Restaurant Bottles, Sas van Gent
Tasted Saturday, December 10, 2011 by jkoenen with 1,125 views
21 different labels of Sine Qua Non, brought together by the 11 participants, under the supervision of John T.
Eleven flights were accompanied by a wonderful dish especially prepared by the chef for this tasting.
Wines were tasted non-blind, except were noted.
Served with assorted amuses
Served with Tuna/Gamberoni/Ras el Hanout
This wine gives our SQN-tasting a stunning start! Spicy (cinnamon, cardamom, pepper) notes which remainded me of aged Gruner Veltliner Smaragd. There is also a great banana-cake flavor, cranberries, smoky complexity, very ripe and lush, thickness, and fantastic acidity and acidity. Has a certain dry Auslese-style, 15% alcohol is noticeable but well integrated and not disturbing at all. This chameleon blends impressions of White Burgundy, White Hermitage and Gruner Veltliner into a wonderful and unique experience. Unbelievably complex and compact, quite youthful even! Can live for 5 more years, no problem. 19/20 and my personal white WOTN.
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Very concentrated and intoxicating nose of warm applepie and heavy floral notes (lilies, hyacinth, lilac, honeysuckle) which I did not find very appealing. On the palate this is much more evolved than the Albino, showing overripe peaches, passionfruit and white chocolate. So, less freshness, but rather oily and unctuous and very impressive, loud and clearly present. Could this be in decline? 17,5/20
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Served with Sea Bass & Sea Bass
(From magnum) Younger and fresher in the nose when compared to the Tarantella. Very floral and perfumed. Alas, rather alcoholic and disharmonious. Finish is long and delineated, with good persistency of its tropical fruit flavours. 17,5/20
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Corked.
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Served with Bisque/Scallop/Rouille
Red colour reminiscent of young Pinot Noir. So, indeed, more of a red wine than a rosé. Your typical New World Grenache in the nose: cherry-jam, seasoned by provencal herbs. Such a pity that this wine is not rocking at the moment. It's big and monolithic and alcoholic. And I cannot find any balance. All that red fruit (cherry, raspberry, forest fruit) is very pure and easy to recognise, but it all seems incoherent. And, to my taste, this is too sweet. Sorry to say, but this is one-dimensional and nuthin' special (at the moment). 15,5/20
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Served with Creuses/Marrow/Pepper
Wow. What a beautiful, fresh and feminine yet powerful bouquet of perfectly ripe fruit and springflowers... Viognier aromatics dominate at the moment (fresh bunch of grapes, acacia, apricot and peach), but in a beautiful relatively controlled and restrained fashion. Mysterious hints of Asian spice. Citric nuances start shifting from yellow to orange now. Playful, young and clean but utterly serious and promising. And that nose.... is ingenious.... Sigh... 18,5/20
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Slightly less honorable and noble than the Body & Soul. Peach-yoghurt, banana-candy, marshmellow, limoncello, tiny hint of liquor-infused chocolate, floral notes of orangeblossom and jasmine. Wonderful nose, in the mouth it's searching for balance. It's a tad hot at the moment. Beautiful young wine, though. 18/20
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Served with Foie & Truffle
Obviously evolved in colour, more so than expected. This bottle is unctuous and carressing, alcohol nicely hidden. Extremely sweet fruitbasket of apricot, Turkish delight and candied kumquat. Very, very long. Great wine, although this bottle has developed to fast. Openend a second bottle to compare and, notwithstanding that this one was clearly fresher, the sense of precociousness remained. 18/20
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Served with Pheasant & Sauerkraut
I thought this was super-fruity and fresh on the nose, not very complex. Wild strawberries, blackberries, that kind of stuff. Still youthful, very few features of secondary maturity. Again fresh and relatively elegant and graceful, maybe even lean. A fairly one-dimensional juicy quaffer. In fact, I thought it was pretty tasty for a Pinot (which I'm usually not very fond of). 16.5/20
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Much thick, darker, more alcoholic than Hollerin' M. And therefore less Pinot-typicity. The strawberry/cranberry/cherry-fruit salad has a burnt and smoky character that is hard to appreciate for me and actually reminded me of South-african wines of lesser stature. Could be anything, could be from anywhere (where it's hot). 16/20
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Served with Veel Cheek/Sweetbread/Chicory
Remarkably restrained, almost traditional Northern-Rhone-like bouquet, with dried herbs, cherries and cassis, seared bacon. On the palate this classical feel continues and shows evident notes of tobacco, coffee, tar and red fruit. There is also an old books/dusty paper-kind of quality and some saline minerality peeking through. Now loosing its babyfat, but still maintaining its brightness and vivacity. I sense hardly any evolution in aromas and taste, but the structure is entering its midlife plateau and getting more mellow, softer. Beautiful. 18-18.5/20
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Stupendous, rich, creamy and earthy nose showing tobacco, panfried mushrooms, black cherries and cassis, Asian spice and licorice. IMO, tonight, this wine had the best position in the drinking window. Front row, sun on its face! Perfectly a-point. No demonstrative sweetness, alcohol neatly packaged. Silky soft and very complex, deep and cerebral. One of many fantastic wines this evening. 19/20
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Served with Oxtail Cassoulet
Mindblowing... Ultramodern and, nevertheless, unbelievably classy, complex and focussed. Licorice, all sorts of black fruit, oldfashioned spices, exotic flowers, bacon, creme de cassis, this wine goes everywhere in your mouth and in your head. But in the long and structured finale all these nuances and complexity assemble again and cross the finish hand in hand. Sweetness is not overbearing and gives this wine its pleasant and intense, unctuous mouthfeel. Phenomenal wine. 19+/20
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Yep, I agree. Corked
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Served blind as an intermezzo
Very powerful and sweet, nodding to jammy. Liquorice, black fruit, pipe tobacco, spicebox. The structure of this wine is not too fat, even rather graceful. Good fresh, mouthwatering acidity gives lift and drinkability. Needs some extra years to develop some rugged nuances of complexity and maturation. 18+/20
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This was a worthy competitor to the most intense wine of the evening. Extremely impressive and demanding attention. Assorted nuts and eucalypt on the nose, which is almost overpowering with blackberries, espresso and oak. Big, anabolic and fierce. Turbulent mouthfeel, out of control pace and richness. Lots of bacon and smoky, dried hams. Tons of potential and promise, but at the moment larger than life. Could easily gain an extra point in 5 years time. 18,5/20
Generously donated by a participant who couldn't make it to the tasting.... Thanks a lot!
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Served with Dutch Deer Fillet
Indeed, this is way to young to elaborate on. Still very port-like, this black and red fruit cocktail has a nice purity and is simply outrageously good and fun to taste. Spicebox, black cherries, extra-dark chocolate. Chockfull of sweet and suave tannines, which just provides the right rugged and rough feel on the palate that you're looking for. Stained our teeth a touch more black than they already were... 18.5/20
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Humm. Liked this Syrah the least (in this series of 8). Of course, this still is a tremendous and promising young wine, but I found it a little chunky and angular, slightly indiscriminate. But hey, I'm not complaining and would be happy to reassess this wine in 3 years time. Ideally, it would show a little more breed and balance then, while the pretty notes of beefstock, black fruit, dried meat and fresh kitchenherbs would still be noticeable. 17+/20
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Served with assorted Cheeses
Sweet creamy cherryfruit, like in a cherrypie. Lacking depth and complexity at the moment. Very sweet and slightly monolithic. Where is the garrigue/herbaceousness? Where is the badly needed complexity? My palate seems to have a problem with grenache in general, and when they're modern and New-Worldy in particular. Can't help to feel that these kind of wines are thick and big, but the beauty goes only skin deep. So, beautifully crafted , but not for me. 16.5/20
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(Raven #1) Hummm. Maybe there is hope... Liked this example of Grenache a lot better than the Pictures. Darker, smokier, more complex. More spice and bite. Maybe more Syrah in the blend? Or is it just the extra year of bottle time? Big and bold, sure. But lively acidity and burgeoning complexity make sure that this is also interesting for me. Good stuff. 18/20
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Served with Dessert of White and Milk chocolate
Wildly expressive nose, good spice, not too sweet, tannines are ripe and a little rough at the moment. Just like they ought to be. Nice and tight, good focus. Have to be careful, I'm starting to appreciate those Grenaches...
Crunchy, ripe cherries, milk chocolate, patisserie. Enormously concentrated, no grace yet. The future is promising here. 18+/20
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Enchanting, fascinating nose of luxurious oak, black cherries and sweet pipe tobacco. The depth and complexity of this wine are frightening and hard to fathom. Like an abyss. Dark, sinister and mysterious. Difficult to pinpoint the different nuances at the moment, because it's still clenched like a fist. Burning fireplaces, smoldering incence, Jugged Hare, candied cherries ('Amarenen'). Soft, yet bold and powerful. Unctuous and mouthcoating. Like the Germans say: "Ein Wahnsinnswein!" 19.5/20 and cruising to perfection..
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Served blind to get fresh again...
Immediately recognisable as an Egon Müller. For me the aromas of crustaceans, samphire, saline minerality and white fruit (green apple, pear, starfruit) tell the whole story. And again this example is incredibly pure, focussed and energetic. A first class thirst quencher! Of course, this is a tad on the sweet side at the moment. But I expect this to be in a wonderful position in 2-3 years time. 18/20
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Beautiful mature Riesling, drinking perfectly now. Lots of petrol, animal nuances, and intriguing slatey, hearty, sweaty minerality. Still enough fruit to keep it fresh and vivacious, but it's changing from fresh fruit to tutti frutti. Sweetness is resolving, so the aftertaste ends in a focussed and clean, almost dry mouthfeel. Might be just a little bit abrupt and clipped, but that's splitting hairs. 18/20
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Personal WOTN: SQN - A Shot in the Dark Syrah 2006
Other wines to look out for: SQN whites and syrahs, Krug Grande Cuvée
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1995 M. Hostomme Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 90 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Disgorged September 13, 2010 (!)
Gorgeous nose with only a faint whiff of oxidation, just the way I like it. In fact, it reminded me of a younger Bollinger RD. Juicy and playful, extremely subtle mousse. Elegant wine. Serious stuff and a real discovery for me. Recommended. 17,5/20
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NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée 94 Points
France, Champagne
Magical, enchanting and mysterious bouquet wafts from the glass revealing beautiful notes of oystershell, crustaceans, incense and smoked ham. On the palate this is is very soft and fruitful, but the smoky notes do not reflect on the palate. Medium mousse. Extremely well crafted wine with an unforgettable nose. 18,5/20
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