilution that occurs in waterlogged years. So it was exciting to taste these 2008s from two of the best producers in the Northern Rhone, Jean-Louis Chave and Thierry Allemand, who seem to have pulled some delectable rabbits out of rain soaked hats in 2008.
Thierry Allemand is known for taking risks, and holding out for ripe fruit despite the possibility of bad weather as the season grows later. This tactic served him well in 2008, as drying winds–the mistral–showed up in mid-September and blew through until mid-October, allowing the grapes to dry out and, finally, to ripen. Jean-Louis Chave, like his father Gérard before him, likewise harvests later than most in the Northern Rhone, and his wines in this challenging vintage greatly benefited from it. It also helped that, according to Chave, the domaine declassified over a third of its grapes in 2008.
In this tasting we had two of J.L. Chave’s negociant wines (including the ’09 Silene), a Chave St. Joseph, two of Thierry Allemand’s exquisite Cornases, and both of Chave’s marvelous, blended white and red Hermitages. The last four wines, especially, were a great pleasure, although I was surprised that I preferred Allemand’s younger vine Chaillot this year, as I normally have always given the nod to his Reynard. Kudos to Chave and Allemand for making truly delicious wines despite daunting weather conditions in 2008.
For more details about the vineyards, winemaking and my tasting notes, see below.
Flight 1 - J.L. Chave St. Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage (3 Notes)
This was a good starting trio. The Céleste is 100% Marsanne from old vines, and it has the oily texture and richness that remind one of its massive sibling, the Chave Hermitage Blanc. The Silene was our only wine that wasn’t from the ’08 vintage, but it was surprisingly near ready for an ’09 Crozes-Hermitage. The St. Joseph from Chave’s own vines had an intense nose and a wonderful savory, peppery quality. At $50 to $60, I don’t think it’s a terribly good value, but it’s certainly a tasty St. Joseph.
Flight 2 - Allemand Cornas (2 Notes)
Thierry Allemand breaks my heart with his beautifully made, complex and pure Cornas. I love them year after year. As I mentioned above, the surprise for me was how great the Chaillot was in 2008. The vines from which Chaillot is made are under 40 years old. The produce of the older vines goes into the Reynard. The Reynard usually has the greater structure, as this ’08 does. I think it will age even longer than the Chaillot. but the intensity and complexity of the ’08 Chaillot makes it a show stopper now. Absolutely gorgeous wines, both of them.
Flight 3 - Chave Hermitage (2 Notes)
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave dates back to 1481, and their wines blended from their holdings in Hermitage are always among the greatest wines of the Northern Rhone. The Hermitage Blanc, in particular, is often thrilling, with its rich and oily texture, and wonderful complexity. It’s typically 80-85% Marsanne, with 15 to 20% Roussanne. It is a wine that typically shows beautifully after 15 or more years of bottle age, but this ’08 was a reminder of how gorgeous they can be on first release. Definitely my WOTT. The Hermitage rouge is no slouch either, with its very aromatic and sexy nose, but it definitely needs several years to show all that’s there, beyond the polished fruit and fine tannins showing now.
2008 J.L. Chave Sélection St. Joseph Céleste 91 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Light medium lemon yellow color; vanilla, lemon gelee, lemon cream, oak nose; tasty, light oily textured, lemon gelee, tart lemon, oak palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish
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2009 J.L. Chave Sélection Crozes-Hermitage Silène 90 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
Dark purple red violet color; nice pepper, graphite, tart black fruit nose; tart pepper, raspberry, graphite, tar, tart black fruit palate with medium acidity; nearly ready and should be fine in a year and go 5-7 years; medium-plus finish 90+ points
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2008 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave St. Joseph 91 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Dark purple red violet color; intense green peppercorn, graphite, savory, roasted lamb nose; tasty, tart green pepper, mineral, tart plum, savory palate with medium acidity; needs 2 years and will go 8-plus; medium-plus finish 91+ points
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