United Cellars Grand Bordeaux Tasting 2013
Royal Automobile Club, Macquarie Street, Sydney
Tasted Thursday, May 9, 2013 by chatters with 885 views
Introduction
V.expensive treat (for me) tasting laid on by United Cellars who, they say, wish to compete with the UK big boy wine merchants (BBR, N&P, FRW etc). All wines were stated as ex-chateau. They were double decanted about an hour before we arrived and then poured whilst we waited.
Apparently the other wines were double decanted in the same way.
Flight 1 - Bordeaux First Growths (6 Notes)
yes, yes, it was missing petrus but I wasn't complaining. The Latour, haut brion, margaux and mouton were my favourites (with latour being the best of these and others all having attractive attributes that merited a bit more time with). The other two, though...hmm. Either way it was infanticide. None of these wines were really showing many tertiary characteristics and could all do with a few more years to do anything.
Flight 2 - Other 05 Bordeaux (18 Notes)
bit of a mixed bag with some trying too hard (Pontet Canet, Vieux Chateau Certan?) and some not trying enough (cantermerle, d'armailhac). The Lascombes was, for me, the most approachable. All of these, though, tasted a bit on the young side.
Closing
Well, what a night. The first growths was a proper sit down but still elbows at dawn and, after tasting them, we were hurried off to try the other 05's downstairs. In all honesty I feel that the wines, for the most part, were probably still a bit on the young side for my palate and I would have preferred to spend some time with them seeing how they evolved. no matter.
The other 05's were equally interesting but the drop in sheer muscularity, weight and intensity of flavour as well as, more importantly, balance between these and the first growths was more than tangible. The Lascombes was the stand out purely on the basis of it's balance and elegance. This was also a bit more upright elbows and ladies with too much perfume on...
2005 Château Cheval Blanc
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Ruby, rim fade, medium intensity, coloured tears. Medium intensity aromas of ripe blackcurrant tending to subdued Ribena notes, slight pencil shavings, herbaceous - slight pyrazine, slight dusty quality, biscuit and spice. In the mouth the wine is thick, dense, chewy, savoury, charred almost burnt in fact. Some black almost prune fruit, bit warm, but the fruit carries and carries. Tannins are noticeable but fine. Well made but not for me.
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2005 Château Haut-Brion
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Ruby, rim fade, bright with considerable tears. High intensity aromas of meaty, savoury blackcurrant with a touch of bramble. Very slight alcohol heat on the nose, slight touches of leather, bacon fat, cold meats. In the mouth the wine is massive, savoury with subdued black fruit- huge mouthfeel; just plain thick. ridiculously long finish. Still very young, just keeps giving. Some herbs, without being overtly intrusive, medium plus tannin, medium plus acid...lovely. Come back in 5-10 years?
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2005 Château Margaux
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Purple core, ruby rim, thick and dense legs. Medium plus aromas of biscuit, blackcurrant, meaty, violets and perfumed, v.slight mint fresh some meaty quality. Touches of cream and vanilla as well. In the mouth blackcurrant is to the fore, medium plus acid, medium plus tannin, linear - less thick in the mouth, slight spice, slight alcohol warmth but not intrusive. The wine finishes savoury; there is an initial big fruit punch but then drops slightly and carries long. Nose better than mouth at this juncture but still very good...I'd suggest that a fair whack of time is required.
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2005 Château Mouton Rothschild
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Deep ruby with purple highlights and long slow legs. Medium intensity aromas of ripe blackcurrant, slight biscuit, slight caramel, cedar, slight spice, quite muted initially but opens in the glass with fruit, cream, ripe herbs and cedar becoming more pronounced. In the mouth the wine is incredibly smooth, black currant fruit tending to cassis, slight spice, medium plus acid chases the fruit, gentle surprisingly subtle long warm finish with very slight anise. Just wonderful.
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2005 Château Lafite Rothschild
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Deep ruby, clear and bright, slight rim fade. Medium intensity with subdued fruit, biscuity quality, slight cedar, surprisingly muted, with agitation it opens to cassis, slightly warm on nose with charred notes. In the mouth the wine is savoury, spicy and a tiny touch of farmyard, black fruit, quite light in the mouth, fine, very slightly talcy, tannic grip, slight alcohol warmth. Bit closed. I'm assuming it's in its dumb phase.
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2005 Château Latour Grand Vin
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Dense and deep ruby coloured with a tiny touch of rim fade. High intensity aromas of blackcurrant, cherry violet, vanilla, slight bacon fat, meat, cedar poking through, spice, lots going on here...In the mouth medium plus acid, blackcurrant to the fore, spice, power, balance, massive mouthfeel grows, slightly warm but integrated. notes of cedar as well here. rich and creamy. Goes forever. Even though this is a puppy it's pedigree shines through. Wine of the night for me. Profound. Shockingly good.
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