Burgs About Town

For some reason, everyone decided to open Burgundy this weekend. No complaints here.

• 2010 Domaine Costal Chablis Les Truffières

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  (9/28/2012)

  Surprisingly full yellow. Citrus nose leaning toward orange. Full body, very textural, rich and rounder than I expected. Could use more Chablis character. Good but I would have guessed 2009.

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• 2010 Francine et Olivier Savary Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  (9/28/2012)

  Pale greenish. In contrast to the Costal, utterly typical iodine and sea breeze aromas. Lean, chalky, mouthwatering Chablis, not at all fruit driven, even at this early stage.

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• 2010 Domaine de Chantemerle Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  (9/28/2012)

  Light yellow. A whiff of sulfur. Dry, austere and hard.

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• 2010 Jean-Luc Dubois Chorey-les-Beaune Clos Margot Cuvée Unique Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chorey-les-Beaune

  (9/28/2012)

  Bright red. Cheery, fruity nose of red fruits. Light, bright and easygoing, but some charred wood pokes through, too prominent for the weight and body of the wine. Another taster said Gamay-like overall impression, and I think that is an apt description.

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• 2009 Jérôme Chezeaux Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  (9/28/2012)

  Medium ruby. After the bright fruit of the previous wine, the earthiness of this was fairly striking. Medium weight, clenched feel, dark red fruit, and as above, a good helping of soil. Powerful acidity, moderate tannins. An atypically structured 2009.

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• 2009 Domaine Bruno Clair Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru

  (9/28/2012)

  Darkly pigmented. Blackberry fruit. The concentration and creaminess I associate with old vines. Deep black fruit, quite tannic but without the briary edge that Savigny often has. Strong graphite finish. Serious and backward. Classy wine.

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• 2011 Maison Champy Mâcon-Villages

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Villages

  (9/29/2012)

  Tropical fruit, slight toast. Buttery feel with a woody base, citrus fruit, average acidity.

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• 2011 Domaine Désertaux-Ferrand Bourgogne Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

  (9/29/2012)

  Distinctly apply nose. Modest flavors, some body, mineral finish. Bleh.

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• 2010 Maison Champy Chardonnay Bourgogne Blanc Signature

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

  (9/29/2012)

  Flint and toasty oak. Surprisingly rich, also toasty in the mouth, good length for a Bourgogne. OK and maybe better than that if you can stand the amount of wood at this level.

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• 2010 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  (9/29/2012)

  Medium yellow. Pear and oak aromatics. Medium weight. Dry, good acidity, wood less prominent in the mouth. Nice lemony finish.

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• 2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  (9/29/2012)

  Pale. Green fruit and oyster shell. Light weight, dry and intense with driving acidity. Excellent and fine.

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• 2010 Château de la Charrière Bourgogne

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  (9/29/2012)

  Medium color. Attractive nose of cherry and char. However, light weight, simple, straightforward and tannic for what it is.

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• 2010 Maison Champy Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de Bully

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses

  (9/29/2012)

  Pale. Quite perfumed and herbaceous. Light with black fruit and some earth. Good acidity, nicely balanced but falls off on the finish. Not bad for the low $20s price range.

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• 2010 Château de la Charrière Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay 1er Cru

  (9/29/2012)

  Light ruby. Slightly earthy nose. Light, brambly, not much fruit. Generic, not worth even the modest price.

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• 2010 Maison Champy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  (9/29/2012)

  Medium depth. Complex mixed fruit and a trace of wood. Starts of light to medium bodied, but expansive with great palate presence. Intense black fruit and spiciness. This really picks up sap and takes off in the mouth. Excellent wine.

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• 2009 Thibault Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée

  (9/29/2012)

  Moderately dark ruby. Some funk. Immediately riper and richer smelling than the Champy. I find the fruit blurrier and less focused. Lower acidity, herbal finish. Unimpressive.

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• 2010 Trénel Fils Saint Véran

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Saint Véran

  (9/29/2012)

  Very attractive (much more so than the lower end whites tasted earlier today) with an admirable balance of rich, citric fruit, good acidity and a deft touch of oak. Very nice feel, and overall, a winning Macon.

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• 2007 Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  (9/29/2012)

  Medium to light color. Spicy red fruit, iron and licorice. Medium weight, bright acidity, some char that rises on the finish. Typical and good.

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• 2007 Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  (9/29/2012)

  Medium ruby. Tart red fruit aromatics. Lively acidity, light body, good thread of earth that carries through to the end. Very drinkable now.

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• 2008 Méo-Camuzet Frère et Sœurs Marsannay

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  (9/29/2012)

  Medium color. Funky nose. Black fruit and anise. Simple and dull. A bad joke at the price.

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• 2008 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  (9/29/2012)

  Light and slightly cloudy. Very Nuits nose of scorched earth and forest tones-amazing for a 4 year old wine. Fantastically complex, tangy red fruit and long, soil-filled finish. This utilizes the 2008 acidity perfectly to energize the wine. Shockingly good and the best red wine of the weekend for me.

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• 2009 Domaine des Croix Beaune

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune

  (9/29/2012)

  Medium center, light edge. Easygoing, ripe nose. Sappy red and blue fruit bordering on sweet with discrete smokiness and solid acidity. It wouldn't be hard to mistake this for a cooler climate New World Pinot. For a village Beaune, I liked it a lot and think it will drink very well over the short term.

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