1992 Etienne Sauzet Puligny Premier Crus

San Francisco
Tasted Monday, December 5, 2011 by wickedwax with 590 views

Introduction

A good friend decided to open a horizontal of five of Sauzet's 1992 Puligny Premier Crus. All bottles were purchased at exactly the same time and have been stored together in the exact same condition for the 18 or so years they have been cellared. Of course, there could always be bottle variation, but this was about as close as you could get to having limited variables. We weren't quite sure which order to taste them, so I suggested that we taste them by elevation, assuming that the higer elevation vineyards would be racier with less body and that as you go to lower elevations, the wines should, in theory, be richer and fuller.

Flight 1 - Some Zind-Humbrechts and Champagne to Start (4 Notes)

  • NV Champagne Fleury Champagne Carte Rouge Brut

    France, Champagne

    Not knowing the background of the wine, we noticed just the slightest tinge of copper in the color which led us to believe that it was a BdN. Aromas of cherry, yellow stone fruit, lemon, spice, toast and minerals confirmed it. Seemed fairly low in dosage, but had good richness and roundness to it. Smooth texture with good length.

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  • 2001 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Brand

    France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

    Tasted after being opened 3 days. Wonderful aromas of honey, peaches, cream, white flowers and a streak of minerality. Not quite as sweet as one would guess from the nose (but it also did list an Indice 1 which may have led you to guess that as well). Medium-full bodied with good richness and a slight creaminess, but with good acidity to keep it well-balanced. Very good length.

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  • 2001 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain

    France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

    Tasted alongside the 2001 Brand, both of which were on their third day. The Clos St. Urbain was not giving too much up save for some strange onion type aroma with more intense minerality. There was some fruit there, but it was obfuscated by the onion type aroma. Not sure if the wine was in a strange place. The palate wasn't as racy as the Brand yet still quite rich with good length.

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  • 1998 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain Vendange Tardive

    France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

    Tasted on third day of being open. I've had this once before and both bottles have shown this hue of what I call motor oil (not used motor oil of course). Rich and ripe apricot, honey, hazelnut and caramel notes on the nose. I told the owner of the bottle that had I tasted this blind, I would have never had guessed this to be Gewurztraminer. Nevertheless, it was quite good with good concentration and depth, yet with very good acidity to cut through all of its richness. Very good length.

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Flight 2 - 1992 Sauzet (5 Notes)

  • 1992 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Aromas of bruleed lemon, coffee, toasted bread and minerals. High-toned on the palate with a classic steely Puligny quality with good focused stucture of acidity and minerality. In a great place now and a similar bottle could probably last at least a few more years.

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  • 1992 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ-Canet

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Aromas of lemon oil, white flowers, grilled bread and minerals. Richer and more intense than the La Garenne and with good acidity to keep it marvelously balanced. Elegant, clean and focused with good minerality that carries through to the long finish. Should be able to hold for a few more years if not longer. My favorite Sauzet of the night.

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  • 1992 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Aromas of lemon, yellow stone fruit, toasted bread and minerals. So far the richest Sauzet we tasted in the line-up, but lacking the acidity of the La Garenne and Champs Canet. Still quite elegant and balanced, but just doesn't have quite the focus. Very good length, but seemingly not going to hold up too much longer.

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  • 1992 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Two tones darker in color than the Folatieres, Garenne, or Champs-Canet. Riper yellow stone fruit on the nose with some citrus, baking spices and minerals. Good concentration and depth, but lacking in acidity and overall seemingly a little tired and just past its best.

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  • 1992 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    About the same shade as the Referts with an equally ripe but perhaps less intense nose of yellow stone fruit, toast and minerals and more overt tones of oxidization. Rich on the palate, but lacking any verve and depth. Definitely past its best. I knew that Sauzet's Perrieres was replanted at some time and noticed that it seemed to be in the 80's, so this was under young vines, perhaps contributing to why the wine did not age as well as the others.

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Flight 3 - Champagne Intermezzo (1 Note)

  • NV Franck Bonville Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Fine and plentiful bead with aromas of wild strawberries and tart cherries, red apple, citrus, brioche and minerals. Lively acidity with good precision with a nice tautness and angular quality. Perhaps not too complex, but very enjoyable.

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Flight 4 - Various Reds (3 Notes)

  • 1975 Cellers de Scala Dei Priorat Cartoixa

    Spain, Catalunya, Priorat

    We were trying to determine the varietals in this blend other than Grenache. The owner of the bottle thought it was Mouvedre and Merlot and Tempranillo were thrown out there. The modern version of this wine says that it is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and a little Syrah. Anyways, this showed aromas of dried red berry fruit, some dried floral notes, baking spices and a little earth. The palate was resolved with a nice balance and we were fairly surprised how well this has held up over time. We were fairly certain that this would fall apart fairly quickly and consumed it fairly quickly.

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  • 1988 Jean-Jacques Confuron Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Aromas of dark berry fruit, black cherry, some spice and earth. Nicely resolved on the palate with good acidity and a velvety smooth texture. Somewhat lean and not really complex, but overall nicely balanced with fairly good length. Mature, but should probably hold up for a few years.

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  • 1982 Vieux Château Certan

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Aromas of dried red fruit, chocolate, cigar box, herbs and earth. Full-bodied with a rather lush and velvety smooth mouthfeel on the palate with nicely integrated tannins and medium acidity with flavors of red berries, tart plum, smoke and earth. Good length with a chocolately earthy finish.

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Flight 5 - Dessert Wines (3 Notes)

  • 1983 Château Raymond-Lafon

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Drank from magnum. Aromas of honey, peaches, apricot and botrytis spice. Med-full bodied with good acidity so that it nearly finishes dry. Reasonable depth and concentration, but without much complexity. Good length.

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  • 1994 Zind-Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Sélection de Grains Nobles

    France, Alsace

    With just one sniff of this, we knew this was going to be amazing. Aromas of apricots, peaches, poached pears, quince, orange marmalade, baking spices, honey and figs. Very full-bodied and viscous on the palate very much in the vein of a German TBA. While containing a lot of RS, this had amazing acidity to keep it from being cloying and it was amazing how well it flowed through the palate despite its viscosity. Tremendous length and one the best dessert wines I've had all year and one of the best I've ever had. The last sip was the best -- still youthful with plenty of more time for more development.

    * I later noticed that this was the Trie Speciale and not just the regular SGN.

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  • NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Demi-Sec

    France, Champagne

    Fine bead with aromas of apple, white peaches, some citrus and minerality. Although you can detect the RS, it is no way overdone and merely serves to bring some focus to the fruit. Good acidity keeps it precise and clean and overall it was quite enjoyable. Note that I am quite fond of my German Rieslings and am not afraid to have a little RS in my wine.

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Closing

Interestingly, the higher elevation vineyards (La Garenne, Les Champs-Canet and Les Folatieres) seemed to hold up the best. Meanwhile, the lower elevation vineyards (Les Referts and Les Perrieres) were more advanced. Perhaps the extra acidity helped to preserve the higher elevation vineyards? Granted, Les Perrieres was under young vines for Sauzet at the time, so perhaps that may have played a factor in that wine. It is unfortunate that we were not able to taste the Combettes as many seem to consider that to be Sauzet's greatest Premier Cru and it is situated in between Champs-Canet and Les Referts. Nevertheless, it was an amazing opportunity to look at terroir and it was a lot of fun to have them with some of the first of the season's Dungeness Crab and spend it with many wonderful people.

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