Mostly Rieslings at home

• 2000 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Spectacular wine, and textbook Raveneau, showing precision, depth and length. Loads on minerals and seashells, saline, citric and a bit of mint. Evolved favorably throughout the night. This can hold on.

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Chestnut soup

• 1997 Prager Riesling Smaragd Trocken Weissenkirchnen Klaus 92 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  Nice golden color, steely, stoney and powerful. Dense fruit and balanced acidity. Lovely.

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• 2001 Weingut Josef Jamek Riesling Smaragd Klaus 93 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  My first taste from a 3-pack purchased on release. Good muscle but not muscle-bound, quite lively for it's depth of flavors. Peachy and citrusy with lively mineraly acids. Fully mature, yet in no danger of receeding.

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• 2008 Weingut Josef Jamek Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten 92 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  Verging on a darker hue of yellow. Powerful and pungent, with excellent balance between the citrus fruit and racy structure. Delicious as it is now, this is still rather youthful and can get better.

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Grilled pork loin with a Riesling salt rub

• 2008 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese 93 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Youthful and immature, yet the balance here bodes well for future development. Great "2008" acidity and juicy, tangy fruit. Hold.

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• 1983 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Josephshöfer Riesling Auslese 93 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  A wonderful, mature, honeyed example of mature Mosel Reisling. My 6th taste of this wine in 12 years, and while still great... it seems to be on a slight downslope. Exotic, flamboyant, tropical and racy (although not as racy as my previous samples). This can hold, but I doubt it will get better.

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• 2004 Müller-Catoir Gimmeldinger Schlössel Rieslaner Beerenauslese 90 Points

  Germany, Pfalz

  Rich and honeyed, with a boatload of tropical fruits. Thick and palate-coating, with apricots, papaya and pineapple fruits to go with the sleeker pear and baked apple flavors. Not much minerality, and very sweet. Good, but this needs a bit more acidity to keep the outrageous amount of sweetness in check. Overall, I found this enjoyable, but a bit of a disappointment, given my high expectations.

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