Alicia's surprise birthday party

An evening shared with close friends. We'll begin with a few Champers, move to the whites, then to the slew of reds. The menu tonight is a bit of a surprise, but I know the chef and his deep well of talent. I'll open a wine from my wife's birthyear ('70), one from the 80's, a few from the 90's, several from the 00's and one from 2010 - five decades of juice, nothing spoiled or corked (pre-inspected all of them), should be a great, memorable night. Never surprised my wife before (too hard, she's nosy), so looking forward to it all. A few add'l wines will likely find their way to this event, but I can only list what I'm bringing to the dance.

• 2010 Niepoort Projectos Vinho Verde Dócil

  Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde

  PnP. Nearly pale in the glass. Fresh saline, seashell, a touch of hay and quince, fresh green apple. Green apple dominates the palate upon first attack, followed by citrus tones, and minerals as the weight spreads across the palate. This is one of the fleshiest Vinho Verde I've had - serving temp is critical though and if it's too cold you'll miss just how wonderful this is. Very fresh, lovely tang and verve with a medium+ finish. Great starter wine, recommended, drink thru 2013, 11,0% abv, score: B+/A-

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• 2009 François Chidaine Vouvray Sec Les Argiles

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  PnP. Pale toward straw core. Reticent nose of honey, pebbles, saline, mineral and cream. Nearly medium-bodied, very bright acids, tart, citrus and apples with a dash of spice. Another one that will be missed for its delicacy and balance if it is served too cold. Long finish, clean, dry. recommended, drink thru 2015, 13,5% abv, score: B+ (upside noted)

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• 1983 Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Merlot

  USA, California, San Francisco Bay, San Ysidro District

  Opened 7 hours before serving to decant for sediment and inspect. Returned to bottle minus sediment. Cork broke but removed cleanly. Faded ruby core, tawny reddish orange rim. Green bell pepper, cracked black pepper, milk chocolate, black soil, a touch of VA. Ten minutes in the glass doesn't see this move very much. Taste. Acids very lively, fruit starts slowly, expands. Pyrazines follow to the palate, citrus, red berries, cigar ash, a hint of cream and toast. For 28 yrs old, I've had a lot worse, better too. But this is a fun wine to examine for its structure and savory, mature nature. The finish shows promise, perhaps by tonight it will be more of what I hope for. Drink now, no mention of abv (seems 13% at the most) on label, score: B

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• 2005 Knipser Blauer Spätburgunder Trocken

  Germany, Pfalz

  Opened to inspect 6 hours before serving, cork in perfect condition. Faded garnet core, bricking all the way to the rim. Sous bois, cherry, spice, autumn leaves, a hint of raspberry. Medium-bodied with abundant acidity. The layers of fruit grab you from the first moment and continue to reveal themselves all the way through long, silky finish that sports a gently touch of savory. A few minutes more in the glass, a new, more intense fruit profile emerges with considerably more complexity to balance it out. Re-cork, will serve in 6 hours. Fantastic and highly recommended. Drink thru 2019, 13,0% abv, score: A- (upside noted)

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• 1970 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Opened to inspect and decant for sediment. Cork soaked through but removed cleanly, unbroken. The initial moments on the nose bring meback to my youth, to a weathered barn that sat upon the family farm. Freshly turned earth, dust. Only two minutes later, the fruit began to peak out, the moment of time that was captured just before the cork was placed in the bottle floated away. Brick red core, faded to the rim. Mature aromas of saddle leather at first, followed by red currant, chocolate, a hint of kirsch, autumn red floral. I can tell I'm going to love this wine and I have yet to taste it. 10 minutes in the glass and taste - acids, tannins and fruit still very much alive, especially the tannins. Dry, graceful medium body with flavors of cherry, red berries, toast. Very long finish that builds intensity. The palate gains strength and complexity with airtime. the tannins and acids will outlive the fruit, but this is the time to enjoy. I will re-cork and serve in 6 hours, this should be a stunner. Drink thru 2016, 12,5% abv, score: A-

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• 2006 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Open 6 hours before serving, cork like new. Light toward medium garnet, slight bricking. Opens with signature W-S nose of toasted bread, red berry, spice, caramel, herbs. Medium+ body, bold red fruit, grippy tannins and very lively acids. Long, layered, spicy finish. This will be fantastic tonight. Drink thru 2018, 14,2% abv, score: A-

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• 1991 Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Opened 6 hours before serving to inspect, decant for sediment, returned to bottle. Cork soaked all the way to the capsule, which was actually wet to the touch. Not a promising start. Faded ruby core, bricking to the rim. This is open and ready for business, yay! Dark chocolate, cassis, worn leather, cigar wrapper, a hint of graphite. Lovely. Taste - mature, medium bodied with a finish that lasts and lasts. Flavors follow from the nose. Finish goes on and on. Impressive. Returned to bottle, will serve in 6 hours. Drink thru 2016, 13,0% abv, score: A-/A

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• 2005 Feudi della Medusa Arrubias Isola dei Nuraghi IGT

  Italy, Sardinia, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT

  Opened to inspect 6 hours before serving. Deep ruby toward purple core, no sign of age. Plum, smoke, earth, garrigue, barnyard. Lovely old world nose reeks terroir and typicity. Full-bodied, stunning mouthfeel. Flavors follow from the nose. Finish is clean, powerful and layered, long. Lovely juice. Drink thru 2016, 13,5% abv, score: A-
  
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• 1998 Château Cos d'Estournel

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

  Opened to inspect 6 hours before serving, cork like new. Pungent black earth, tomato soup, leather, cocoa powder mixed with herbs and bright plum, carob. Stunning nose. Good attack, with grippy, fine-grained tannins. Full-bodied, balanced, long finish with flavors that follow from the nose. Masculine build, powerful. Missing some prettier fruits that would take this to a solid A, but I blame the vintage more than the winegrower. Drink thru 2018, 12,5% abv, score: A-

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• 1994 Ivan Tamas Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

  USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

  Opened to inspect 6 hours before serving. Cork like brand new, perfect. Faded ruby core, bricked and faded to the rim. Red currant, cherry liqueur, sage, vanilla bean, cream. Full-bodied, fresh palate leads with powerful red and black berries, pencil lead, leaves. Powerful, fine-grained tannins, excellent balance and very fresh acids. Long, layered finish that builds in intensity. Sure to please many people at dinner tonight. Drink thru 2018, 13,0% abv, score: A-

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• 2004 Domaine du Mas Blanc (Docteur Parcé) Banyuls Collita

  France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Banyuls

  Opened to inspect 6 hours before serving. Brown sugar, bright raspberry, toffee, earthen dust, milk chocolate. Banyuls, yum. Tonight's closer with OTT beignets. This is obviously fading, the impact and complexity of the fruit on its downward slide. Drink thru 2014, 17,5% abv, score: B/B+

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