Deep yellow. Some petrol and yellow peach. Just off dry. Excellent, sneaky acidity which is more than it initially seems. Full bodied. A bit nutty. Whereas 3 years ago, I thought that this was rapidly approaching the end of its life, it has soldiered on and resisted oxidation and fatigue. Really excellent tonight.
Medium color. Some lemon and toast. Mid-weight, some creaminess. Dry, good acidity. Somewhat coarse but plenty to this. My experience with white Marsannay is, ahem, fairly limited (i.e., non-existent).
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Fairly deep ruby. Pungent, gamy nose followed by the strongest imaginable scent of pine needles. This just bores its way right into the olfaction center. Medium weight, prominent dose of acidity which is not yet folded into the wine, black fruit, licorice and a profound sense of soil. Still very young with rough edges. Needs time but will always be rough and tumble rather than sleek and satiny.
Deep yellow, although perhaps a shade lighter than the '98 regular cuvee. Marvelously complex nose with petrol, thyme, and fruit characterized by one taster as grapefruit. Even some smokiness creeps in. Less ripe than the '98 regular Frederic Emile. Wonderful broad texture balanced by deeply imbued acidity. The freshness was astonishing for a 29 year old white, and it just kept on growing in complexity in the glass. The overall impression was that it seemed less sweet than its younger, non-VT counterpart. Amazing wine.