- > Mad for Magnums
Mad for Magnums
Ai Fiori - New York NY
Tasted Wednesday, April 24, 2013 by Burgundy Al with 709 views
Introduction
Zachys once again sponsored their almost annual magnum dinner with many of the same great people in attendance, bringing some more great magnums.
Flight 2 - Some whites with first course (3 Notes)
2009 Didier Dagueneau Silex 90 Points
France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé
From magnum. Modest fruit aromatic start with spice hints. Mineral driven palate, enjoyable and energetic but not at the level of the finest Dagueneau from prior vintages.
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2000 Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
From magnum. Fresh apple and pear aromas, modest spice. Same fruit flavors, some lemon on finish. Very precise and lean, incredibly elegant start to finish.
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1997 Etienne Sauzet Montrachet 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
From magnum. Huge spice, slightly mature but quite age appropriate for a 1997 Grand Cru. Very lush fruit with an intense start, moderate middle and ok length. Again at least as much spice as fruit on palate. Drink up in next few years. I recall this was better, more intense and more persistent when last tasted 2-3 years ago.
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Flight 3 - Some interesting older wine (3 Notes)
1953 Château Gruaud Larose 90 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
From magnum. Intriguing forest floor and tobacco aromas with lingering black fruit. Less overall appealing flavors, somewhat simple and less support for its earthy character. Slightly drying finish. Perhaps 93 point aromas, 85 point flavors.
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1969 Louis Latour Corton-Grancey 80 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
From magnum. Aromas of old Burgundy but somewhat nondescript. Slightly dirty flavors, rather barnyardy. Got slightly shrill once in glass 15-20 minutes.
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1983 Mount Eden Vineyards Pinot Noir 88 Points
USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
From magnum. Interesting aromatic start with lots of mature black fruit, background meaty spice and lots of earth. If served blind, I probably would have thought this Old World Syrah. Palate was then clearly more New World in character, also showing charming advanced fruit, even if not classically Pinot Noir to me.
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Flight 4 - Red Burgundy (4 Notes)
2001 Bouchard Père et Fils La Romanée
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Romanée Grand Cru
From magnum. Meaty, dense black fruit aromas with faint spice hints. backward and not very forthcoming on either nose or palate. One of the more controversial wines of the evening, but I think everybody was right...great raw material, concentration and potential, but tonight it was not particularly accessible and is at least a decade away from really showing well. Tough to assess.
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2001 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Romanée St. Vivant 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
From magnum. Best showing I can recall for this wine. Lots of Chinese five spice aromatic start with plenty of ripe black fruit. Large, ripe and forward black fruit on palate, with flavors slightly less exciting than its aromas. Others liked this more than I did tonight.
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2001 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 89 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
From magnum. Lean and tart red cherry aromas with modest spice. Similar flavor profile on palate with some assertive acidity and sharp edges.
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1990 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
From magnum. Very ripe black fruit aromas with lots of spice as well. Similarly ultra ripe flavors give this a slightly off-center, top-heavy character. Very 1990 at its best and worst.
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Flight 5 - More red Burgundy (2 Notes)
1996 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin Flawed
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
From magnum. Black fruit and background spice but with a slightly dirty, earthy edge that didn't come across as correct. Others disagreed but I thought this was slightly corked, given how this wine has previously shown.
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2003 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
From magnum. Lush, forward blackberry, black cherry and plum aromas with sweet spice, dark chocolate. While I could have been convinced this was New World Pinot Noir based on its aromas, the balance, acidity and minerality on palate was beautifully and charmingly Grand Cru Burgundy, even with all the prominent ripe black fruit.
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Flight 6 - Bordeaux (3 Notes)
1979 Château Margaux Flawed
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
From magnum. Leaner fruit than I'd expect, slightly stripped, slightly corked.
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1982 Château Latour Grand Vin 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
From magnum. Cassis, black currant, tobacco aromas with subtle spice support. Great balance overall, with a flavor profile matching the aromas. Really completely charming and harmonious vs the last time I had this wine from a bottle that showed almost no evolution or maturity.
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1996 Château Mouton Rothschild 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
From magnum. Huge fruit driven nose with blackberry, currant and some liqueur hints. Lots of incredibly power and concentration with structure that is nicely in balance. Charming spice emerging on long finish.
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Flight 7 - Then some Chave appeared (1 Note)
1999 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
From magnum. Dense black fruit, ripe and powerful but a slightly reserved, backward character. Firm and tannic today, this certainly needs more cellar time, particularly in this 1500 format.
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Flight 8 - And of course d'Yquem with dessert (1 Note)
1971 Château d'Yquem 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
From magnum. Apricot, orange peel and candied nut aromas. Very forward and lush start with an incredible pop. Great balance. Moderate length.
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1993 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune 93 Points
France, Alsace
From magnum. Slightly tropical fruit aromas with lots of petrol character and a bit of lychee. Lush, ripe, forward and powerful on palate with a huge spice element start-to-finish. Definitely shorter and less interesting when revisited 4 hours later at the conclusion of dinner.
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1989 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut 93 Points
France, Champagne
From magnum. I'm not always a fan of 1989 Champagne but this wine really outperformed my expectations, much like it did at the same magnum dinner in 2010. Lots of very ripe stone fruit aromas with plenty of toasted brioche character, then somewhat similar on palate but with the verve and energy that keeps everything from seeming soft. Long and incredibly elegant.
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2004 Henri Boillot Montrachet 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
From magnum. Not quite as exciting as I recall from a 750 this past summer. This magnum came across as slightly backward and reductive, much tighter and less forthcoming but at the same time still showing lots of protruding new oak spice. No question there is lots of great raw material here, but based on this magnum I would hold for another few years for greater harmony and integration.
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