First Dinner in Burgundy

First night in Burgundy, first dinner at Johan's Bistro de l'Hotel. Great to have this wonderful Bresse chicken.

• 2007 Morey-Blanc Meursault 1er Cru Bouchères 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Very classically styled and lean aromas, lots of citrus and green apple. Identical on palate with modest spice at best. More textural and mineral driven than fruit driven, this is a charming and interesting wine, classically Burgundian in the leaner mode of best 2007s.

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• 2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Decanted 20 minutes before serving. Very intriguing wine. Started as very forward, borderline lush even with some tropical hints. This tightened up quickly on palate with more lean notes, finishing with big, large scaled fruit but behind lots of acidity and minerality. Good today, very interesting longer term potential 2020 forward.

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• 2008 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Le Poruzot-Dessus Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Very surprisingly, this was very evolved and seemingly past its peak already. If served blind, I'd have thought 10 years older.

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• 2001 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Open approx one hour before serving. Refined black fruit aromas, subtle and just starting to show some evolution. Elegant and refined flavors with lots of acidity and fine tannins. Flavors stayed consistent with more time in glass but finish got longer. This should drink well to 2020.

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• 1983 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  From magnum, this was also sent over by the very generous next table. Sensational aromatic start with cooked porcini, leather and evolved black cherry aromas. More earth flavors than fruit, this wine is at a great place today and went perfectly with egg served with fresh summer truffles. This magnum probably hadn't moved from bottling until tonight, since Eric Rousseau was at that generous table and there was no label on this bottle.

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• 1988 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  From magnum, sent over from the very generous next table. Lovely Vosne Asian five spice-driven start, subtle floral notes and mature red fruit. Palate is slightly more evolved, again showing lots of spice, at least as much mushroom flavors as red fruit. Like many 1988s, tannins are a bit stern, giving this a slightly drying finish.

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• 2007 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Mature, ripe black fruit aromas with some spice hints, probably less spice I would normally expect from Meo Boudots. Similar on palate, very forward and balanced start-to-finish, again fairly advanced. Slightly more mature than I expected, particularly compared to a Meo 2007 Murgers from a month or so ago.

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• 2009 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

  Another bottle shared with our table by the guests at the next table (thank you, M. Hervet!). Lots of powerful and ripe black fruit, but with enough spice and grace to show balance start-to-finish on both nose and palate. Big and robust, but with the structure to make this accessible already today. Probably the 5th or 6th time i have had the good fortune to try this stunning young Corton and hope I can keep trying it periodically for as long as I keep drinking wine.

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• 2001 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Really sensational, my Wine of the Night in a great first night in Burgundy. Red cherry and strawberry aromas, slightly mature with some reduced mushroom notes, plenty of licorice and cloves in support. Same moderately mature red cherry flavors, great textures and balance throughout. Very long and impressive in every way.

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