Burgundy Wine Club Dinner 2013

The Breslin, NYC
Tasted Sunday, January 13, 2013 by brooklynguy with 193 views

Flight 1 (1 Note)

  • 1991 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    This is a silly thing to say, in a way, but this wine was disappointing in the context of the two previous vintages I've had. This one was marked by a bit of botrytis, and took a very long time - 3 hours maybe, to open up an reveal the complexity that I expect from a wine of this stature. And it never really got to the level of the '88 or the superb '89. Still, this is fine and compelling wine, with finesse and class, and that lovely roundness to the flavors that really draws you in. Had it been the first Montrachet for me, I think I would have emerged as a skeptic. Now, I see it as a great wine that doesn't achieve the heights it achieved in other vintages.

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Flight 2 (2 Notes)

  • 1994 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    Drunk next to the 94 Les Saint Georges. Showed a rustic side, but very pleasingly so, and actually paired better with our onion and bone marrow soup than did LSG. Balanced and pure with primary fruit still present, lots of finesse. Not as deeply pitched as LSG, but expresses itself beautifully. A vote of confidence for good producers and good terroir in th 94 vintage.

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  • 1994 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    Drunk next to 94 Vaucrains, and immediately and clearly showed that it is the finer terroir. Deeply pitched and complex dark primary fruit with a stone baseline. One taster said that the alcohol was a tiny bit out of whack, and at 13.5 it was a tick higher than Vaucrains. But showed lots of class, and a pure and delicious expression. Lovely, and another vote for good producers and good terroir in 94.

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Flight 3 (2 Notes)

Flight 4 (2 Notes)

  • 1998 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    As much as we loved the Chevillon wines, this was undeniably a clear step up - showed its Grand Cru presence and breed. Slightly smoky and very savory aromas that showcase deep dark fruit and a wall of stone, clean and direct, firm in texture, the wine is still so very young. It offers great pleasure now - I thought it was one of the best wines of the night, but there is a lot of upside potential here. Class on the palate, with great depth and complexity, and lots of detail in the savory and mineral flavors. Outperforms the reputation of the vintage, a very very fine wine.

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  • 1995 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    This wine was the one that divided people on this evening. Some loved it and were thrilled by the rich and deep fruit the wine showed while still remaining entirely stately and balanced. The wine was great, no mistaking it, but I thought it suffered next to the 98 in that it was so much less complex and detailed in every aspect except for fruit. A grand wine that showed a lot of power in a restrained way, and quite pure in delivery, and also a genuine wine in that it showed the richness of 1995. Great wine, stylistically I preferred the 1998, and I would say that objectively the 98 is a better wine.

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Flight 5 (2 Notes)

  • 1988 Joseph Drouhin Musigny Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru

    Heat damaged, completely cooked - ravaged! The wine smelled like burning peat. Such a shame.

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  • 1986 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny Vieilles Vignes

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru

    This is a hard tasting note to write because the wine was glorious, and superlatives can be both tiresome and suspicious. But it really was amazing, one of the very finest red wines I've had. Also the first Musigny I've ever had, from a bottle. The nose is acrobatic and utterly alluring, varied, complex, gorgeous. The image in my mind smelling it was a large velvet robe draped on a bed, ruffles and layers of plushness, creases that hold little secrets, demanding that you dive in. The fruit is still there, although the wine is tertiary, with subtle aromas of earth and hard spices, and all the time compellingly deep. When it first hit my tongue I was shocked by the power and focus, as it seemed from the nose that it would be a gentle old wine - not so. Intense and energetic, and it fills every cavity of the mouth and nose. Glorious wine, an advertisement for great terroir, regardless of vintage.

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