33rd Austin Wine Salon - Bordeaux

Max's Underground
Tasted Sunday, March 4, 2012 by steffenpelz with 1,016 views

Introduction

Yesterday, we met for our 33rd Austin Wine Salon. In attendance were a number of Austin's sommeliers and sommeliers in training, as well as collectors. The theme was Bordeaux, and it is not an understatement to say that the tasting was awe inspiring both in its scope, as well as with respect to the quality of the wines present. On to the notes.

Flight 1 - The Appellations - Part 1 (4 Notes)

  • 2005 Château Haut-Bergey

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Very primary, juicy, black currant tar and coffee. Nothing to write home about, but nothing to scoff at either. At the going rate of $40/bottle, this would be a pass in my book.

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  • 1999 Château Monbousquet

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Dark fruited, vanilla, spice and violets. A certain meatiness and charcuterie quality. But all the good fruit and nuance is killed by excessive oak which shows itself as rough tannins on the palate and burnt espresso beans on the finish. Time has not been kind to this wine. I think it was better in its youth when the fruit was bigger an more vibrant.

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  • 1999 Vieux Château Certan

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Amazing bottle of wine. Full of earth, truffle spice, cherry fruit, tobacco, leather and a hint of anise seed. Elegance, finesse, and exceptional purity. Fantastic texture and finish. Universally the wine of the flight and my personal runner-up wine of the tasting (WOTT).

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  • 1999 Château d'Issan

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Very soft and feminine. Light cherry fruit with leather, tobacco and balsamic on the palate. Finish was OK. Good wine, but not something I was viscerally excited about. Maybe a touch too soft and non-descript for me.

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Flight 2 - The Appellations - Part 2 (4 Notes)

  • 2002 Château Lynch-Bages

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Very strong showing. Cassis, cigar box, earth, graphite, meat juice, and outstanding acidity. Loved the texture. If vintage 2002 shows like this across the board, many will be sorry they missed buying in this vintage.

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  • 2001 Château Montrose

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    Completely shut down. Black fruit, lead pencil shavings, earth, and beeswax. Just in an awkward state at the moment. The pieces are there, but it hasn't all come together yet. I would say it needs 5 more years at least before it's in the early drinking window. For me, it's a wine to taste starting in about 2020.

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  • 2000 Clos du Marquis

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Surprising wine. I have never been a fan of Clos du Marquis, but this was really nice. Beautiful and generous red fruit, leather, tobacco, plum and tar. Velvety texture and sweet, ripe fruit, yet nicely balanced and drinking mighty fine.

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  • 2000 Château Cru Cantemerle

    France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur

    Just OK for me. Muted on the nose, and certainly nice black currant fruit/cassis liqueur. The 2000 vintage looms large in the generous and plush fruit this wine shows. Lacks a little bit of complexity and excitement though.

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Flight 3 - The Appellations - Double Blind (7 Notes)

This flight turned out to be extremely challenging. I joked before we started that it was time for me to eat some humble pie, but little did I know that I wouldn't guess a single appellation correctly. Fortunately, I did much better on identifying the respective banks the wines came from. As always, tasting double blind is very educational and fun.

  • 1995 Château Calon-Ségur

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    Tasted blind. Very earth, floral, and cracked black pepper. Ultra dark fruit. Felt a little rough on the palate.I guessed the bank right, but the appellation wrong. Interesting wine to start with.

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  • 1994 Château Gazin Pomerol

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Tasted blind. Earth and truffle aromas and flavors dominated this wine, but there was beautiful cherry fruit underneath and a really silky, wonderful texture. My co- wine of the flight (CWOTF). I guessed bank right, but appellation wrong.

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  • 1994 Château Grand Mayne

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Tasted blind. Baking spice and cigar box. Muted on the nose and slightly hollow on the mid-palate. Very high acid. I had no idea what this was. It showed zero typicity for right or left bank to me. I guessed both incorrectly.

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  • 1994 Château Léoville Barton

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Tasted blind. Cassis, cured ham, violets and savory, almost iodine note. Quite nice, but somewhat unexciting. I guessed the bank correctly, but the appellation incorrectly.

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  • 1994 Château Pontet-Canet

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Tasted blind. This was a fun wine. Generous fruit, soft, velvety. All cherry fruit and a hefty dose of funk which I rather liked a lot. My other CWOTF. I got the bank and appellation wrong.

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  • 1994 Château Palmer

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Tasted blind. Very heavy bell pepper and cracked pepper in this wine. Very taut and reserved. Soft fruit though. Very difficult to assess. I guessed the bank correctly, but the appellation wrong.

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  • 1994 Château La Mission Haut-Brion

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Tasted blind. This one was flawed. Initially we guessed TCA, but we eventually settled on massive brett. Just not pleasant to drink. Too bad as the classy texture was just oozing from this wine. I would have loved a taste from a good bottle. Impossible to guess the bank and appellation. I got both wrong.

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Flight 4 - Free-for-All (10 Notes)

At the end of the Salon, there were tons of wines lined up for tasting and it was not a structured part of the tasting. Nevertheless, you can see the wines were pretty amazing. There were many other wines that I didn't even taste because they were either reportedly flawed and because my palate was getting pretty tired.

  • 1970 Château Latour Grand Vin

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Great bottle and easily my WOTT. Flawless, supple texture, incredible sweetness of fruit, wonderful balance. Earth, truffle and animale. This one had it all. Close to perfection in a bottle.

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  • 1990 Château Figeac

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Another one of the superstars in this tasting in my opinion. Lovely elegant fruit, yet very nervy. Shows abundant earth and cherry fruit. Quite lovely, yet still very stern wine. Could benefit from more time in bottle.

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  • 1990 Château Angélus

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Very powerful. Super dark, ripe fruit and some nice earth and dried herbs. Unfortunately, the oak masked much of the nuance. Not my favorite wine i this tasting.

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  • 1990 Château Troplong Mondot

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Similar to the Angelus, this was a young monster of a wine that has tremendous fruit and extract. There's earth, licorice, and plum, but again...the oak is masking the good things going on in this wine. Scary to see that a 20 year old wine is still not drinking at peak and the oak is sticking out, making the texture very angular.

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  • 1964 Château Clinet

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Others liked this more than I did. I thought it was over the hill. Slightly madeirized and short on the finish. It still has some fruit, but it's all about the mossy, leafy characteristics now.

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  • 1978 Château Léoville Las Cases

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Lovely wine. Drinking wonderfully right now, this still had vibrant red fruit, a core of cigar box and pencil shavings, and superb balance. Truffle and autumn leaves. Silky texture and sweet, ripe fruit on the finish. Loved this one.

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  • 1996 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Superstar wine. Elegance and finesse personified. All about soft red fruit with loads of tobacco and game. This is textbook Pichon Lalande.

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  • 1999 Château Haut-Brion

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Showed massive fruit. Felt very young and none of the secondary and tertiary aromas and flavors I like were really obvious. At this point, this wine will need much more time in bottle before it will show its true potential.

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  • 1990 Château Pape Clément

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Unquestionably one of the best wines of the tasting, this wine won me over with its amazing fruit, texture and nose, but despite all the richness of the fruit, there was elegance, and lots of earth and animale. Just fantastic.

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  • 1982 Château La Conseillante

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Unfortunately, I only got the very last few sips out of this bottle. Very difficult to tell the condition of the wine. Therefore, I will reserve judgment.

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Closing

Thanks to Brian for organizing this Salon, as well as all the generous donors of the incredible lineup of wines.

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