Champagne Tasting at Gordon's
Gordon's Fine Wine & Liquors
Tasted Saturday, December 7, 2013 by Benj with 621 views
Introduction
I find Champagne to be the hardest wine to justify buying. It is phenomenally expensive compared to most other wine styles and most people buy it for symbolic reasons rather than taste. Given the number of delicious sparkling wines to be found for considerably less money in the Loire, Alsace, and particularly now California, it is increasingly difficult to see any reason to buy Champagne at all if you have a thin wallet (or other things you need to spend your money on).
Anyway, two wines from this tasting that for me would be worth it for a bottle or two:
NV Billecart Salmon Brut if available for <$50
NV Cedric Bouchard Brut Val Vilaine Blanc de Noirs if available for <$60.
NV J Vineyards & Winery Cuvée 20 86 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
95% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Noir. Nose is slightly sweet. Mousse quite fine, palate a touch bitter but has good length. Clearly not from Champagne - aromatically quite different. $30.
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2010 Schramsberg Vineyards Blanc de Blancs 87 Points
USA, California, North Coast
Less expressive than other vintages of the BdB I've tasted. But generally true to character - lighter than the BdN, more citrusy, good acid and warmth, finish is a touch short. $30.
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NV Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé 84 Points
France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
Nose is all strawberries especially candied strawberry. Mousse is moderately coarse. Has the sour-bitter-green vinous taste of unbalanced wine. Not bad but not great. $20
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NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé 90 Points
France, Champagne
50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier. Smooth, round nose, heavy on the yeast but enough zest to keep it fresh. The best thing about this wine is the mouthfeel - the mousse is fairly close to perfect - good longevity, very fine, not too frothy. Good acid and length but I actually vastly prefer the Brut Reserve to the rose. $80+
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NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Réserve 92 Points
France, Champagne
50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier. More expressive on the nose than the rosé at this tasting. Yeastiet, lots of apple especially sour cooking apple, fresh mustard seed, bready and warm. Less acid than the rosé but to my mind more polished. $45-60.
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NV Henriot Champagne Brut Souverain 90 Points
France, Champagne
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. Nose of tar, toast and baked apple. Acid is high - lip-smacking stuff; delicious. 90+, $40
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2005 Henriot Champagne Brut Millésimé 90 Points
France, Champagne
65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay. Very lovely - nose has a great balance of toast and fruit, just a little apple juice-like bit not too much. Quite fine, light mousse, gentle prickle. Excellent but not hugely memorable. $80.
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NV Deutz Champagne Brut Classic 83 Points
France, Champagne
Slightly off-kilter - impressions of acid and alcohol are higher than they should be. Nice enough but not worth buying. $45.
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2007 Deutz Champagne Blanc de Blancs Flawed
France, Champagne
Possible flaw? Animalic nose that smells exactly like a mix between a wet dog and cat food. Extends strongly to palate. A shame - the mousse on this is gorgeous. $75.
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NV Deutz Champagne Brut Rosé 87 Points
France, Champagne
Very tasty but completely unmemorable. $60.
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2007 Paul Goerg Champagne Premier Cru Brut 87 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Light nose, very bubbly (bubbles don't last in the glass), quite coarse mousse, bready (almost stale bread). $55.
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NV Paul Goerg Champagne Premier Cru Brut Rosé 84 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Underwhelming - too sour+bitter on the palate, yeastiness overpowers fruit. Drinkable but little more. $45.
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NV Moutard Père et Fils Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée 86 Points
France, Champagne
Very fruity nose on palate. Excessive notes of pear esters give this a chemical feel but the candied pear is good, as is the acid and the mousse (soft). $30.
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NV Jose Dhondt Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 87 Points
France, Champagne
Tastes more like sparkling Chardonnay than any sparkling Chardonnay I've ever had. Lots of apple, pear and creamy tropical notes (this is 100% malolactic), little evidence of yeastiness, quite oaky. Not really what I want from a Champagne (score reflects this), but excellent for those who want this. $45-50.
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NV Jose Dhondt Champagne Rosé de Saignée Brut 78 Points
France, Champagne
Nice nose of fresh raspberry and some raspberry liqueur. Fruit dominates the nose, again little yeastiness (must like the Blanc des Blancs). However, the palate on this feels totally out of whack - alcohol coming through strongly, poorly integrated flavors. $65.
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NV Camille Savès Champagne Premier Cru Brut Carte Blanche 89 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
From magnum. Medium yeastiness, good acid, good balance, good mousse. Pinot Noir-heavy blend. Excellent. $130 / magnum.
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NV Hugues Godmé Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé 91 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay. Color and some aromatics are derived from mixing in of 5% Pinot Noir base wine. The purest expression of fresh strawberries I have ever smelled on the nose, with all their lovely green and fruity notes. Quite beautiful - great acid-bubbles-fruit-warmth-green balance. $55-60.
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NV Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs Côte de Val Vilaine 93 Points
France, Champagne
The last wine in the tasting after a string of underwhelming Champagnes and with a tired palate, this really shone through. Gorgeous smoky toasty nose almost like a good white Burgundy. Beautiful fine mousse, dry but very full and round. Acid is not too high. This is a delectably supple, elegant Champagne. $60.
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