2013 Wine Media Guild dinner

SD26, NYC
Tasted Monday, June 3, 2013 by cooberp with 532 views

Introduction

My first time at this event; a very nice mix of writers and trade people. The restaurant's air conditioner was broken, so we were all sweltering and the wines were probably not served at optimal temperature. There was a champagne and a white to start, but I skipped them in a vain effort to preserve my palate. The serving order was pretty much random. We only had one decanter and 2-3 glasses each, so each bottle was opened, poured into the decanter, and then immediately served around the table. That put wines that required extended aeration at a clear disadvantage. We had four courses: baby octopus, a baked egg, beef cheeks or sea bass (I took the beef), and a dessert I can barely remember. Thanks very much to Mark Golodetz for the invitation.

Flight 1 (9 Notes)

  • 1970 Château Magdelaine 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Drinking very nicely and younger than its years. Bright, almost sweet red currant fruit is the primary note, complemented by cedar and brandy. Very light in the mouth. Might confuse this for old traditional Rioja blind.

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  • 1985 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 90 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley

    From double magnum. Nose of sweet redcurrant fruit and baking spices. Structure resolved. Reminds me of Musar. Old World style.

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  • 1970 Château Montrose 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    Most potent nose so far. Cassis on all cylinders and a hint of volatility. But this is not pleasant to drink, as the acid becomes overpowering by the midpalate and cuts off the fruit entirely.

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  • 1985 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Most complex nose so far. Red currant, tobacco, smoke and leather, and a hint of barbecue. Nice acidity; wants food.

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  • 1985 Château Cheval Blanc 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Fat, plush, warm, intoxicating nose offering blackcurrant, flower petals, earth, and cedar. Outstanding powdery mouthfeel coats every corner of the palate. Lingers after swallowing. No hard edges, nothing I'd like to see more or less of. Consensus WOTN in a stacked lineup. Made sure I was last to leave so I could help myself to the dregs of the bottle. Apparently I really, really love Cheval Blanc.

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  • 1999 Maison Leroy Beaune 1er Cru Bélissand

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

    Must and varnish obscure the aromatics. Florals, cinnamon, and maraschino cherry are lurking, but this is rather biting--I'm not sure if that's alcohol or exaggerated acidity. Given the vintage/terroir/pedigree, I suspect this is either not a correct bottle or needs more time in the cellar, but I'd rate it about an 86 for current drinking.

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  • 1989 Château La Conseillante 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    This bottle was a bit more primary and redder-fruited than my previous one (which fellow taster dzop astutely recognized as more advanced than it should have been). Nonetheless, I recognized the ripe fruit, lush mouthfeel, and baking spices from the prior tasting. Nice long finish, and benefited from the beef still at the table when it came out. I need to try this outside the context of a big tasting so I can focus on it.

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  • 1982 Bodegas Alejandro Fernández Ribera del Duero Janus Gran Reserva Pesquera 87 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

    Tasted at the end of a long night when my palate was tiring, but I think I still had a beat on this one. Lots of black olive on the nose and some cassis. Musty. Clips off at the midpalate, and the texture is a bit unctuous. Sour finish. A disappointment.

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  • 1987 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    This bottle was apparently far, far more backwards than some of the others recently reviewed on CT. This was brutally tannic, leaving the palate so dry that it was hard to pick up anything else at all except some vague dark fruit. I'd have guessed this was 3-4 years old from a structured vintage. Cellar this and hope it comes around before you die.

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