Magic Number 6 - 2006,1996,1986,1976,1966

The Papies, Elizabeth St, London
Tasted Saturday, September 29, 2012 by Papies with 343 views

Introduction

With some very good friends, some nice wine and good food.
Theme of the night as per the title were decades with 6.

Flight 1 - The Start (3 Notes)

San Danielle & Figs / Truffle Salami / Little Terrine of Fois Gras Burgers / Pata Negra Sausages & Fried Polenta

  • 2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Another great showing. 30 Minutes of decanting ( much needed).
    Showing a bit more colour than last time it is now a nice glossy gold. A very fine Meursault, with good oak balalncing the honey, buttery and nutty notes. Vibrant and mineral on th epalate, with a lot of depth and with a fatty feel to it with good acidity. Simply a beautiful & elegant wine As we always say this is an arbitrage of quality vs price. 94-95 and drinks nicely at the moment.

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  • 1966 Château Gruaud Larose 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    From an old school little squat Cordier Bottle. Decanted for 30 minutes and definitely helped develop and open the wine which was muted on the nose on open. Has lots of fine sediment which we disturbed and was a bit of cloudy. Not as nice as the one we had a year ago but at this age the old saying of "there are only good bottles not good wines" holds true. Good level and cork.
    Fully matured and the nose of of earthy, mushroomy, light cedar. Singing nose. On the palate the life is still there but far from its peak and although an enjoyable wine the vibrancy is fading and we would suggest having it sooner than later. Definitely go for Ex-Chateau bottles as the one we tried a year ago was definitely a lot better than this general trade one. 92 for this one (vs 95 for the Ex Chateau a year ago)

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  • 1976 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva 94 Points

    Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

    Bought of the WFW tasting notes and the special praise given by Jancis Robinson.
    Good level and cork and a little decanting helped develop the wine. Light on the sediment. Colour is showing the wine's age and is bricking red. Mature nose of light earth and mushroom notes, a touch of bdx feel to it in a way. On the palate it is in another league, alive and vibrant with still fruit probably at peak now and drinks beautifuly. Such elegance and balance, this is quality aaged Rioja at its best, classical and great. Bottle Variation is always the elephant in the room when it comes to old Rioja but this bottle was singing. 94 easy.

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Flight 2 - The Beauties (2 Notes)

Fois Gras Poele & Sweet Potato, Parsnip & Polenta mash

  • 1976 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 97 Points

    France, Champagne

    Would love to know the journey this wine made from Epernay via a US importer to our cellar.
    Confirms the legend (and price unfort) that is Dom! 36 years young, full yeasty and toasty notes, apple, light nutty, caramel notes; such complexity. Kept monitoring it over the dinner and the nose was singing all along. On the palate it is still vibrant and very much alive. Good acidity, a touch on the dry side vs the rich sweetness we expected (like the 1990) , healthy bubbles (they are still there!), with good depth and a long finish. Granted the sharpness of youth is long gone but this has now evolved into another dimension. 97-98 hands down.

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  • 1996 Serafin Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin 97 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

    WOTN against very difficult competition.Opened and left to settle but no decanting.
    Wine was singing from the start! Still dark in colour true to Serafin style. Meaty dense on the nose with dark fruits complementing the pinot aromatics, still some oak, sweet fruit notes, light floral. Kept on going back and back. Wonderful aromatics! On the palate it has the density of fruit, good exraction and with silky round tannins. Such palate presence and depth! This is true to form amazing Charmes-Chambertin worthy of Grand Cru status. 97+

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Flight 3 - The Main (2 Notes)

Papies signature 12 Hour Pork & fried polenta cones

  • 1986 Château Léoville Las Cases

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Not a representative bottle and having tasted this in the past (Scored 97) in true form we were dissapointed to find a muted wine with little give. Not flawed but nowhere close to what a proper 86 LLC can be. Shame really.

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  • 1996 Paolo Scavino Barolo Carobric 95 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    A proper well aged barolo! Decanted for 2 hours but really the wine is open from start and very expressive.
    Barolo aromatics, dark cherry, light sweet notes from the oak and light secondary earthy notes blend to create an elegant nose. Very expressive and long and held its ground vs difficult competition. On the palate it has a nice density of fruit, very much alive , complex and a very long with good acidity and really so nice to come across such a gem. A beauty. (94 Andreas / 95 Nicol)

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Flight 4 - The Cheeses (1 Note)

  • 1996 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Méal 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Le Meal, Old french for the best. Came at the end of a very long and strong line up yet even our tired palates did not fail to appreciate this gem of a wine. Needs decanting and we did so for 3 hours which definitely helped to open the wine.
    Strong wine yet with elegance and balance. The nose developed nicely with good fruit, light spicy (none of the overdone syrah spices here), very elegant and complex. On the palate it is rich, dense with firm tannins. Nothing too much , nothing out of sync. Really this can live another 30 years easily. Superb. 95 easy

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Flight 5 - The Sweets (2 Notes)

Asli's Tart Tatin, Macaroons and a hevenly green tea gateau

  • 1966 Château Suduiraut 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Dark caramel in colour. No misjudging its age here. A good well aged sauternes but in no way and great wine. It is an experience for sure to come across these oldies but it generally lacked the magic of old sauternes. Interestingly we tried it side by side with its granson the 2006 (papies 92) for completion of our tasting and to be honest we enjoyed that more. Still an experience! a lonely 90 from us

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  • 2006 Château Suduiraut 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Side by side with its grandad the 1966.
    Golden, waxy glossy in colour. Lovely balance and freshness with good notes of apricot, honey, light lemon and botrytis. Well round and fresh on the palate, decent acidity. Fine it is not the most in terms of depth and complexity but no way anyone would not enjoy this wine. For the record we liked it more than the 1966 ( Papies 90); Here is to the beauty of youth then! 92 maybe more.

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Closing

That 1976 Dom Perignon, what a joy!

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