La Paulee Off Grid

This was a nice kickoff event before La Paulee returns to San Franciso next March. The notes represent a fraction of what was poured; I tasted selectively and completely skipped all of the 2011 Beaujolais and the Chalonnais table.

• 2011 Céline & Laurent Tripoz Mâcon-Vinzelles Les Morandes

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Vinzelles

  Lighter style. Generic Chardonnay.

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• 2010 Fabrice Larochette Pouilly-Fuissé Les Robées

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Scents of butter and earth. Medium weight, lactic. Nice wine.

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• 2009 Domaine André Bonhomme Viré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Viré-Clessé

  Medium yellow. Rich and broad. Some popcorn and toasty oak. Not too exotic, good acidity and length. A really good, full throttle Macon.

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• 2010 Deux Montille Pouilly-Fuissé

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Classy feel, depth and minerality. Much tighter and precise than most of these wines.

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• 2010 Domaine Cheveau Pouilly-Fuissé Vers Cras

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Rich and very toasty. Heavy handed wood treatment swamps whatever else is there.

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• 2011 Domaine Robert-Denogent Saint Véran Les Pommards Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Saint Véran

  Chalky underpinning, lemony fruit, bright acidity and good structure. Excellent and probably the most restrained wine of the group.

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• 2010 Domaine Sainte Barbe Viré-Clessé Thurissey

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Viré-Clessé

  Very light red with faint red fruit. More earth than fruit on both the nose and palate.

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• 2012 Domaine Chignard Fleurie Les Moriers

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie

  Good depth of color. Crisp, focused wine with rising sappy black cherry fruit and an anise edge. Denser than the usual Fleurie.

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• 2012 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie

  Medium red. Smooth, elegant red fruit of perfect ripeness complemented by some herbs. Long, sappy and tannic. This balances airiness with excellent concentration. A beauty and a Beaujolais for the Burgundy afficionado.

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• 2011 Pierre Morey Bourgogne-Aligoté

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté

  Light. Pretty neutral aromatics and flavors now.

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• 2011 P. Dubreuil-Fontaine Père & Fils Bourgogne Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

  This has admirable mouth feel and vibrant orange scented fruit in a middle weight package. Very good at this level.

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• 2010 Alain Gras Saint-Romain Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Romain

  Dense and chalky. Impressive weight and depth, fine acidity. Quite an accomplishment for St. Romain.

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• 2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru

  Seductive feel, mouth carressing citrus. Perfectly ripe without any sweetness.

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• 2010 Mongeard-Mugneret Savigny-lès-Beaune

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune

  Deep color. Black fruited, lean, high acidity, some anise. Needs time and/or air.

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• 2009 Maison Leroy Chorey-les-Beaune

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chorey-les-Beaune

  Ripe berry-like cherry fruit. Light to medium weight but packs a punch with some texture, good length and a lovely dusting of soil on the finish.

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• 2012 Régis Bouvier Marsannay

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Medium color and weight with some sappiness. Good mix of black and red fruit. Pretty civilized for a Marsannay.

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• 2010 Domaine Michel Gros Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits

  Light color. Red fruit. Tangy like a Savigny.

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• 2011 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges Le Petit Arlot

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges

  Gamy nose. Light color. Medium weight. Crackling, tart red/black fruit and smoke. Not nearly as overburdened by wood as many Arlots I've had. Very good.

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• 2010 Domaine Arlaud Chambolle-Musigny

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

  Attractive nose of faded roses and strawberry fruit. Medium weight, solid acidity, some obvious wood and earth at the end.

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• 2009 Domaine Maume Gevrey-Chambertin

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Pale color. Earthy and light with an equal mix of delicate red fruit and soil. Gentle tannins. Completely clean and not a bit overripe. Very typical Gevrey village and much more satisfying than many older, funky bottles of Maume.

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• 2011 Domaine de la Cadette Bourgogne Vézelay

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Vézelay

  Open and friendly. Good texture and nice acidity at the end.

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• 2011 Domaine de la Cadette Bourgogne L’Ermitage

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Light, earthy and inconsequential.

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• 2011 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Medium weight. Good balance of ripe and saline elements. I like the balance.

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• 2011 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Sulfur nose. Thin feel, muted flavors. Not too much going on with this now-completely stunted by sulfur.

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• 2011 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Some sulfur along with white flowers and lemon oil. Lean and closed on the palate, again probably subdued by the sulfur at this point.

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• 2006 Maison Albert Bichot Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot Domaine Long-Depaquit

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Medium yellow, middle weight. Round without being exotic and very well structured for a 2006. However, it lacks Grand Cru intensity.

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• 2009 Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots Réserve de l'Obédience

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Rich nose with toasty oak. Lush and glyceral but not overripe. There is some salinity underneath, but I think I might mistake this for a Cotes de Beaune if I were to taste it blind.

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