Dee Vine 2005 Germans

As usual, Dee Vine's monthly tasting was worth the trip, offering a chance to try newly released 2005s, which mostly were OK, but also a fascinating sparkler.

• 2005 Schloss Vollrads Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken

  Germany, Rheingau

  $20, 11.5%. Small lemon nose, grapefruite palate, simple. Good.

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• 2005 Schloss Vollrads Riesling

  Germany, Rheingau

  $16. Sweet-Tart, again with the simple. Medium length finish redeems it somewhat. Good+.

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• 2005 Von Hövel Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  $15.50. Rich, broad, needs a bit of acid but this one is at least interesting. Those who don't like acid would enjoy it even more than I did. Good+.

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• 2005 Grans-Fassian Riesling

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  $14. Nearly dry. Like the Vollrads, rather monochromatic grapefruit, no pizzaz. Absolutely no faults in these wines. Good.

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• 2005 Grans-Fassian Piesporter Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  $16.50. Melon, open and friendly, Good+.

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• 2005 Schloss Vollrads Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Rheingau

  $18.50. Spritzig. Floral nose, crystalline, pretty, good acid. Finally, something that's my style. However the value is not as good as I would like. Very Good.

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• 2005 Schloss Schönborn Hattenheimer Nußbrunnen Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Rheingau

  $15. Whoosh! One of the first wines I've had that's all middle, no entry or finish. It's literally not there, suddenly present for a moment, then gone. Weird. Good.

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• 2005 Schloss Schönborn Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Rheingau

  $15. Sulphurous. Rich for a Kabinett, but marred by an alcoholic burn. Good+.

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• 2005 Schloss Schönborn Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Rheingau

  $17.50. Straightforward pollen and melon, medium finish. Good+.

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• 2005 Von Hövel Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  $19.50. Sweet, light on its feet, melony, good grip. Very Good.

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• 2005 Schloss Vollrads Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Rheingau

  $26.50. Sweet. Sweet-tarty, grapefruit. The additional sugar helps. Good+.

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• 2005 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Rheingau

  $57. There is some greatness here, with a longer finish it would be excellent. Rarely does a wine soar from sweet to tart and back, practically telling a story. Of course, for sixty bucks, it should tuck you in at night. Very Good+.

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• 2005 Von Hövel Kanzemer Hörecker Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  $71. Apple cider, sweet and fun, finishes short for an Auslese. Just Good+.

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• 2003 Sekthaus Solter Spätburgunder Brut Rosé

  Germany, Rheingau

  12.5%, $16. L-NO. 04/1. 100% spätburgunder/pinot noir from Solter's estate holdings. (I think Dade said he has 2 hectares?). While Herr Solter makes Sekt on contract for numerous growers in the Rheingau, this is his from grape to bottle. Nearly orange in color. Lovely, potpourri aromas, vinous, with tiny bubbles. A hint of dirty barrel (another taster said it was "dirty"), but this sparkler tastes like a real wine and has great structure to boot. A terrific value! Very Good+.

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• 1993 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  9.5%. A bonus bottle with a less than intact cork and/or fill level, shows all kinds of tertiary aromas, completely mature. Very Good+.

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