Salone di Grandi Vini Bianchi

Mirabelle Restaurant Austin, Texas
Tasted Sunday, July 10, 2011 by austinwinesalon with 962 views

Introduction

Deep in the heart of our worst Austin summer ever, we had a need to get back to deep roots, so the July salon was a celebration of the great Italian white wine varietals, provided by a very generous Susan Thomas. Last July we tasted 45 of Susan's lesser white Italian varietals in a spectacular "Act 1" salon, and this was Act 2 of Susan's Bianchi play, where she has collected about 150 of the greatest Italian white wines to sample. Act 3 will follow for a future salon.

This salon had six groups of 5-6 tasters each. Tasters are wine and food professionals and afficionadoes, many of which have earned various sommelier certifications. We tasted our wines in geographic order, from the norther of Italy to its south and then Sicilia and Sardinia. Wines were generally opened at the tables and poured to all tasters at the same time --they were not decanted and had been kept on top of ice buckets. Each wine was tasted by three separate groups. Prepared food was available during and between flights.

A thank you to Lauren Holbrook of Paggi House for helping compile these tasting notes.

Flight 1 - First Flight (6 Notes)

  • 2007 Saracco Moscato d'Asti

    Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti

    Frizzante, pale yellow straw color, medium bodied wine with a fruit-coating, luscious mouth-feel, aromas and flavors of peach, mandarin orange, ripe pear, sweet flowers like honeysuckle, honey, wild mountain flowers, a touch of St. Germain, a sweet wine but at the same time quite refreshing with nice acidity in the background, simple yet highly enjoyable.

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  • 2009 La Scolca Gavi Etichetta Bianca

    Italy, Piedmont, Gavi

    From the white label bottle, the grape here is Cortese. Had citrus notes such as orange and lime zest, white pepper, peanut shells, button mushroom, touch of truffle, gravelly-stony minerality. This is a dry mineral laden wine with a slightly bitter finish (not unpleasant however), a touch of grape spice with m+ acidity, and a medium body.

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  • 2008 Punta Crena Vermentino Riviera Ligure di Ponente Vigneto Isasco

    Italy, Liguria, Riviera Ligure di Ponente

    This is a medium bodied wine with medium plus acidity and a very pronounced minerality, lots of citrus fruits: lemon, lime, grapefruit, also notes of tart barely ripe pineapple, a well-balanced crisp and refreshing wine with loads of terroir! All agreed the wine would be wonderful with the fried seafood of the region Liguria! The overall favorite of the flight, among three groups of tasters.

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  • 2006 Azienda Agricola Prà Soave Classico Monte Grande

    Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico

    This is considered to be Pra’s best Soave made from the Garganega grape, lots of citrus notes and high acidity, also some notes of bruised/slightly macerated fruits such as lemon, yellow apple, kiwi, a touch of dried apricot, this is a wine with medium plus body and a nice round mouth-feel, most seemed to comment on the high acidity and this wine could be slightly out of balance because of such searing acidity.

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  • 2007 Zenato Lugana San Benedetto

    Italy, Lombardia / Veneto, Lugana

    Grape is Trebbiano, lots of tree fruit: yellow apple, lemon and lime, white and yellow flowers, touch of raw cashew, this is a clean and refreshing wine with a touch of sea salt minerality, this wine has pretty high acidity but maintains a round well balanced structure. The second favorite of the flight, among three groups of tasters.

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  • 2007 Livio Felluga Friuli Colli Orientali Pinot Grigio

    Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Colli Orientali

    This was noted to be quite a complex and well balanced wine, sweet ripe citrus fruit notes, apple and pear, a touch of dried peach and apricot and a notable nuttiness: sweet raw peanuts, peanut shells, great minerality – stones and graphite

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Flight 2 - Second Flight (6 Notes)

  • 2007 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis

    Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Roero

    A light, straw color with fine aromas of fruit, sea salt, forest floor, and rose, which blew off and developed into some complexity. This was the favorite of the flight, as it had clean acidity and rich flavor notes of pear/apple, spice, almond, grass, lemon, and some minerals. It had excellent balance and a nice finish, with some lingering honey and peach flavor, and reminded several tasters of a dry Alsatian pinot gris.

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  • 2008 Villa Sparina Gavi Monterotondo

    Italy, Piedmont, Gavi

    Light yellow with much clarity, this was a bold wine which some liked a lot and some didn’t, owing to some oxidized notes. It had a strong and strange nose of cotton candy, caramel, butterscotch, circus peanuts, almond, and lemon curd which differed a bit with a palate of sour lemon, minerals/slate, honey, and some caramel candy. It was “creamy,” for some, and had some oxidized character. A very different Gavi which intrigued some of the tasters, not all.

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  • 2005 Bisson Vermentino Golfo del Tigullio - Portofino Vigna Intrigoso

    Italy, Liguria, Golfo del Tigullio - Portofino

    Pale yellow with good clarity, it had a tropical fruit nose, with additional aromas of grapefruit, peach, honeysuckle, heather, minerals, and some varnish or wood. A pleasant wine, especially with food, it gained pear and peach flavors on the palate, along with grapefruit, mandarin orange, nectarine, guava, and savory notes. Well-balanced and moderate acid, with a light finish.

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  • 2005 Masi Serego Alighieri Possessioni Bianco

    Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT

    Straw-colored, the Masi blend had a subtle but distinct bouquet of pear and green apple which developed into a modern, fruit-forward wine. Tasters noted flavors of red apple, melon, pear, citrus, and stone fruits, with light tannins and moderate acidity. Very enjoyable for all and the second favorite of the flight of six Italian whites.

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  • 2007 Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio Benefizium Porer

    Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol

    Light straw color, it had an interesting nose of buttermilk and tropical fruits, green apple and key lime, and almon, what one taster noted was “a classic expression of Italian pinot grigio.” It had a lot of acidity, was described as a “medley of tropical and citrus fruit”; others noted some strong butter and mineral notes as well as a nutty and herbal character. This wine gained a lot of balance with food, because of its acidity, and was quite good with fish.

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  • 2005 Jermann Capo Martino In Ruttaris Venezia Giulia IGT

    Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT

    Most tasters thought this wine was slightly corked, but a fascinating taste. Rich and weighty, with a deep yellow/gold color, it had a strange nose—some found ammonia and barnyard (the sensitive types), and others found perfume and spice, butterscotch and caramel (other sensitive types). There has been some bottle variation with this wine, but many tasters were quite fascinated with it, enjoying flavors of honeysuckle, cream, spice, sweet and sour, cinnamon, green tea, and ginger—quite distinct, and you liked it or didn’t. Improved some with food.

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Flight 3 - Third Flight (6 Notes)

  • 2007 Lis Neris Friulano Fiore di Campo Venezia Giulia IGT

    Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT

    This wine displays notes of pears, peaches and kumquats, orange blossoms and a smoky toasted peanut shell note, this is a very clean wine with pronounced minerality of medium body with a med + acidity. Very enjoyable and the second favorite wine of the six bottle flight among three tasting groups.

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  • 2003 Bressan Pinot Grigio

    Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT

    This wine has a deep but bright yellow color, this is a Pinot Grigio in its own category, notes of carmelized apple, ripe peaches, dried apricot, and a touch of finger lime, also notes of orange oil, Indian spices, sweet peanuts; this is a fuller white with a mouth-texture with med + acid and med + alcohol.

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  • 2006 Venica & Venica Collio Friulano Ronco delle Cime

    Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio

    Notes of pear and apricot and a notable grape spice, white pepper, a cider characteristic, touch of Indian spice, and great minerality, also some orange blossom and yellow flowers on the nose, very balanced wine with a great palate .

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  • 2007 Miani Ribolla Gialla

    Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Colli Orientali

    This wine is dry but with a sweet nose, very floral with a touch of marzipan, green apple and pear, mineral driven with nice round complexity. Everyone seemed to enjoy this wine with subtle fruit, great floral tones, and a pronounced mineral driven finish. The strong favorite wine of this six bottle flight among three tasting groups.

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  • 2006 Tenuta Guado al Tasso (Antinori) Vermentino Bolgheri

    Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

    Notes of pear, honeydew melon and citrus fruits, a clean and crisp mineral driven wine, most everyone found it to be quite enjoyable but not very complex. Might have been better when younger.

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  • 2007 Brugnoli Orvieto Classico Le Lune e Le Prune

    Italy, Umbria/Lazio, Orvieto, Orvieto Classico

    This is a simple wine, a porch sipper, but one that was enjoyed by just about everyone – notes of sweet citrus fruit and apricots – a light uncomplicated white. 40% Grechetto, 30% Trebbiano, and 30% Malvasia.

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Flight 4 - Fourth Flight (6 Notes)

  • 2003 Radikon Jakot

    Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT

    Cloudy orange in color, like an organic apple cider or apricot juice, it carried the cider look into the nose, with some petrol, varnish, meat, mineral, and caramel on the bouquet. This is a complicated wine to taste, with flavors evolving and mixing—sometimes you like the wine, sometimes you don’t. With much acidity and a creaminess, there were brandy notes amidst citrus, grapefruit, orange peel, and tangerine, some dried apricot and dried peach, black pepper and spice/herbs. It resembled a red wine, and was somewhat volatile. The odd favorite of some, the dumped glass of others.

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  • 2007 Consorzio Vini Tipici di San Marino Moscato

    San Marino, Brugneto

    A lovely and clean apertif, with some frizzante. Golden in color (dark for a Moscato, maybe from its age), it had a peach, honey, stone fruit, grapefruit, and mineral nose. Lots of sweetness and good acidity with some yummy flavors, including honeysuckle, pink grapefruit, fruit cocktail, vanilla, and peach. One taster described it aptly as peach cobbler with vanilla ice cream in a light drink….. Went well with our soup. A rare wine over here, especially in Austin!

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  • 2006 Schiopetto Blanc des Rosis Venezia Giulia IGT

    Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT

    A blend of Tocai Friulano and Pinot Grigio. A light straw color, with some lime shading, this blend five varietals had good residual sugar and acidity, a bit like a Riesling. It had a nose of grass, lemon-lime, and chalky mineral, and was quite lively and “generous,” with flavors of sour apple, tropical fruit, citrus, olive oil, grilled pear, and herbs. “Big” resounded amongst tasters.

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  • 2006 Vie di Romans Flors di Uis

    Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Isonzo

    A blend of Malvasia, Tocai Friulano, and Riesling. Light straw color, the wine was light, feminine, dry, and floral, with mineral, flowers, and citrus on the nose, a good balance, and noticeable minerality, tropical fruit, soft grapefruit, sour apple, and grass/hay on the palate. Well-liked by all, it had a nice mid-palate and finish. Very enjoyable and the second favorite wine of the six bottle flight among three tasting groups.

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  • 2007 Paolo Bea Santa Chiara

    Italy, Umbria

    Was this a light Calvados? It had a copper color and was very dry, with noticeable oak tannins and quite exotic. It had a nose of orange marmalade, ginger, all-spice, apple, peach, and wood, This wine is composed equally of five varietals (Grechetto, Malvasia Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Garganega), so its flavors go all over the place for tasters. One taster called it bananas foster, another cantaloupe juice, and several Calvados. Flavors included stone fruits, bubble gum, sweet candy, bitter orange, pecan shell, minerals, and apple. Food helped this wine, especially with its tannins and lively acidity.

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  • 2006 Monastero Suore Cistercensi Lazio Coenobium

    Italy, Latium, Lazio

    Light straw color with a nice flora, green apple, and honey bouquet, “like sweet hay in the fall.” The wine was clean and refreshing, tart and a bit sweet, an interesting expression of four grapes expression of the grapes (chiefly Verdicchio), with flavors of light lemon, papaya, pear, apple, some petrol, vanilla, and honey. Went well with food and had a fruity finish. The strong favorite wine of the six bottle flight among three tasting groups.

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Flight 5 - Fifth Flight (7 Notes)

Flight 6 - Sixth Flight (7 Notes)

  • 2002 Azienda Agricola Valentini Trebbiano d'Abruzzo

    Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo

    Light straw in color, we drank this wine at room temperature, probably too warm, at the insistence of our resident Italian oenophile/restauranteur. This is quite a lovely and powerful wine, a favorite of the salon. It had a strong floral and noticeable nose, a bit musty and smoky from its warm temperature so that offal, mushroom, and brisquet showed through. Well-balanced with good acidity, it had flavors of earth, smoke, creamy, vanilla, lime zest, pear, and slate. Multi grande! A favorite wine, along with the Masciarrelli and Felsina, of the whole salon.

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  • 2004 Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino Pietracalda

    Italy, Campania, Fiano di Avellino DOCG

    Most tasters thought this was a corked wine, but a few hung in there and declared it okay, noting its gold color, a musty (and musky?) nose, even detecting some fruit, and a simple and clean tannin character. But no flattering flavor……

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  • 2004 Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo Cutizzi

    Italy, Campania, Greco di Tufo DOCG

    Light gold and bright in color, with a lively nose and palate, tasters differed on this wine. Some disliked its petrol nose and vinyl/leather taste, others thought this gave way to a nose of orange peel and fresh pine, with flavors of almond, honey, apple, grilled peach, pear, green apple, and lime.

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  • 2007 Vinosia Falanghina Beneventano IGT

    Italy, Campania, Beneventano IGT

    Clear, this drank a bit like a moscato with a clear light straw color and lively aromas of orange blossoms, perfume, spice box, mango, and honey. It had a light acidity with flavors of ripe pear, peach, mandarin orange, honey, and tropical fruits. Went great with our ceviche.

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  • 2006 Capichera Isola dei Nuraghi IGT

    Italy, Sardinia, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT

    Vermentino, this was straw-coloured, quite exotic, with a petrol, mineral, caramel nose. It resembled a Riesling. Had an overtone of sweetness and was viscous, with flavor notes of Japanese pear, forest floor, green apple, and nuts. Most tasters enjoyed this wine much, and it went well with our ceviche.

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  • 2008 Planeta Fiano Sicilia Cometa

    Italy, Sicily, Sicilia

    Straw-colored with some oxidized and sour flavor notes, it had a bouquet of butter, apples, and olives, truly, with lots of acidity and flavors of vanilla brulee, caramel, turbo sugar, over-ripe apple, almonds, and soft lemon. Exotic. Fun. A favorite of one of our tasting groups.

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  • 1999 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Vin Santo del Chianti Classico

    Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico

    Quite delicious, dark amber with butterscotch, orange peel, bourbon, almond, coconut, stewed fruit on the nose, and full flavors of nuts, caramel, marzipan, raisin, toasted coconut, maple, orange peel, and dates. “A wow wine!” and a favorite of a couple of our tasting groups.

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