2010 UGC Bordeaux Tasting

Palace Hotel, SF
Tasted Saturday, January 19, 2013 by aagrawal with 1,011 views

Introduction

This was the UGC Tasting for the 2010 vintage in SF. Overall, the red wines were solid but much tougher to evaluate than last year. They are more tannic and unwieldy, but the fruit in most of the 2010 vintage is almost as ripe and concentrated as that in the 2009 vintage. This certainly surprised me a bit given this vintage's reputation. Because the wines were so difficult to evaluate, I tried to use wide point ranges and really just focus on my favorites in each region. It is likely that I have underscored each of these wines by a point or two, but I won't know until I see how they settle down and develop over the next decade. The sauternes were stellar... more details on those to follow. Of note, I tasted the sauternes in the middle of the tasting, before my palate got tired, so that I could accurately write notes on those wines.

Flight 1 - White Bordeaux (1 Note)

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc has been getting great press over the last few vintages, and it is well deserved. The wine is stellar, and I would love to try it again in a decade. Great richness and balance.

Flight 2 - St. Emilion (2 Notes)

I just tasted two wines here since St. Emilion is not historically one of my favorite regions. The Figeac seemed like it was more closed and less impressive than last year. The Clos Fourtet had a modern feel to it but was very well made. Neither wine makes my list of top wines.

  • 2010 Château Figeac 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Concentrated, inky, plummy; fresh, midpalate is structured, good fruit, medium finish. Solid, but nothing strikes me as profound. 90-92

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  • 2010 Clos Fourtet 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    A bit more fruity than Figeac, vanilla, youthful; full bodied, ripe fruit, blackberry, not prohibitively tannic today. 88-92

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Flight 3 - Pomerol (2 Notes)

I rarely get to try Pomerol, and that's a shame because these wines were great. The Clinet does the modern style so well, and the La Conseillante is a worthy equivalent in a more traditional complex style. I would recommend both, but for my palate my money will go towards Chateau La Conseillante.

  • 2010 Château Clinet 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Concentrated, dark, modern styled but still with bordeaux characteristics and minerality; rich black fruit, very structured and tannic. Good solid wine with perhaps less opulence than I remember in 2009 but still excellent. 92-94

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  • 2010 Château La Conseillante 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    This is fantastic. Very complex nose, balanced of fruit and spice; balanced palate with great concentrated but not overripe fruit. One of my favorites of the tasting because it seems to have more complexity and stuffing than its counterparts. 93-96+

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Flight 4 - Margaux (6 Notes)

The only truly disappointing wine of the whole tasting was the Brane Cantenac, which seemed thin. Most other Margaux showed variability but overall decent quality. The 2010 Lascombes was stellar; a Margaux made in a traditional style with great aromatics. The Malescot is always a lovely wine made in a riper modern style, but I would recommend focusing more on the Lascombes if you match my palate.

  • 2010 Château Brane-Cantenac 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Aromatic nose with some dusty fruits; palate lacks concentration and seems a bit light and thin. Not a strength of the tasting. 86-88

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  • 2010 Château Cantenac Brown 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Much better than the Brane Cantenac with a riper nose and palate, but still seems a bit simpler on the palate. A bit difficult to evaluate because it is very structured. 89-91

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  • 2010 Château Lascombes 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Elegant, perfumed red berries with some stemmy/green notes (maybe whole cluster?), complex, dusty; ripe, full bodied, lots of fruits, lots of structure. The nose on this is fantastic. Excellent wine. 93-95

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  • 2010 Château Malescot St. Exupéry 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Riper style, red fruits, vanilla; rich full bodied, red and black fruits, new oak, very structured (more than others in Margaux this year). Will need a lot of time. This was enjoyable, but it lacks the pure Margaux character that I found in the Lascombes. 89-91

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  • 2010 Château Rauzan-Ségla 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Balanced aromatic nose but a bit restrained today; ripe red fruits, balanced, structured. Good. 90-93

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  • 2010 Château Siran 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    More traditional, balanced fruits with oak; full bodied palate, black fruits. Good. 91-92

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Flight 5 - St. Julien (3 Notes)

One of my favorite regions, and this year does not disappoint. The Leoville Poyferre is truly stunning and is one of my highlights of the tasting. The Leoville Barton was a little more reticent but I have confidence that it will improve and use the stuffing it was given.

  • 2010 Château Branaire-Ducru 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Flinty smoky nose; palate is a bit thinner than the poyferre and with a bit less fruit. 90-93

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  • 2010 Château Léoville Barton 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    This is usually one of my favorites, but I thought today it was a bit reticent and subtle; nice balanced palate. Somewhat difficult to read. More than any other wine here, I trust that it will evolve in a more positive direction, but based on today's tasting I would rate it solid but not extraordinary. 90-93

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  • 2010 Château Léoville Poyferré 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Gravel, minerality, then blackberry; very well balanced with great fruit and acid. This is one of my favorites from the tasting... truly stellar St. Julien. 93-96+

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Flight 6 - Pauillac (5 Notes)

Another strength in the 2010 vintage. The Clerc Milon is always a fantastic value for the price. The Pichon Baron was stunning... also one of my wines of the tasting. The Pichon Lalande seemed a little closed.

Flight 7 - Sauternais (9 Notes)

A wonderful lineup of wines. 2010 is a great vintage to own, though I suspect that a few years in bottle will improve the wines substantially. The 2010 Coutet and the 2010 Chateau de Fargues were both stunning. The Climens was enjoyable but has never been my top favorite, though my experience is limited. The Doisy Daene would still be a great QPR buy. The Lafaurie Peyraguey has a great floral component to it that makes it appealing as well. The Suduiraut is fantastic in a thicker, viscous style.

  • 2010 Château Coutet Barsac 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    From a double decanted bottle. Richness and freshness in balance, floral nose, more tropical fruits; palate has great freshness, balance, concentration of fruit but retains its lighter texture. 93-96+

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  • 2010 Château Climens 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Rich, 100% semillon, subtle nose, orange marmalade, showing good complexity; fresh but sweet palate. This is a great sauternes but seems more closed and less expressive than the Coutet today. Has stuffing, but likely needs a lot of time. 90-93

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  • 2010 Château de Fargues 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Richer in style than Coutet, tropical pineapple fruit, slight chlorine and minerality; palate is rich and full bodied but cleans up well in the midpalate with great acidity, fantastic tension on the finish with guava and papaya. This is stellar. 93-96+

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  • 2010 Château de Rayne-Vigneau 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Floral on the nose, tropical fruit; tropical guava but thinner on the midpalate than the other top tier wines in attendance, fresh finish. A great budget wine. 89-92

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  • 2010 Château Doisy-Daëne 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    This has a very unique nose, almost meaty or funky that provides great interest, great spice; palate has great acidity, minerality, full bodied, fresh fruit that is a bit simple in the midpalate, fabulous baking spices and botrytis. Wonderful character in this wine, and it's always one of my budget favorites. 91-93+

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  • 2010 Château Guiraud 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Caramel, papaya; palate has richer style consistent with Guiraud, slightly low acid on the finish with a hint of slight excess alcohol. A solid sauternes, but not one of my favorites. 89-92

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  • 2010 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Bit more alcohol showing than other sauternes, vanilla, lots of ripe fruit; palate lacks concentration of fruit in the midpalate. Again enjoyable for the right price, but this chateau has never ranked as one of my favorites. 90-92

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  • 2010 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Floral on the nose; fresh, concentrated fruit with minerality, slightly bitter towards finish, likely needs time. Very good. 91-93+

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  • 2010 Château Suduiraut 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Oily, orange peel, marmalade; very rich, full bodied, tropical fruits and very viscous. This is an excellent Suduiraut and compares well with recent vintages, and I think it would be great as a stand-alone dessert. Probably doesn't have the acidity to stand up to food pairings in the same way as the Coutet, Climens, or Fargues. 92-94

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Closing

Top wines:
Chevalier Blanc
Chateau La Conseillante
Chateau Lascombes
Chateau Leoville Barton
Chateau Leoville Poyferre
Chateau Clerc Milon
Chateau Pichon Baron

Top Sauternes
Fargues
Coutet
Climens (secondary to the two above)

This event was a lot of fun, though it was harder to evaluate this year than last year. This will require some revisiting after 4-5 years.

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