5th Somewhat Annual Blind Bubbly Dinner

Riverpark, NYC
Tasted Monday, December 9, 2013 by Vinotas with 464 views

Introduction

Almost every year, we hold a Blind Bubbly dinner around the holidays, both to celebrate and to figure out what to buy for the festivities. This year, we held it at Riverpark in NYC, where the food, service and stemware were excellent. Monday free BYO certainly didn't hurt either. But the restaurant was gracious and inviting, and I would happily go back (the fried chicken was insanely good). I did not take notes so these are mainly impressions from the dinner as I was too busy having fun. But isn't that what wine is supposed to be about?

Flight 1 - Flight 1 (3 Notes)

  • NV Benoît Lahaye Champagne Naturessence

    France, Champagne

    Wow, right from the first sniff to the last sip, this was absolutely gorgeous. Lemony minerals filled the air above the liquid, with a crystalline purity that made me want to inject this straight into my veins. Superbly elegant and austere but pretty at the same time, with bracingly tart acidity making it almost painful without food, ending with a long cleansing finish. Then again, I like my Champagnes painful, so YMMV. Wow, I loved this wine.

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  • NV Tarlant Champagne Cuvée Louis

    France, Champagne

    Right off the bat, you can tell this was fermented in oak. As I am somewhat oakaphobe, I found it a little distracting at first, however the purity and intensity of the fruit did help to balance out the wood as it breathed. The nose and palate were extremely similar, with baked apples, yeast, toffee, minerals and slight oxydative notes on a round frame ending in a long, tart finish. I think if this had been tasted alone, I would have liked it a lot more. However, this was alongside some truly killer and pure bubblies, which outclassed it somewhat.

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  • NV Vouette et Sorbée Champagne Saignée de Sorbée Extra Brut

    France, Champagne

    Whoa, not sure what was going on with this bottle. If this is the way it's supposed to taste, then no thanks. If there was something wrong with it, then I might try it again if someone brings it. This smelled of old red wine, candied syrupy cherries and dust. The palate was similar, seemingly slightly disjointed, with more candied cherries wrapped around an earthy core and a mid-length finish. Upon further reflection, I think there might have been a flaw here, but not sure.

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Flight 2 - Flight 2 (3 Notes)

  • NV Marie Courtin Champagne Efflorescence Extra Brut

    France, Champagne

    Ooooh, well hello there gorgeous! Absolutely hedonistically painful to smell and taste, like a beautiful dominatrix taking your taste buds and bringing you to the razor's edge between pleasure and pain. Super tart bright lemony fruits, with something that reminded me of quartz flashing in and out of awareness, with just a hint of yeast, both on the nose and palate. In the mouth, this was like drinking a sharp sword, the stunningly linear frame carrying the fruit and mineral flavors to a long, tart, high-acid finish that seemed to want to strip the enamel off my teeth. LOVE.

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  • NV L. Aubry Fils Champagne Le Nombre d'Or Brut Campanae Veteres Vites

    France, Champagne

    Slightly weird, but not in a bad way, more in an intellectual way. I think all the different grapes that went into this weren't completely integrated with one another, and just needed time to settle down. Yeasty, slightly oxydized, pear fruits and lemon cream vied for your attention. The palate was slightly soft (granted, this was after a super tart Champagne), carrying through to a long finish. Not bad, I would want to try this on it's own and not in the company of other Champagnes.

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  • NV Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules

    France, Champagne

    At first sniff, this offered very pretty white and yellow fruits with hints of red berries wrapped around a core of crystal minerality. These notes carried through to the palate, where a slightly round and rich yet elegantly structured frame lifted them to a long and tart finish. Lip-smackingly good as usual, I am a fan of this wine.

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Flight 3 - Flight 3 (3 Notes)

  • NV Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier Brut

    France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

    Another lovely bubbly. Super clean and crisp nose offers notes of slightly yeasty lemony quartz, with white and yellow fruits in the mix balanced out by a bright acidity (yes, even on the nose, you could tell it was crisp). The rich palate was somewhat linear in a good way, a slightly fat but focused laser beam that brought the flavors together and led them to their eventual long and tart finish. Gorgeous.

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  • NV André Clouet Champagne Un jour de 1911...

    France, Champagne

    Oh man Vive La Difference! Rich and slightly creamy compared to its neighbors, this was also, and more importantly, very pretty. Creamy lemon curd, yeast and yellow apples filled the nose and were copied on the palate, with an elegant yet rounded frame that led to a lip-smackingly delicious and long finish. Quite tasty.

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  • NV Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

    France, Champagne

    Nice, easy to like, but not very complex after all the other bubblies. On its own, it would have probably been excellent, however it as really outshone by all the other Champagnes at the table. Nutty lemony minerals, chalk, creaminess were my only impressions.

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Flight 4 - Flight 4 (1 Note)

  • NV Jean Lallement Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Réserve

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Wow, this offered a stunningly expressive nose of yellow fruits (pears, apples) and light red berries, backed by a super bright minerality and chalkiness. The palate had more of the same, held aloft on an elegant yet rich and slightly round frame (frankly, quite nicely balanced between being a laser beam and being too fat) that ended in a long and crisp finish. Absolutely outstanding, we inadvertently saved the best for last.

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Closing

This 5th edition of our Blind Bubbly Dinner was a rousing success thanks to the generosity of all who attended and to the attention to detail paid to everything by Riverpark. Overall, we were very happy with both the meal and the wines. A few stood out among their peers, and one, the Rose, wasn't very good. As I like low-dosage Champagnes, I liked these both with and without food, though a few folks found them to be too austere without a dish to balance them out. Then again, I like my Champagnes to be painful, so YMMV.
Cheers!

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