Colicchio & Sons, New York
Tasted Friday, March 08, 2013 by drwine2001 with 298 views
What a wonderfully arranged event and much less overwhelming than the Grand Tasting the following day. Sorry folks, I missed some great wines along the way, but this was all my palate and back could tolerate over 2 hours.
It's clear that this cuvee has the potential to be at least excellent if you can tolerate a fair thwack of oak in your Chablis. It lacks the focus and drive of the very best Grand Crus, though.
Surprisingly good 2009, others not top tier
It was pretty bold to show these wines, which were by far the oldest set in the tasting, red or white. One big hit (1995), one miss (1990), and one teetering (1999) from a vintage that has never been my favorite for Chablis.
These wines are just a tour de force in terms of texture and balance.
Very disappointing given the potential of Perrieres and the Lafon reputation, and the 2003 was a pretty odd choice to show.
I understand why they sequenced them this way, but unfortunately, the progression was from excellent to woody and overblown.
One of the biggest surprises of the weekend was how stunningly the younger vintages of this wine showed-a big contrast to the 2004.
Except for the 2006, the others were too young, too tight, too funky. Not a good display at all.
More gentle and less strict than I had expected, but the 2009 did not show nearly as well as it did a year ago.
Only the 2007 had that really lean Corton style; the other 2 vintages were fairly forthcoming.
Beautiful set of wines, completely true to the character of the respective vintages.
Oooh, great 2009 here.
Not close to the level of the Eugenie Clos Vougeot.
You get some of the essential Fourrier style here (especially in the 2009), but these wines don't hold a candle to his Gevreys. Another curious choice to show at this prestigious tasting.
I've never understood or appreciated this producer, and this set of wines didn't help at all.
Not bad but none of these were as good as the 2010 RSV that was shown the next day.
I always have high expectations for Dujac, and these fell somewhat short, although the '07 was attractive.
Another producer where I've never experienced the magic, and so it went with these Latricieres.
What a way to finish! These were the best set of wines in the tasting, and the 2007 was not only the most unforgettable wine of the day, but it was head and shoulders above anything else I've tasted from this lighter vintage. Of course, the '05 will also be very great, but it's going to take another 30 years to get there. My goodness, is anyone in the region making better wine than Roumier right now? Bravo!!
Hard to draw broad conclusions from this limited swath of wines, but a few thoughts on the vintages going back to 2005 based upon the wines tasted today:
2009-Maybe not as terminally ripe as they seemed last year, but it will take some time to sort these wines out.
2008-Wildly variable, ranging from undrinkable to classic, full of aromatic finesse, and superior to the 2 bracketing vintages.
2007-Often lovely overperformers (okay, maybe I'm still biased by the mind blowing Roumier) and a good choice for a lighter vintage that is drinking well now.
2006-Easy to criticize for their frequent loose structure and feel, but at the same time, lots to them and often very generous, tasty, and open.
2005-The tasting was in New York, so I'll just use the colloquial "Fuhgedaboudit" for a good, long while with most of these wines.