Julien S-M's 1990 Bordeaux

RSJ, London
Tasted Tuesday, November 13, 2012 by SimonG with 233 views

Flight 1 (1 Note)

  • NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Brut "Les Vignes de Vrigny" 1er Cru 88 Points

    France, Champagne, Ambonnay, Champagne

    05 fruit, disgorged 08. Quite a rich, round and slightly toasty nose. Biscuity. Rounded, first impression reminds me of the 03 Nyetimber BdeB. After a sip or two it seems a little more acidic on the finish and more champagne-like. Comes across as a blanc de blanc with a creamy slightly bruised apple character. No, not b de b, but apparently a single varietal, so Egly's Pinot Meunièr Vignes de Vrigny? Yes. Nice with an evolved nose and front but a little less convincing on the finish. Would suit cold game quite nicely now. ***

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Flight 2 (1 Note)

  • 1989 Château Olivier Blanc 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Blind. Mid straw. Quite an intense, slightly chloriney nose with a touch of gooseberry. A touch of cream coming through too. Denser palate, a little wax and lanolin, richer in texture but with quite a fresh finish before a waxier bottom note and extended finish. Quite interesting. Quite rich, but there's a pronounced acidity coming through on the back end. Maybe not the ripest of vintage? Oops, it's 89. Olivier. Needs food and could be a bit of an effort over a full bottle, but a pleasant second aperitif. ***

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

  • 1990 Château Pape Clément 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Blind. Quite a densely fruity nose with some sweet fruit on the finish. Floral and sweetly perfumed. No more than medium weight, sweet and fragrant lifted red fruit. Malescot? Some depth starting to come through here with air. No, Pap C. ***1/2

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  • 1990 Château Malescot St. Exupéry 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Slightly meatier, denser nose, slightly more savoury and with a touch of bacon fat, not as BBQ-laden as the 85 Pape C, but this may well be the same stable. A little hotter on the finish, quite baked, ripe fruit. No, Malescot. ***

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  • 1990 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Blind. Sweet, meaty fruit, floral and fragrant. Denser on the palate, a slight hint of dryness near the front of the finish before easing up and showing more rounded and slightly sweet fruit. Pav Rouge? There is a depth and density here, but it's not showing as well as at the Brighton Palmer bash. ***1/2

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Flight 4 (3 Notes)

  • 1990 La Grange Neuve de Figeac 85 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Blind. Seems more mature, slightly porty, figgy, ripe, thick legs around the glass. A little disjointed for me. Lacks harmony. Others prefered it more. **1/2

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  • 1990 Château Clerc Milon 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Blind. Slightly Christmas cake, sweet fruited nose and palate with some blackcurrant coming through. If this is what I think it's a little more exuberant than previous bottle, but it still has that exotic character tempered by some refreshing blackcurrant leaf. Lovely. ****

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  • 1990 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Blind. Dry, slightly corky palate, seems a little stripped on the palate after a reasonably cedar fruited nose. Shame. Thought it was Ducru on the nose and the corked palate probably confirms it. Yes, gets worse with air. No

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Flight 5 (3 Notes)

  • 1990 Domaine de Chevalier 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Slightly smoky nose. Quite rich and full on the attack. Blackcurrant fruit. Blackcurrant leaf on the nose and a slight mintiness. Think this is Bat. No, DDC. ****

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  • 1990 Château Batailley 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Blind. Served a lot colder which confuses, but smells a lot lighter and more evolved. Think this is Esprit. No, Bat. Really quite cheesy, not quite sure what's wrong here, maybe Brett of some sort? Anyway, not convinced this is correct, and if it is, I'm not keen. ** 84 on first impression. However, this is pulling together as it warms up and is does seem to be getting better. Will have another go later... Yes, still not all there, but this really improves to top ***

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  • 1990 L'Esprit de Chevalier 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Blind. There's a resemblance to the second wine, but more density here. Think this is DDC. No, Esprit. A little less dense and slightly less fruity than what turns out to be the DDC, but a very good showing. Top ***

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Flight 6 (3 Notes)

  • 1990 Château Belair (Dubois-Challon) 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Blind. Dry and quite dense on the nose. A dryness to the fruit and finish. Not overdone as the others are, but this is still quite hard work cf the previous flights. A little overdone, there's an extracted dryness rather than nicely ripe fruit. Bare *** Belair I think.

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  • 1990 Château Troplong Mondot 78 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Blind. Port. Very overdone, porty alcoholic. I really don't like this. * unless you like your claret smelling and tasting of port. Troplong? *. Apparently far better and balanced when opened but appears to have fallen apart very quickly with air.

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  • 1990 Château Beausejour (Duffau Lagarrosse) Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Blind. Stewed, spicy, beefy, soy nose. A little dry and quite linear on the nose. Guess BDL. Apparently unrepresentative of previous bottles. It's preferable to the Trop, but... ***. Apparently this was unrepresentative of previous bottles from the same case which were dense, dark-fruited and balanced. Cork was dry through the middle and the central part came out leaving a ring of cork remaining in the neck. Presumably a degree of oxidation.

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Flight 7 (1 Note)

Flight 8 (1 Note)

  • 1998 Château Rieussec 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Nicely fragrant, sweet-nose, pineapple, cream, a touch of coconut. Nicely sweet, a touch of botrytis. A nice line between the exuberant and classical. Showing more tropical fruits on the nose with air. ***1/2

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