I must say I have not always been a fan of these entry-level VC bottlings, and have even panned a couple of bottles over the past few years. However, the two bottles that we had tonight were both surprisingly (and consistently) good. Nothing spectacular mind you, but they came across as very proficient, well-made NV Champagnes, which is not something I would have said or previous releases (many of which ranged from boring to dire). The nose here showed pleasant notes of apples and lemons riding on little bits of yeast and cream. That was picked up on the nicely balanced palate as well, where lemony notes, a touch of apple and perhaps sweeter, peachy suggestions where dripped with a few dollops and cream. A round, fleshy character and nice, gentle mousse made for a good mouthfeel. Decent finish too, with bits of mineral and spice. Unspectacular, but nicely put together - this was a nice accompanaiment to a Cantonese meal. Much better than usual. If they keep producing straight NVs like that, I may well purchase some myself.
A classic Etna blend of Nerello Mascalese (from vines which are more than 100 years old) and Nerello Cappuccio, this was a really good wine that was enjoyed by everyone on the table - novice and wine-geek alike. It had an attractive nose to start of with, showing black-fruited tones seasoned with spice and herb, dried earth and a little whiff of dried flowers. I always thought there was something Pinot-like about Etna Rosso, and the palate here really lived up to that. A tad disjointed and a bit tart when first poured, all it took was a little time and air to settle down into an elegant expresssion of dark fruit - black cherries I thought - all very bright and fresh, wrapped up as it were in well-integrated acidity and really fine-boned tannins. There was a lovely clarity and transperancy to this that one would normally associate only with Burgundy or certain producers in Piedmont. The midpalate was then met by a gentle wash of warm spice and very pleasant, savoury inflections. Quite delicious. There was still a slight grip at the mid-lengthed finish, which showed just the tiniest hint of bittersweet herb alongside a nicely stony, mineral tail. A very characterful, enjoyable wine. Easy to drink, yet enough to hold the interest. My only criticism would perhaps be the slight lack of complexity and depth at the moment, but I think that will come with time in the cellar. This certainly has the structure to age nicely over the next few years or so.
NV Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut 90 Points
France, Champagne
I must say I have not always been a fan of these entry-level VC bottlings, and have even panned a couple of bottles over the past few years. However, the two bottles that we had tonight were both surprisingly (and consistently) good. Nothing spectacular mind you, but they came across as very proficient, well-made NV Champagnes, which is not something I would have said or previous releases (many of which ranged from boring to dire). The nose here showed pleasant notes of apples and lemons riding on little bits of yeast and cream. That was picked up on the nicely balanced palate as well, where lemony notes, a touch of apple and perhaps sweeter, peachy suggestions where dripped with a few dollops and cream. A round, fleshy character and nice, gentle mousse made for a good mouthfeel. Decent finish too, with bits of mineral and spice. Unspectacular, but nicely put together - this was a nice accompanaiment to a Cantonese meal. Much better than usual. If they keep producing straight NVs like that, I may well purchase some myself.
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2006 Benanti Etna Serra della Contessa 92 Points
Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
A classic Etna blend of Nerello Mascalese (from vines which are more than 100 years old) and Nerello Cappuccio, this was a really good wine that was enjoyed by everyone on the table - novice and wine-geek alike. It had an attractive nose to start of with, showing black-fruited tones seasoned with spice and herb, dried earth and a little whiff of dried flowers. I always thought there was something Pinot-like about Etna Rosso, and the palate here really lived up to that. A tad disjointed and a bit tart when first poured, all it took was a little time and air to settle down into an elegant expresssion of dark fruit - black cherries I thought - all very bright and fresh, wrapped up as it were in well-integrated acidity and really fine-boned tannins. There was a lovely clarity and transperancy to this that one would normally associate only with Burgundy or certain producers in Piedmont. The midpalate was then met by a gentle wash of warm spice and very pleasant, savoury inflections. Quite delicious. There was still a slight grip at the mid-lengthed finish, which showed just the tiniest hint of bittersweet herb alongside a nicely stony, mineral tail. A very characterful, enjoyable wine. Easy to drink, yet enough to hold the interest. My only criticism would perhaps be the slight lack of complexity and depth at the moment, but I think that will come with time in the cellar. This certainly has the structure to age nicely over the next few years or so.
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