Tom's house in Palo Alto, California
Tasted Thursday, May 31, 2012 by europat55 with 647 views
Notes from the event organizer:
In today's cult Cabernet world, Merlot sometimes comes across as the invisible sidekick of its bigger brother varietal, often relegated only to a blending role to slightly soften the Cabernet, with some Merlot perhaps released as a separate bottling if there is extra in a particular vintage. This is so different from the 1980s and 1990s, when Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon shared starring roles on the center stage and often equivalent pricing. Merlot's decline wasn't helped by Miles in the movie Sideways, when he famously said "I don't drink no stinking Merlot" early in the plot (while ironically drinking a Merlot-dominated Chateau Cheval Blanc in a defining moment later).
Merlot's current position in the California wine world is largely unjustified. Cultivated properly and harvested at low yields, Merlot can produce world class wines, as many of the East Bank first and second growth Bordeaux have proven for a couple centuries. And they can age as well as Cabs -- in our retrospective tastings of older Cabernets from 1984, 1985 and 1986, the Merlots have done surprisingly (sometimes shockingly) well, beating out much more famous Cabernets and Bordeaux.
Tonight, we'll do a more direct comparison. We'll have pairs of Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots from four wineries that specialize in both: Lewis, Newton, Beringer and Swanson. All pairs are from 1997, an outstanding vintage for both varietals. As these wines reach their 15th anniversary, they should be nearing their peak.
I don't have a lot of experience with aged Merlots, so I had a very hard time discerning the Cabs vs. Merlots in this line-up tonight.
I ranked the Merlots in 2nd, 3rd, 5th, 6th position in the line-up today.
The Merlots were ranked 2nd, 3rd, 5th & 9th by the group.
1997 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Le Puzzle 93 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Some (good) funk on the nose with earthy licorice scents. A little bit of funk on the palate as well with cassis and cocoa flavors. This wine had body, depth and lots of character. Very tasty! Tasted blind. My 1st & group's 1st (44 pts).
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1997 Swanson Merlot 91 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Very good nose with some dark fruits smell. Some dark fruits in the palate as well. Very smooth. Drinking well right now. Tasted blind. My 2nd & group's 2nd (52 pts).
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1997 Beringer Vineyards Merlot Bancroft Ranch 90 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
Very good sweet nose. Smooth tannins. Some chocolate. Tasted blind. My 3rd & group's 9th (90 pts)
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1997 Lewis Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 89 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Fruity nose, but a little bit hot. Smooth palate. Long finish. Tasted blind. My 4th & group's 4th (67 pts)
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1997 Lewis Cellars Merlot 89 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County
Some (good) funk on the nose. Very good smooth palate, but somehow a little bit thin. Tasted blind. My 5th & group's 3rd (55 pts).
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1997 Newton Epic Merlot 87 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Very good, but somewhat shy nose with a little bit of alcohol. Too tannic for the amount of fruit left. Tasted blind. My 6th & group's 5th (69 pts).
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1997 Swanson Cabernet Sauvignon 86 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
This nose with some plum and pineapple. Soft/thin palate. Tasted blind. My 7th & group's 6th (71 pts).
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1997 Château Terrey-Gros-Cailloux 85 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Very weird nose (not funk, just weird). Very thin palate. Tasted blind. My 8th and group's 8th (88 pts).
I've had this wine a few other times this year and it performed better. This was included as a Bdx ringer in our California Cabernet-Merlot tasting tonight and most people were able to identify this as the ringer.
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1997 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley 85 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
Offending fund on the nose, but smooth palate. Tasted blind. My 8th & group's 7th (88 pts).
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