Lunch (Somewhere) in Europe
Not Burgundy
Tasted Sunday, June 30, 2013 by Burgundy Al with 321 views
Introduction
Lunch was a (short?) trip away from Burgundy at a restaurant I am not at liberty to disclose with (because of?!) an exciting list of old Burgundy and Bordeaux. Naturally we ordered Burgundy.
1976 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Popped and poured. sensational old Burgundy aromatic start, with lots of mature cherry, well cooked mushrooms and some floral elements. Similar flavors, just lightly less complex on palate vs. nose. Picked up some weight and depth after open an hour+, but then dropped off on palate after open 3 hours.
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1974 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
An absolute treat from a bottle that had most likely not moved since release. Very pale tea-like color, which was incredibly misleading (but color tells you so little for Burg). Elegant forest floor aromas with enticing dried herbs. Earthy and surprisingly robust on palate, this was shockingly great for the vintage at almost 40 years old.
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1984 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin 86 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
From magnum, popped and poured. Slightly past its peak. Some fruit hints but really mostly earth with spice hints on nose and palate. Peaked shortly after open, then gradually shortened and became less interesting.
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2001 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Open and given a little air before serving. Started surprisingly musty and just moderately attractive. This took awhile to unfold, but after approx 90 minutes more fresh black fruit emerged with some good gamy notes. More ripe black fruit flavors also emerged with a forward, ripe character and lots of density and spice I'd associate with well prepared Boeuf Bourguignon.
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1988 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Clos Vougeot 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Popped and poured. Lots of power and density but also firm structure that couldn't come from a very ripe vintage. Very good intensity and meaty black fruit with moderate spice. Held firmly and consistently into the late evening, so I'm confident this wine is built to last.
Served blind. I correctly identified the decade, then was told the vintage, then correctly identified the producer (from the 5 or 6 top producers well represented on the wine list).
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1986 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Clos Vougeot 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Popped and poured. Very similar to the Roumier 86 Bonnes Mares with which we started lunch. Lots of aromatic charm and complexity, followed by good flavors that are age appropriate, just less exciting than the nose might have implied. Good density, moderate length and finish.
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1982 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Clos Vougeot 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Very charming and elegant. Much less intense than its counterparts from 1986 and 1988 also opened today. More interesting texturally, with a good combination of energy, handsome sous bois and some lingering red fruit. Impressive for the vintage, certainly this bottle benefited from having most likely remaining unmoved since release.
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